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doesnt matter if its summer or winter but in this case the car has been in my unheated detached garage and hasnt been started in about a month, will also do it if im driving the same day
batter relocated to trunk, 0 gauge to block under hood, 4 gauge right to battery
does same with current full sized 800cca batter that it did with 1000cca, car is always plugged into battery tender
Try running a battery cable to the trans or the Bolt at the starter.(negative)?.
With a "pure source" from the battery(negative from battery to Starter case and Postive FROM battery to Starter) there isn't too much to figure out if there is something else wrong.
I did use the stock Engine fuse block but also had the battery feed the starter when I relocated the battery.
Have a 4 gauge ground from starter to frame, and feed right to starter
Maybe its just a crap starter ?
Had a lifetime gurantee i doubt i have the paperwork for it though but i do think i still have the box
mine used to do that all the time, I went through a few starters and then finally wired up the starter trigger with a relay and it fixed it.
basically the 12V to the starter from the key has to go through a lot of things and it looses voltage this combined with an aging key cylinder not making great contact causes the problem.
If you use the starter trigger instead as a trigger for a relay and give the starter straight battery voltage from the positive post on the starter it's fine.
i sell them for half what pettit does, it's just a basic relay with the proper terminations. actually i think mine is nicer since i use weatherproofed terminals.
although this may be 2 problems, your starter sounds like poop and is turning slow for a new starter with heavy gauge wiring and battery, the screeching noise is a little concerning. the click click vroom symptom is half the time due to failing relays and high resistance in the rather overly complex starter circuit. the booster relay only fixes the latter.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; Nov 28, 2016 at 11:07 PM.
although this may be 2 problems, your starter sounds like poop and is turning slow for a new starter with heavy gauge wiring and battery.
Mine used to do that too.... sometimes it wouldn't crank, sometimes it would crank like crap and barely turn over and sometimes it would be fine. Maybe the starter is being half engaged? I don't even know if that's possible...
Mine used to do that too.... sometimes it wouldn't crank, sometimes it would crank like crap and barely turn over and sometimes it would be fine. Maybe the starter is being half engaged? I don't even know if that's possible...
it is quite possible, if they used too long of a nose bushing and the bendix isn't pushing out all the way it may be allowing the gears to slip sometimes.
I say starter. Have seen many remanufactured starters cause a problem, so unusual for a new starter, but you can always try and
jump the starter terminals with a screwdriver, and try the following:
To check the starter solenoid or relay connections, connect the meter positive lead to positive battery terminal on the solenoid, and the meter negative lead to the starter motor terminal. Crank the engine and note the reading. A good connection should have a voltage drop of 0.2 volts or less.
i have a new key cylinder in the car, which I replaced unrelated to this. It did not change the behavior at all
Think ill do a new starter first and see what happens
its funny because it never did it prior to the swap and with everything basically stock, but that was also 10 years ago
Last edited by Rob XX 7; Nov 29, 2016 at 12:15 PM.
mine used to do that all the time, I went through a few starters and then finally wired up the starter trigger with a relay and it fixed it.
basically the 12V to the starter from the key has to go through a lot of things and it looses voltage this combined with an aging key cylinder not making great contact causes the problem.
If you use the starter trigger instead as a trigger for a relay and give the starter straight battery voltage from the positive post on the starter it's fine.
pettit racing makes a kit... but it's really just a relay: RX7 Starter Booster
lets add this text for anyone else skimming through so they have all info in one spot:
"The relay has four terminals labeled 85, 86, 87 and 30. In the above drawing connect the black (ground) wire to 85, yellow to 86, green to 87 and red to 30"
You can try it for giggles. Relays are CHEAP. I usually buy them in lots of 15 and they cost a little more each than Raman Noodles.
I think you're gonna love your new 2kw starter eventually.
i might have a window of opportunity around christmas to bring my car to my shop and mess with it, but after that it gets pushed off to the side of my small garage so I can fit my snow blower past it and thats where it will likely sit until april-may
I guess I will try the relay thing first, i start the car up every few weeks when I remember so it will be a good test
i might have a window of opportunity around christmas to bring my car to my shop and mess with it, but after that it gets pushed off to the side of my small garage so I can fit my snow blower past it and thats where it will likely sit until april-may
I guess I will try the relay thing first, i start the car up every few weeks when I remember so it will be a good test
Snow Blower! LOL. I always forget about that whole *snow and cold weather thing*. One of my stated life-goals is to never wear long pants again.