Yes I searched.

It starts, runs fine with slight throttle assistance, and then starts to cut out, and dies.

I have checked the AFM by unplugging it and plugging it back in. I checked the few vacuum lines that I have. Checked the spark plug wires all tight. Made sure the Tps and whatever that other little sensor is by it is.

What else to note here is that the AFR is 14.1 it seems, but then the fuel pressure regulator is showing 35-39psi.

Here is some extra information.
Fuel Pump rewire
Walboro 255
Rtek 2.1 that I did a ECU reset on then re checked the 550/720 config
fuel filter replaced about a year and half ago
Aeromotive A1000-6
Emissions delete everything
At 2k the boost gauge reads about -20~ ish

I mean I can see if the fuel pump for some reason isnt getting enough voltage but at the same time it seems to be sending just fine.

What let up to this was that I wanted more boost, and since I could manage the fuel with the Rtek I thought I would be set, it ran fine for a little while then something went weird, and it started doing this.

Well I should say that AFR was okay then something went weird, and it was really high AFR(15?) then it would drop if I pressed the throttle to like 10. It seemed like it was all over the place.

And thats when I parked it, finally got the fuel pressure regulator installed and it has been doing the starting,running and doing thing. HOWEVER it did do that too with the stock one before I put the Aermotive in.


Was I an idiot and hook it up wrong?

Any ideas?

 

no?

Here is a video when it loads if that will help.

 

No ideas? No suggestions?

 

where is the black hose going off the regulator?
Also If that is your engine bay,why is the Steel line on the firewall disconnected?That is Brake booster vacuum.Is the engine "nipple" capped?.or what?

 

The black hose off of the regulator is going to the 1 of the 2 lower intake manifold vacuum ports.

The steel line is reconnected currently, just had it off to show the FPR in the picture.

All lines on the side of the throttle body have been capped or rendered useless by turning the throttle body plate around.

 

On a side note, it ran for longer than 5 seconds, but I couldn't drop below 2k or else it would start to go lean and die.

 

There is an RTEK section on the Forum.Have you posted there too?

 

14:1 is too lean without a smog pump, ideally these engines prefer 13:1 to be the leanest point for idle.

for reference, with a smog pump, you could see figures of up to 16.5:1 AFR at idle and be fine.


usually this indicates a remapped/leaned out ECU, vacuum leaks bypassing the AFM or a faulty AFM. all this assuming your fuel pressure reading of 32-40psi is correct.

you can bypass the lean issue by adjusting the Rtek or drilling out the blind plug on the AFM and turning the air bleed screw in to richen up the idle. if it were me i would pressure test the intake, find and fix your vacuum leaks because at least 90% of the time the problem is simply vacuum leaks. leaks will result in a loss of power and overworking the turbo to maintain the same boost level as if there were no leaks, reducing the efficiency of the turbo BUT it usually results in improved fuel economy(strange i know).

 

My favorite question to ask, what changed since it was running smooth? did you just install any mods, or was it running smooth and just start acting up?

 

Well I added my manual boost controller. But that shouldn't have had anything to do with the idle. I was into boost at about 11psi or so and then like it just started to be too rich and then too lean like it has been now.

I kind of masked the problem though. I adjusted my idle screw, though it seems like its really too far in. And then I tried to richen it by adjusting the Rtek however that just made it run super rich under normal driving conditions.

*sigh* Perhaps tomorrow I rill reset the ecu again and see what it does. I just dont know why when adding a bunch more fuel (up to 18%) under the -16~24 range, where it was idle at(1100) and it still 13.9 or so.

And again it starts to die at anything under 1k

Sorry if im scatter brained here, but the vacuums...I cant hear any. And all are accounted for.

Thanks yall.

 

me and you both are having similar issues.

Rotary > Pistons

 

didn't take the injector leads off (an put back in the wrong order) did you ? eg p1 and p2

 

I got my primaries and secondaries put on right


primaries- short leads

secondaries - long leads

Rotary > Pistons

 

a boost/vacuum leak results in a lean condition below 0"Hg and a rich condition when in positive pressure, just saying.

 

No, I haven't touched those since the rebuild. And although I didn't rebuild it, it didn't have an issue until this weird problem came up.

Hmm, well I guess its worth checking. Though I still cant think of any that aren't accounted for.

 

So we did a good ol fashioned propane test and found it to be a nipple on the IC had blew off....

Thanks yall. I was not looking at the IC, But I guess I never boosted at higher than 8psi since the rebuild. At the same time it never flew off before either before the rebuild when I was boost spiking.

Funniest part about it was my friend apparently noticed that but thought that it was supposed to be like that since ......I dunno he thought it was supposed to be that way?

Thanks!

 

boost leaks can be a pain to source, even for the most apt builders leaks can be very difficult to trace. i built pressure testers for all setups just to make life easier.

 

What do u mean by pressure testers? Is that for the vacuum pressure too or is boost pressure different?

 

you can make a pressure tester with some plastic plumbing end caps, a rubber coupler, a few clamps and a tire valve stem with the core removed.

size up the coupler and caps for the intake inlet elbow, drill a hole for the valve stem and pull it through.

install it and pressurize the intake to 10psi wit air pressure from a compressor and spray around the engine with soapy water in a spray bottle.


10psi is a little excessive for an n/a but it does make it easier to spot leaks. disregard a leak at the LIM to center ports on the iron, it won't leak under vacuum-0'Hg load which is why the turbo engines have an additional bolt in that center location. the IAT also is fairly notorious for leaking a small degree, as do the cold start butterflies at the thermowax(it is a metered air leak and meant to be there). on turbo engines i try to seal up every little thing as best possible, including what the factory deemed acceptable.