Sythe

iTrader: (1)

So I just installed the Stance Coilover SS+ suspension system on my car with no issues (never done this before, have little experience with anything suspension related).

My car was stock suspension and was little millimeters from rubbing my Mb Battles which are 17x9 +38 on all fours (with rolled fenders up front).

So, I thought, once I install the coilovers, I'll have more clearance. I'm not sure if I'm stupid or just don't understand how the suspension intertwines with the wheel and tire but now the coilover is literally rubbing the rim/tire on the front and I cannot drive the vehicle without spacers.

The coilover by stance has much, much smaller (in terms of width) springs than the stock front springs, so how am I now rubbing? Is it just because the stance coilover sits closer to the wheel or what? (that's what it seems like).

Also, I'm getting some shitty temp spacers tomorrow but if anyone could recommend some high quality (not super expensive) spacers that I could run indefinitely, please link me because I'm clueless when it comes to spacers.


EDIT: I would need very small spacers.. probably 5-10mm. Not even.

clean87

iTrader: (1)

Did you set your camber on the front? There should be play at the 2 bolts where the coil overs mount to the spindle when the bolts are loose. If you pull it out you will gain some space but you will have a more positive camber. You should still go get a alignment any way to adjust your tow after lowering it and have the camber set.

Sythe

iTrader: (1)

If by spindle you mean the lower part of the coilover where the two bolts connect to the brakes, I did not find much play area but I basically bolted the coilovers up pretty quickly.

I don't want positive camber, though and no I did not mess with the camber adjustment tool up top underneath the hood. Wouldn't I still need to get spacers even if I did adjust the camber? The alignment would put me right back to where I started with rubbing issues, correct? Sorry, I really don't understand the interaction between suspension components.

GrossPolluter

iTrader: (1)

Don't worry about positive camber, he just means loosening the bottom 2 bolts up and tightening them down for more clearance. That is what camber plates are for, I doubt you are maxing them out, or are you?

I would have to say the angle of the drilled hole tabs coming off the coilover are at a different angle than the previous ones. If not angle, the distance the tab comes out before the holes are drilled I have 17x9+22 and my tire barely clears my kyb agx. adding a spacer will probably now cause you to damage your fenders

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Any photos of your installation?

Sythe

iTrader: (1)

Wait, wait. I'm not familiar with this process... You can loosen bolts on the camber plate to provide more clearance with your coilover? So no, I'm not maxing them out lol or even using this technique.

Sythe

iTrader: (1)

Unfortunately, my car is stuck at my father's house with all of our tools. We keep everything there because of how much we have. It simply is easier to put everything there and my car could not be driven home with the rubbing.

I did not take any substantial pictures of the actual coilover setup. I wish I took some now but I didn't notice the rubbing until I actually tried driving the vehicle and heard it. I kind of assumed that they would offer more clearance based on what I've read.

Sythe

iTrader: (1)

So I can get a more clear understanding...

GrossPolluter

iTrader: (1)

The let 2 bolts at the bottom can be pushed on some shocks to change camber, but in your case, add more clearance would be that adjustment at the most positive setting. Then you take your camber plates at the top and use that to set your desired camber spec.
Ever heard of Ingalls bolts for camber adjustment? Well, some come with one of the 2 bolts slotted. Or you can see how much clearance you have to create more clearance.

GrossPolluter

iTrader: (1)

I'm talking about the arrow that says "front lower bracket". There are a few ways to add camber.
1) camber plate
2) slotted or crash bolts on the upper bolt where it goes to spindle
3) longer control arms
4) lower control arm mounting hole further outwards
5) bending your strut rod (my favorite method after an accident or curbing your car)

Sythe

iTrader: (1)

I see. I don't want any camber what-so-ever though. So you cannot add clearance without camber? or am I not understanding something?


And thanks so much this far. I know it is difficult teaching someone without any knowledge of suspension, lol.

GrossPolluter

iTrader: (1)

The clearance by adjusting the lower mounting holes will make your car more positive. Not to say you will have positive camber. Just saying if you had wheels for with those coils and you were at 1.5 negative, by sliding that adjustment you might be at 1 degree negative. That's only going to buy you a few mm clearance. Hopefully that's all you need, but remember tie flex.

