ok im getting frustrated with this stereo, i come here for help.

Pic1. The only way I can find power. but when cars off, loses memory. (there is no constant wire.)

Pic2. (green= constant wire I ran from battery) witch is connceted to the constant wire from stereo, then red is connected to that other one that gave me power before... and theres no power ..... WHAT DO I DO

 

check your audio fuse. If that doesn't suffice, you could always run some 12ga wire from the battery through a relay switched from the trailing coil pack. you would once again have a switching power with the ignition. Plus... you will rid yourself of one more problematic wiring issue that origins at failng stock wiring...

EDIT: and buy a soldering iron

 

A soldering iron is definately a good recommendation. If you don't know how to use it, its easy to teach yourself.

When you are looking for constant power are you using a volt meter of some sort? (digital or analog will work fine for these wires..)

One of those wires should be constant/ign, if not then as Kenteth said check your fuses. I will take a look at what wire was 12v/ign for my car. I still have the stereo on the passanger seat.

Since my stereo has a built in 53w x 4 channel amp on it I decided to run a new 12v constant line as well as a ground from the battery into the car. Using the origional wires for the defi gagues (still adding in a 1amp fast burn fuse just in case) (something which requires far less power)

Im not sure what kind of stereo you have etc on the power requirements but keep that in mind if you draw alot of current from having a built in amp then you may blow things.

In anycase I will look for a picture of the wires which should be 12v/ign.

The Factory Service manual should have this too...

EDIT:
To quote Icemark. (Hope he doesn't mind)

These wires should help you figure out which one SHOULD have 12v and which SHOULD be ACC/IGN. If neither have it, or one doesn't it is most likely a fuse.

Icemark also said when I searched:

 

lol, wasn't that posted just a few days ago?

 

Those pics are painful to look at...

There is no need to run any wires from the battery. The stock stereo wiring is sufficient to run a head unit from. Even a good modern head unit marked at 4x50W (peak power) is really only putting out 60-70Wrms in total at the most.

Connect the head unit's yellow permanent power wire to the blue wire with the red stripe and the head unit's red switched power wire to the blue wire with the white stripe. Don't join them all together like you've done.

If twisting the wires together is the best you can do you should really leave this job to a professional. If you want to do it properly then either solder those connections or use proper crimp connectors.

 

i'm having the same problem as mentioned. My stereo is not holding the memory function. I believe the battery or "memory" wire is faulty, but when i ran it through a voltameter, the blue/white wire ran a 12 volt constant power...

if i were to run a direct wire from the battery, how would i wire it to a relay?

please help someone ^_^

 

here is a diagram of the stock wire harnesses. It looks like you cut yours already though.

 

my car is an 89 TII, so the harness is actually the S5 harness, but i already bought an aftermarket harness connector, and re-wired the car stereo system.

Anyways, the 12 volt constant wire is connected tightly and the voltameter picks up 12volt constantly (although i am not sure of that now, i'll check it tomorrow ^_^)

But if it is still faulty..... how will i wire the 12 volt from the positive of the battery into a relay, then into the battery (or memory) 12 volt of the aftermarket stereo?

 

where the heck did you find that?

 

i didnt want to touch the stock stuff. so i just bought a harness that use some butt connectors.. i had a screen and dvd player completly wired up and installed in under 45 mins

 

anyone else have pictures how they wired a 12 volt constant from the battery into a relay then into the stereo unit?

 

Nevermind ^_^
i wired the blue/red to the power and blue/white to 12v constant.....

stupid me.....

after using the voltameter, and screwing the mazda shop manual (it was so confusing)
I wired the 12v constant back to blue/red and power back to blue/white

now it works.....

Thanks everyone for the info