Okay I am putting together a TurboII motor for street driving.
I will be using a microtech LT-8, a T-60-1 turbo, and GSL-SE rotors that are milled out for 3mm apex seals.
The apex seals, that's where I am stuck.
So far we have been using stock steel seals on 2mm rotors with past setups, this setup has been done before so I am familiar with it, it will yeild about 400hp at 10 pounds of boost.
But this time I am using some rotors that have already been milled out, why not, thicker is always better, right?
So what is better than what and why?
Is steel better??? or......Is carbon better????
Can I even use carbon apex seals or are they for non turbo applications only?????
Or is it ceramic that are only for non turbo motors????
Any how, what are some of you guys using out there, let me know.
If there are any other posts or write ups on the pros and cons post a link............Thanx

 

non turbo only.

Ceramic is turbo/NA and $$.

Thicker is never better.

 

carbon apex seals are only made for race applications, the carbon seals only last for a few hours of running time before they wear out and do not seal well at idle.

thicker is not always better in a rotary.... stick with 2mm seals if possible, ceramics are the best seals to use but at $2000 a set it isn't necessary unless you are pushing over 500 HP.

 

Yeah so far I am compelled to use the steel apex seals........Hey drago86 why is thinkcer never better, a little info to back up a comment goes a long way, so what exactly do you mean????????????

 

Alot of people have used the RA seals and are very happy with them. Plus the price is excellent.

 

In theory the thicker seals create more friction (since they have more surface area in contact with the housing) and therefor more heat. Also heard they take longer to seat or wear in after a rebuild.

 

They don't seal as well as 2MM seals, they create more friction, and are heavier (which pushes them harder against the housings). Also, they only offer a marginal increase in resistance to detonation.

 

I have 3mm mazda racing seals and this motor is the strongest I have ever owned. Plus the added security that I have more protection incase I get a bad tank of gas. If you are doing a build from scratch is worth doing in my opinion. Just rebuilding to add the seals probably is not worth it.

 

From all I've read I really don't find 3mm seals to be worth it at all. They add marginal extra protection, don't really last that much longer, and if you plan on going above 8 or 9k, or running a bridge/peripheral port they are supposedly not a good idea to use. All this info coming from nopistons.com that I've read, and I trust their judgment and information a lot.

 

i got 3mm on my motor there the RA seals havent had a problem with them yet. and car has around 5k miles on it as we speak
TwEaK

 

RA seals????????
Someone educate me.......What does RA mean???????
Also I have been using GSL-SE rotors in these motor setups for a while now because of the 3mm side seals.......A buddy tried to blow his motor up before he rebuilt it, it was a stock GSL-se, and drove at redline in 2nd gear for about 6 minutes on the highway, it didn't blow.
I know I have read plenty of writeups in the past about how bullet proof the GSL-SE motor is. Like I said before we have been using these rotors for a while, but never before with 3mm apex seals. I got a set and they were milled and ready to go for 3mm seals, wouldn't these make for even more reliability since they're 3mm all the way around now??????????
Remember I am using these in a turboII motor........

 

RA; Rotary Aviation. www.rotaryaviation.com

 

I've heard that that the RA seals kind of warp under heavy detonation and loose compression. But when they cool off they tend to seal up again. Also not breaking as easily as Mazda Seals better chance your housings survive after a problem.

 

When the RA seals warp under heavy detonation it is because they are so strong. Most other normal apex seals would've cracked and broken under the same detonation, but the RA's are so strong they just bend/warp, then after cooling they go back into their place. Pretty nice

 

There is an article where a guy mentions this in RXTuner... guy basically pinged or something running too much boost, lost compression and thought his engine was gone.

Woke up the next morning, turned it over and it ran fine.

Heh, so I've got RA seals going into my rebuild.

If I was running a turbo I'd probably have got the 3mm... of course that would be for my own personal car, knowing all the downsides to them and the upsides.

--Gary

 

I have a set sitting on my desk for when I rebuild my S5 motor.

 

You won't really "have a problem" with them. It's just an unnecessary expense, and an inferior part. There's a reason Mazda went to 2MM seals.