Factory specs will call for a certain degree of negative camber. Front negative camber helps handling on our cars anyways. 17x9 +38 is interesting. I have 17x9 +22 with shine fenders. Just enough clearance to my kyb agx and clears fenders with some camber. I haven't measured it yet

Sythe

iTrader: (1)

It wasn't exactly the offset I was wanting but I really like these wheels on the car so I could not pass them up for the price I got them at.

I think that I will need roughly 5mm clearance so I may go with small spacers for now and look at negative camber when I grasp the concept more.

I have one more question real quick though:

This is the only picture I have so bare with me. I just took one as I was installing it for no reason at all, really.
These two parts were physically touching after I bolted the coilover onto where it is supposed to be. Like the bottom black piece where it mounts to the car is resting against the piece that I have drawn the line to (I don't know the name of it).







Is this something that would cause problems? I didn't know if excessive wear/driving/bumps would somehow damage the coilover. I don't know **** about these things but the stock ones weren't touching it so I just want to make sure.

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

Yes the rear shocks will probably rub the rear hub a bit. As long as the spacers are installed on the lower mount it is probably ok and should just rub light. The parts will "self clearance" over time.

You need a 10mm or 12mm spacer in front to get those wheels to work. To do that you will need to install longer wheel studs most likely.

As Gross Polluter said, if you want to run a 9 inch wheel up front, your offset needs to be in the +25 area with coilovers. You'll need around -2 degrees of camber to get the tires to clear stock rolled fenders.

I'd just pull off your front hubs and swap the studs for longer ones and buy some slide on spacers. All of that is about $60 in parts and some time.

GrossPolluter

iTrader: (1)

I forgot if rear studs were easy. I did mine when I did the rear wheel bearings

Sythe

iTrader: (1)

Firstly, thank you for the information regarding the rear.

Secondly, is it okay to run a 12mm spacer for long periods of time? And what size extended studs do you recommend?

And with this spacer, I won't need camber, will I?

Rikk

iTrader: (2)

ARP makes extended wheel studs the 2 1/2 inch studs are part number 100–7708 the 3 1/4 inch wheel studs are 100–7713, H&R and Ichibi both make wheel spacers
GL

Sythe

iTrader: (1)

I ordered some Ichibi 12mm spacers + extended studs all for $98 because they came together so whatever. I'm just ready to get the car on the road again.

monty11ez

You definitely want some camber. -1.5 is all you really need.

Sythe

iTrader: (1)

That's about what I had before the coilovers, and what I'll aim for as soon as I get my spacers and **** in.

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

The spacer with integrated studs should work for you.

Or the ARP 100-7708 studs should work for a spacer less than half an inch.

It is fine to run a spacer forever as long as you have proper thread engagement on the lug nuts. I'd recommend high quality billet aluminium spacers, not cheap cast ones.

You will need camber and a fender roll with 17x9s unless you are running tires too small for the rims.

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

They are easy if you are doing the rear wheel bearings too. You can't put in longer studs without pressing the drive hub out of the upright.

Sythe

iTrader: (1)

You are a major asset to these forums man.

Here's where I am at:

I ordered (Ichiba V1 12mm 5x114 3 Bore 59 5mm Wheel Spacers Mazda RX 7 RX7 MX 6 88 97 | eBay) because the extended studs are including -- and I can handle installing those, no problem. I'm not sure if aluminum/magnesium alloy is "high" quality but I read a few threads from the past recommending these spacers.

My fenders are rolled up front and I could run some camber if you guys advise it for performance purposes (I mainly street drive my car but I'd like any performance gains as long as it won't wreck my treadlife).

Another situation that I am facing is my rear wheels now being cambered heavily due to the lowering so I am ordering some Ronin Speedworks Camber Links (which I've read are awesome). No purpose to run rear camber I am going to assume.

So 0 Degrees Rear, 1.5 Degrees Front camber for performance?

RXSpeed16

iTrader: (41)

Rotate the shock body a half rotation so the longer spacer is toward the hub. The lower mounts are asymmetrical, so you may be able to get the clearance you need just by changing that.

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

You should be OK with that spacer setup. I think those are decent quality.

You want around -1 degree camber in the rear, you don't want them at 0. The Ronin Speedworks rear camber links will get you fixed up in back.

For the front -1.5 will be a good aggressive street camber setting.