Hi, I have been browsing these forms for months now and i decided to finally join. After not being able to find some answers searching.

My car doesn't like to start until it turns over like 3-5 times and if it's cold it will usaully flood. Any ideas on what it could be? The injectors don't apear to be leaking.

I have already replaced the spark plugs/wires, fuel filter, air filter, tranny fliud. I know that doesn't have anything to do with my starting problem. just wanted to let you guys know whats been done already.

 

Check engine compression to first determine if you have a basically healthy engine so you don't waste your time tracking down a non-existent peripheral problem. If the compression is decent you can then begin the troubleshooting routine found in the factory service manual (link to download in the above FAQ).

 

check vaccum hoses they might be shot

 

When i check the compression does the meter go into the leading or trailing?

 

leading, it says it in the service manual in the FAQ link

 

Doesn't really matter. But keep in mind that the rotors have 3 faces and to do a proper compression test you need to determine: the compression readings on all 3 faces of each rotor, the difference between readings on the faces, and the difference between the compression on the two rotors. Then you need to normalize the readings to compare them with the Mazda specifications. (The FSM explains all that.)

Unless you have a compression tester that will do that for you, which is unlikely, just take a spark plug out of one of the rotor housing, have someone crank the engine over with the gas pedal depressed and listen for 3 even, strong compression puffs--PUFF, PUFF, PUFF--as the rotor spins. Then repace that plug and remove one from the other housing and do the same thing.

If you get the 3 even, strong pulses, chances are your compression is acceptible. But if you get--PUFF, puff, puff--or puff, puff, puff--the chances are your engine compression is bad as the result of apex seal failure.

 

I'm going to check the compression tomorrow.

Could the TPS have anything to do with it? I think its bad because no matter what i do i can only adjust the resistence of A to B at idle none of the other values will change.

A to B
Idle: around 1K.
WOT: 4.65 never changes.

E to D
Idle: .374 jumps up and down.
WOT: 5.86 sometimes higher.

 

As I recall, the TPS has no bearing on the starting routine.

 

Do you think the TPS is bad? Also how do you adjust idle properly?

 

just did the poor mans compression test. Both rotors passed. pulses were strong and consistent.

 

Anyone?