Start-up procedure for a engine that's been sitting
Start-up procedure for a engine that's been sitting
Hello all.
Soon, it looks like ill be putting the engine back into an FC. It's a GXL so non turbo. It was removed for an engine swap, and has been sitting for 6 or so months. The engine ran perfectly fine before.
I know Rotaries don't like sitting for awhile, so what's the best bet for the first startup after some time sitting? Since the engine is out of the car, what should I do before I put it in? Should I add some lubricant or something? I am new to rotaries but have rebuilt piston engines.
And once it is in and ready to fire, what should I do to make sure the engine doesn't damage itself after starting up following sitting for so long? I would like to do a complete reseal since it will be out. But I also want to make sure I can prep the engine before it's first start to make sure it doesn't blow.
I don't know if the OMP has been working, but the PO tells me he has been pre-mixing for most of since he's had it. Thoughts? Any tip for a newbie?
Soon, it looks like ill be putting the engine back into an FC. It's a GXL so non turbo. It was removed for an engine swap, and has been sitting for 6 or so months. The engine ran perfectly fine before.
I know Rotaries don't like sitting for awhile, so what's the best bet for the first startup after some time sitting? Since the engine is out of the car, what should I do before I put it in? Should I add some lubricant or something? I am new to rotaries but have rebuilt piston engines.
And once it is in and ready to fire, what should I do to make sure the engine doesn't damage itself after starting up following sitting for so long? I would like to do a complete reseal since it will be out. But I also want to make sure I can prep the engine before it's first start to make sure it doesn't blow.
I don't know if the OMP has been working, but the PO tells me he has been pre-mixing for most of since he's had it. Thoughts? Any tip for a newbie?
is it just the keg sitting for 6 months? or was it a complete engine with exhaust manifold and intake manifold still installed on it? If the engine was a complete long block (with all manifolds installed) you can just install it and start it up, just change the oil, and prime it before starting the engine. Fill it with new oil and just crank it for 5 seconds, then stop and let start cool down, then crank again for 5 seconds. Do it maybe 3-4 times so the oil gets pumped into the bearings so you wont get a dry start.
Now, if the engine was sitting with manifolds off outside or something, you will need to lubricate the housings. Honestly you should lubricate the housing either way, if it was sealed up or open to the elements. pour a teaspoon of engine oil into each of the 6 rotor facing and crank it so the oil gets spread out and lubricate the inside of the housing and apex seals. Before you start it I would put in some good used spark plugs because its gonna get fouled up with the oil, run it for 15 minutes while you bleed the coolant, after 15 mins shut it off and check oil level and change the plugs to new plugs.
Theres a few things minor things you can do which I am having a brain fart right now, but the 2 major things to get right is to lubricate the housings and apex seal with oil to build good compression, and to prime the oil with good oil. Once you do get it up and running i would run premix at 3ounces per every gallon to start, then drop it to 2 ounce every gallon from then on, some people do prefer 1 ounce to 1 gallon though
Now, if the engine was sitting with manifolds off outside or something, you will need to lubricate the housings. Honestly you should lubricate the housing either way, if it was sealed up or open to the elements. pour a teaspoon of engine oil into each of the 6 rotor facing and crank it so the oil gets spread out and lubricate the inside of the housing and apex seals. Before you start it I would put in some good used spark plugs because its gonna get fouled up with the oil, run it for 15 minutes while you bleed the coolant, after 15 mins shut it off and check oil level and change the plugs to new plugs.
Theres a few things minor things you can do which I am having a brain fart right now, but the 2 major things to get right is to lubricate the housings and apex seal with oil to build good compression, and to prime the oil with good oil. Once you do get it up and running i would run premix at 3ounces per every gallon to start, then drop it to 2 ounce every gallon from then on, some people do prefer 1 ounce to 1 gallon though
Last edited by Black Knight RX7 FC3S; Apr 30, 2022 at 12:50 AM.
I’d put some oil in each rotor housing through the spark plug holes, crank by hand to check for 6 even strong pulses before doing anything else.
but 6 months isn’t that long to jeopardize its health, unless it’s been sitting exposed to a moist environment.
get 2 sets of plugs ready when trying to start it.
but 6 months isn’t that long to jeopardize its health, unless it’s been sitting exposed to a moist environment.
get 2 sets of plugs ready when trying to start it.
Sounds good. Thank you all for the help. I told him to put some oil in the housing before trying to crank it by hand. The engine has been sitting almost fully assembled (still on the trans) inside his shop. I just want to be as safe as I can be. Once I get the engine home, I am going to try to reseal all of it before it goes back into the car.
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