2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Stalls, won't hold idle, need help. Searched.

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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 09:58 AM
  #26  
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From: tulsa,ok.
Originally Posted by InsomniacFC
Changed the fuel filter. I did a little bit, but did not fix the issue. Still dies when it is cold and will surge between 750-1000 rpms when warm. Feels really weak and will still die at stoplights. The idle is turned as far as it can go, the CAS has been restabbed and the timing is right, TPS was reset as it was off just a hair, no fuel leaks, and just that air leak on the EGR. I'm going to swap a known good one in and a new gasket and see what that does.
Until you fix that air/vacuum leak at the EGR you will continue to have problems regardless of any other changes made.
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 08:14 PM
  #27  
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From: Modesto, CA
Originally Posted by satch
Until you fix that air/vacuum leak at the EGR you will continue to have problems regardless of any other changes made.
Ok I'll get it done in the morning.


@Karack: I'll give it another shot. This is actually a motor you rebuilt about 5 years ago. I got it from another forum member.
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 01:13 PM
  #28  
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From: Modesto, CA
Update: After re-doing the compression test, changing gaskets, checking every connector, resetting the tps and timing 5 times it turned out to be a vacuum leak. I'm assuming my taking off the UIM 5 times in 3 weeks time I probably wiggled a line loose, which turned out to be the line going to the EGR from the rats nest. I fixed the leak and the car settled down, stopped dying at lights, and I was able to lower the idle which is now around a solid 800.

Speaking of that, the EGR I had on there as just fine. I checked it with the vacuum gauge and it was working within Mazda specs. It was also clogged up with black crud so I cleaned it out and it seems to be working ok.
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