88 GLX Cold Start / Idle Issue
#1
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88 GLX Cold Start / Idle Issue
Hello all!
Fairly new to the scene and website. I'm having a bit of an annoying problem here. It occurs on cold start most of the time but is not limited to only cold start. Basically I turn the key, clutch pressed down and it will turn over for about 1 second then start. Ok good, then shoot up to 3k which i've read is normal with the AWS, then it will proceeded to drop until it dies. It will die every time unless I blip the gas then it will find either 2k or 1.5k and sit there for around 5 minutes before finally dropping to normal idle around 800. Since it seems to find idle when i blip the throttle could it be a fuel issue? I've done a few preliminary checks of the TPS and seemed OK though im a mechanic novice so i could of done it wrong.
Any thread suggestions or help is greatly appreciated.
Fairly new to the scene and website. I'm having a bit of an annoying problem here. It occurs on cold start most of the time but is not limited to only cold start. Basically I turn the key, clutch pressed down and it will turn over for about 1 second then start. Ok good, then shoot up to 3k which i've read is normal with the AWS, then it will proceeded to drop until it dies. It will die every time unless I blip the gas then it will find either 2k or 1.5k and sit there for around 5 minutes before finally dropping to normal idle around 800. Since it seems to find idle when i blip the throttle could it be a fuel issue? I've done a few preliminary checks of the TPS and seemed OK though im a mechanic novice so i could of done it wrong.
Any thread suggestions or help is greatly appreciated.
#2
roTAR needz fundZ
iTrader: (1)
If your able to force it to idle by canceling the AWS its unlikely its a fuel problem
I would start out by driving it for about a half hour, then adjust the TPS, and not by the FSM, the FSM has you adjust it by Ohms when the ECU see's volts, you want to check DC volts at the green and white wire (IIRC) and adjust it till you get 1vDC, make sure the initial set coupler is jumped while doing the adjustment
IF that doesn't fix it, i would say there is a blockage in the TB for the thermowax and is making it work wonky
I'd try the TPS adjustment first as its the easiest, and if that doesn't fix it try cleaning the TB throughly
I would start out by driving it for about a half hour, then adjust the TPS, and not by the FSM, the FSM has you adjust it by Ohms when the ECU see's volts, you want to check DC volts at the green and white wire (IIRC) and adjust it till you get 1vDC, make sure the initial set coupler is jumped while doing the adjustment
IF that doesn't fix it, i would say there is a blockage in the TB for the thermowax and is making it work wonky
I'd try the TPS adjustment first as its the easiest, and if that doesn't fix it try cleaning the TB throughly
#3
rotorhole
you either have a vacuum leak and/or an AFM that is crapping the bed. the fuel pump switch in the AFM can become rather sensitive and have dead spots where it shuts off the fuel pump if the vane closes even a hair too much.
jumper the yellow fuel pump test connector and see if the behavior changes, if not then i would check for vacuum leaks.
checking the timing and doing tune up items isn't a bad idea either, if it hasn't been done.
jumper the yellow fuel pump test connector and see if the behavior changes, if not then i would check for vacuum leaks.
checking the timing and doing tune up items isn't a bad idea either, if it hasn't been done.