BlueJ7

I finally got my car to start but it won't stay running . Here's some pics of the engine bay to see if I'm missing something and I have a few things that I don't know what they plug into...if anybody has any suggestions let me know because this is very frustrating!

unsure where the plug on the bottom goes...


what do the black plug by the water pump and the white plug and wire against the radiator hose connect to?<a
a little better view


Is this right?


kind of blurry but what does the exhaust plug connect to, is it the single wire on the previous pic?


what's this( passenger side of engine)


top veiw of engine


Here's a pic under the dash by the passenger side, where does this plug go to

BlueJ7

anybody have any ideas?

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Would thew "exhaust plug" you refer to mean the single wire coming off the oxygen sensor? If so, then no, it doesn't connect to a ground on the upper intake. It connects to the ECU, I'm unsure which pin the wire comes from however.

Thats one of the aux. ports. Its missing its' actuator.

I would simply jumper the yellow fuel pump test connector (yellow, two prong connector with a rubber boot around it, located near right shock tower) with a wire and then try to start the car. Report back afterwards.

BlueJ7

I'll try that today and see what happens

BlueJ7

it still doesn't stay running, the fuel pump is fine. would it be that the fuel has been sitting for about 9 months? and where does the TPS connect to, isn't it a black connector with 6 pins?

cloudx189

iTrader: (3)

Damn i have no idea

BlueJ7

none?

Turbomech

You may wanna check your BAC Valve. Its located next to the upper intake manifold, and is cylindrical in shape.

This thing controls the cars idle in most circumstances. These are electronically controlled via the car's ECU. After being 18 years old and above, many of them fail, and should be replaced.

I replaced mine, and bingo idle is perfect! You can check with a voltage tested to see if the BAC valve is working or not.


Cheers

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

^cleaning it with carb cleaner or something of the sorts would be a cheaper alternative before buying another.

glh-fc

in the fourth pic that you have,thats a ground that should be bolted up to the firewall.not the TB.for the second pic it looks like a plug for the BAC or ACV.can't remember w/c one.good luck.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Check and see if you your Air Flow Meter is Hooked up(AFM).it is a Big connector About Ten pins,and connects near the stock Air Box..if you don't have a Stock air box,and someone's installed a Cone filter,it should be the Metal Thing that the filter is attached to!..if that is not Hooked up,the car will start and Die,continuously.Until it is either Plugged in,or the AFM If Busted,is replaced.

Craiger

iTrader: (1)

The fuel being that old probably isn't helping anything, and the O2 sensor not hooked up probably isn't helping anything either. That being said, thoes two probably aren't to blame for your problem. If you are starting it cold (ie. first thing in the morning) than the idle should shoot right up to 3000 rpm for about 30 sec's (I know the turbo model does that so I assume the N/A does too, but someone else might want to confirm). If it's not doing this than you may have a vaccume leak. Since the emmissions control stuff has been removed you should check for a vaccume leak which sounds pretty likely for what your expirencing.

I would also try starting it up and trying to hold it at about 3000 rpm for a bit of time (30 sec or so). It should sound pretty smooth at 3000rpm, and after a bit of time try to slowely bring it back down to letting the car idle on it's own. If you know someone who can adjust the idle you may want to get them to adjust the idle to around 1500rpm or so untill you have a chance to drive the car again and the motor strengthens back up; it could just be weak from sitting so long without beinf properly stored.