My car starts, revs up to 2k instantly and then immediately dies. I just finished replacing a lot of little 5/32" vacuum lines and removing my air pump (blocked off ACV) and unplugged the two no longer necessary solenoids on my 1987 TII. I unplugged them instead of capping them because the plastic nipples broke off of them. I switched the plug from the blue solenoid with the one from the orange solenoid since I needed to keep that one and ran the vac line accordingly.
I've checked all major air lines and I can't seem to find anything. I pulled the fuse and had my brother crank the engine and listened for a leak and couldn't find anything so now I think it's one of the following:
sparks
battery
some damn vac leak.
1. What do you guys think it is?
2. What sparks should I get (numbers please)?
3. What battery should I get?
Thanks,
Dave

 

I did check the FSm and search. I'm almost positive it's a vac leak, but I still want to know what I should get for sparks and a batt. and what are some of the main places that vac leaks could make your car completely die out?

 

how long does it run for... i know your is a TII but when one of my belts managed to slice into the vac hose going to the vac/boot sensor of my 87 N/A it would run perfectly for roufly 3 - 5 sec and then just died

 

make sure your afm connection isnt loose

 

It ain't a gonna be one of those tiny little vacuum lines. It's either a Large Leak. Like the brake vacuum hose off or one of the intercooler hose clamps off, or one of the clamps of the bac feed line directly under the bac.

Or it could be fuel pump related. Turning the key to Start will energize the fuel pump as long as the key is held to Start. When you let go, the engine starts and a switch in the afm *makes* and the fuel pump keeps running. If that switch is not making, you can readily see why the engine would not run any more (fuel pump turned off when the key was returned from Start back to ON). So you might jumper that fuel pump check connector and see if the engine will keep running. That check connector duplicates what the afm switch does in life. IF after jumpering the yellow fuel pump check connector the engine still does not keep running......forget about it being a fuel pump related problem and find that LARGE air leak. NOt a puny little vacuum line, but the LARGE ones. Also make sure the AFM electrical connector has not fallen off.

 

listen just to spare you some latter frustration.. if it is the same problem as me it's very easy to fixe and in the same area as the fuel pump check connector

and i'll get some pics of the thing for you..
pretty sure you have the same thing in a turbo engine just the thing also reads boost at higher RPM's

and yes this 1/4" puny vacum line will cause your car to start run fine for several second and then just die w/o even sputtering, like i said my line got sliced while driving around in a parking lot car died, found the line, fortunatly the slit was close to one end so i just shortened it put it back on and the car ran fine

 

Yhea you might want to jump the circuit opening relay beneath the steering wheel, just in case it's a wireing problem.

 

Remember this line from the post: *then immediately dies***

You could be right. I don't think so in this case. But then I'm wrong a few times each day. We'll agree to disagree.

 

Remember this line from the post: *then immediately dies***

You could be right. I don't think so in this case. But then I'm wrong a few times each day. We'll agree to disagree.

And I forgot to mention the about one inch hose on the Air Bypass Valve that might have blown off during boost.

 

It's been sitting for two weeks like I said, so it hasn't been boosted and no hose has been blown off from that. I figure it has to be a large vacuum leak, although it may be the fuel pump check connector as previously mentioned. I'll work on jumping that right now after I put a few gallons of fuel into the car and check the main hoses
dave

 

im having the same problem, i turn it on and just goes up to 2 k then dies, sometimes it goes to 5k and stays there and i hear a whistling sound and when the car is on the on position but isn't started i hear my dynamic chamber clicking inside or something =( and my valve check thing is broken. the valve check thing that goes under the throttle body by the intake does anyone know where i can get em at? or any solutions? i just changed my oil lines spider lines and some other hoses
it's on a n/a 87

 

Ok, well I traced down a vac leak on the UIM. there was a little bit of rubber that was preventing it from being all the way sealed down. (ya I'm retarded) I fixed all of that, reassembled the car, and now it turns over and over without starting. I'm deflooding itright now because I think it's flooded, as it smells like fuel.
BUT, I also need to get a new battery (sparks should be ok for now) what battery do you guys recommend?

 

Scratch the above I got a redtop optima.
I held the AFM flapper open and got it to idle very roughly, and I hear air being sucked in somewhere under the intercooler I have no idea where that is comin from There is a fairly large nipple on top of the TB that isn't connected to anything but I thought it was for coolant. I'm probably wrong, whre does it connect to?

 

BUMP still don't know what to do

 

If the sound is coming from under the throttle body...then it's probably one of the fuel injector grommets leaking air. Just take the throttle body off and take a look see.

 

I seem to be having the same problem. Anybody know where this fuel pump check connector is located on an S5 TII? Any pictures would be very helpful

 

LOL everybody get a haynes manual

 

Yeah sure, but between ordering and getting it, I'd be loosing precious time. Patience isn't one of my best virtues

 

Can anyone please tell me where that fuel check connector is located on an S5 T2. I really can't find it and my Haynes manual still hasn't arrived ...

 

Find your boost sensor. The plug is within three or four inches. It's not plugged into anything. It just lays about. It might have a blackboot around it. Its yellow in color. Two sockets.