Druken

I'm really sorry for making another thread like this, I've read many many many different threads about deflooding/timing/etc and it has helped a lot. But even though I tried all these methods, I'm still having problems so I thought it is time for me to make my own "help me" thread.

-I have a 91 n/a block that was just rebuilt. I have checked multiple times to see if I routed the vacuum lines correctly, and bought many feet of the silicone hose off of the Mazdatrix website so I know I'm getting the proper materials.
-I replaced all fuel hoses with new "Fuel Injected" hoses with the blue coating on the inside, as well as the fuel filter, from BlackDragonAuto.
-After the vacuum and fuel hoses were put in, I double checked all clamps to make sure they were on tight so nothing would leak.
-I replaced my secondary fuel injectors with 550CC, while keeping the primary injectors 460CC(stock?).
-I still have the rats nest on the block as well as the air pump, for the 5th and 6th ports.
-I purchased a new starter/battery from Kragen for the proper year/model.
-I double checked, if not quadruple checked, all harnesses connections.
-I span the CAS and got clicking from the injectors and spark plugs. I also tested to see visual spark, and I confirmed that I am. I am also getting fuel since I can see it in the 2nd fuel filter, which is connected to the Return Fuel Hose.
-I tried all 4 possible positions for the underdrive pulley, while realigning the CAS every time. Currently the pulley and CAS are aligned with the setup and held idle the longest and sounded the most proper.


-The longest I was able to get the car to hold its own idle, without my help, was for about 10-15 seconds. The engine sounds as though it is constantly grinding really hard, which I don't get... Did I forget to tighten something? While it is at idle, there is a smell as though something is burning... like the clutch or something but the car doesn't move an inch.
-What is weird is that before I could even get the engine to turn over, my tachometer seemed to act like a volt meter, which shows/stays around 12-13k. But after I was able to get it to idle, it stays a little bit past 4k and stays there. I'm getting a really rough idle so I was expecting the needle to jump around a bit, if not around 12-13k but nothing.

Any advice? I can answer any questions that you guys have, get pictures, get videos, and I am willing to try any method I haven't tried yet as well.

My next approach was to try and push start it, to see if the internals need to spin quite a bit in order to build compression.
Please help!

hhn2002

first of all who was it rebuilt by? you or someone else?

random suggestions:
check oil
compression check
put on stock main pulley then retime
pull spark plugs and 02 sensor and check for water
spin front pulley bolt with socket to feel for any irregular resistance.
are spark plug wires and plugs where they are supposed to be?(i.e. L2=lower rear, T1=upper front)
recheck to make sure you've got the cold timing method down pat and no confusion as how to do it exactly.
TPS

good luck

Chuck

iTrader: (2)

Still sounds like a serious vacuum leak to me. Gaskets between the throttle body and the UIM, and between the UIM and the LIM. A wrinkle or small tear in the gasket - vacuum leak. Maybe a torn injector grommet or O-ring.

Druken

-The rebuilt was not done by me, but by someone else who has been rebuilding 13b's for awhile.
-I just bought a case of oil, I was going to drain and refill once again.
-I just placed the main pulley on and timed it (underdrive pulley)
-I'll check for water, but I doubt it since the car has been garaged for a really really long time.
-I'll double check the spark plug wires to see if they are in the right places, the spark plugs and wires are also brand new. I replaced the plugs twice.

-I'll double check for the vacuum leak, but I have a question. Is it safe for me to just use some silicone gasket maker to seal everything up?
-It shouldn't be the injector grommet or o-ring since I got brand new ones from Mazdatrix when I was first putting the engine in.

Druken

Any more suggestions?

meteoro

hmm.... the gas.....


remember REGULAR no more than 95 octans



or your mod`s requiered 98 octans......



:think:

hhn2002

yes you can use a little rtv sealant with your intake gaskets. i dont see any harm in that. have you tried asking your rebuilder and seeing what he thinks? im sure he'll be able to help some.

turbo10th

iTrader: (6)

Maf?

Druken

So I drove the car down the block and back but there was a lot of smoke. It still couldn't hold idle though. So I brought it back into the garage. A lot of fun seeing her outside, but sad to see that it still isn't going right.

Next day, I realized the vacuum hose that connects to the dampener, on the secondary fuel rail, was disconnected so I reattached it. When I tried to start it the battery died so I ended the day with the battery charged on slow, 2A's.

Today, double checked my battery. 100% charged.. which is good. Double checked the vacuum hoses, they all seem connected... which is good. I crank it, a REALLY LOUD grinding noise occurs... my girlfriend would tell me that its around the engine/transmission connection area so I'm thinking it is the starter. But I realized I just replaced the starter with a brand new one. And it would be the 4th time the starter would have been in use. So I look around, I noticed a small oil leak on the floor. I then thought maybe if I put in a quart of oil in, it would maybe lube whatever is grinding. Poured it, spun the engine with a breaker bar clockwise to get the oil all over. Start it again, sounds a little bit better but it still sounds like something is grinding, and what is worse is that it wont even start... AT ALL!

The only thing I changed was the vacuum hose and I charged my battery. Now my car wont turn over. I'm scared to start it because I don't want to cause any damages, even though it sounds like it.

Here is the video I made. I hope it helps solve this situation. Thanks in advance.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UOAOy5Dpy_g

Druken

Okay scratch out my last post.

It turns out it was my starter. I guess it didn't disengage and so it shook so much that the bolt holding it up came loose. I tightened it, and.... IT RAN!! YES!!! IT FINALLY HOLDS IDLE THANK YOU GOD!!!
but...
My brand new starter died... which makes it number 2. It seems that the starter doesn't disengage and the engine is running with the starter still attached, which could be the cause of my tach reading ~5.5k RPM.

How do I get my starter to release itself from the flywheel so that I can stop going to the local auto store to keep buying them. I am almost positive that THIS is the last thing before actually driving my car. Please help.