Okay, I've had my 90 vert for a week or so now, and I think my 5th and 6th port actuators may be sticking. I only think this because the car doesn't really seem to keep gaining power above 4k rpms. It's not dog slow, but it doesn't keep gaining power like I think it should either. Also, it seems to be a little faster when the engine is cold, versus when it's all warmed up. Oh, and I don't normally condone street racing, but I raced a 94ish civic with the normal ricer mods, and I killed him off the line, but he started to catch up when we got up to 60mph. I know he didn't have a b16/b18/h22 swap, so needless to say I was very upset about the near loss. So anyway....if I grab onto the rods for the ports can I just lift them up, or do I actually have to be driving to make them work? I suppose I'll try the grease trick tomorrow to see for sure if they're opening.

Oh, due to the loss, my car is currently at the muffler shop getting the cats taken off. Hopefully that will result in a few extra horses.

 

Yeah, testing with some white grease is usually the best method for finding out if your 5th and 6th ports are actuating. If they are not, use the search function to see what your options are. There are countless threads about cleaning them, replacing them, and even actuating them without the air pump (electronic method or seperate air compressor).

 

do you guys feel a increasing pull from your engine above 4k rpm's, or does it accelerate at the same rate till you shift?

 

Feels like I get a little bit of a burst after about 4K RPMs. Although, one of the points of an N/A engine is that the power is delivered very linearly. I suppose you should not really tell when the secondaries come online at all; just smooth acceleration. But, because our cars have poor grounding most of the time you will get a jerk or two and then a surge when they finally do kick in.

 

hmm, I need a dyno

 

S5 actuators work in the reverse fashion from the S4's the rods come out instead of retract so the grease won't help you. Also they will only operate when the engine is under load so you won't be able to tell at a standstill just revving the engine.

You'll see a big difference with the cats out.

 

Reading a post too quick = trouble hehe.

 

I thought the s5 ports would open reving the car. Also check your VDI.

IF the ports don't open just reving you can always jumper the solnoied or re-route the vac line (actually pressure) to check and see if the open (s5 only).

 

6-port test
For those with series 5 N/A's, the port actuators push to open, and only under high load.
To test them, T in a pressure gage and blow into the tube to check at what pressure they open.
Then route the tube inside with the gage on the end, and do a test drive to see when they open.
This also works for the VDI.

When they stick, it's usually the shaft & not the internal sleeves.
Just put some penetrating oil where the shaft goes into the LIM.

 

This is how an S5 NA should pull to 70 with the VDI & Aux ports working. (And a duel header)
It was a short turn out, so I had to straighten it out before I nailed 1st.
With 150,000 on the tranny, I have to short shift to 2nd.
Even with synthetic gear oil, 7K will get ahead of the old syncros. So I nail 2nd at 6500 & pull to 70.
video clip link

 

I don't think my car has ever chirped in second.

 

Mine does =) but not just a chirp. mines proted