This is a series 4 with a TII engine swap.
N333 ECU with RTek 1.8 chip
Greddy 720cc injectors (bought used, seller claimed they were cleaned and flow-tested)
Denso FD fuel pump with external Aeromotive FPR, adjusted to 43.5 psi with engine off. Factory FPR removed from rail.

The engine starts up pretty easily but runs rough and dies after 2-10 seconds. Giving it any throttle causes it to die immediately.

- I've tried 3 different TPSes, all three of them pass the sweep test with an Ohm meter. I've tried adjusting with the resistance method and the voltage method. Going between the two methods requires readjustment (ie, having it set to 1k Ohm resistance doesn't equal 1 volt), is that normal? I've tested voltage at the ECU end of the wires and they check out.

- I've rigged up a boost leak tester and I'm fairly certain I've eliminated all vacuum leaks. The only hiss I hear is, I believe, coming from the thermowax gasket, which Mazda did on purpose. I stripped the engine to a bare block and replaced every gasket before install.

- I've tested the AFM according to the FSM, it checks out. Pushing in the flapper with the key on causes the fuel pump to run. The bypass passage is clear.

I haven't been able to properly set timing yet since I can't get an idle. A while back I did have it idling at about 1500 RPM and I mistakenly adjusted it to the yellow mark then. I've since made tiny adjustments to the CAS blindly bit by bit to see if it improves idle but haven't had any luck yet. I'm about to re-stab the CAS and start over.

Anything else I should check?

 

for timing, you can take the cover off the CAS, and take the little plastic plug off. there are two wheels in there, one with a bunch of teeth, and one with two big teeth
put the cover back. then when you put the engine on the yellow mark, one of the big teeth should be close to centered in the hole in the CAS cover.

for fuel, isn't 43psi too high? stock is more like 38 or so (you should look in the FSM)