springs and shocks.
springs and shocks.
I am getting some money back from uncle same and am looking into some suspension upgrades. This is my first rx7 and I am pretty impressed with it after the couples months I have had it. My goals for know are to make it decently quick (nonturbo gxl) and handle. I have never had a car that could handle very good. My other car is an 80's 300zx turbo. Its fast in a straight line and thats about it. I have searched the board but could not find what I was looking for. Is there a place that compares aftermarket spring rates and what suspension componets work good together. Someting like This at the bottom? Thanks for any help
Displacement > Boost
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,503
Likes: 0
From: Mississippi
Data from the book _Mazda RX7 Performance Handbook_ by Mike Ancas:
Stock springs rates (lbs/in) - Front: 95, Rear: 90
Racing Beat - Front: 140, Rear: 132
Eibach- Front: 70/185, Rear: 85/165
Suspension Tech.: Front: 120, Rear: 120
The author claims Racing Beat to be the best option. Eibachs have "dual rates" which are okay for lowering and stiffening up the chassis, but not as good as single rate for all out performance. I have eibachs on my car and like them just fine, but if someone gave me a set of Racing Beat springs, I would switch them ASAP.
They don't give data for struts but tell that Tokico Illuminas have a five setting stiffness control while Konis are "infinately (no detent adjustment) adjustable". The author cautions against putting Koni struts on full stiff because they basically don't damp at all at that setting.
They don't recommend one brand over the other but recommend both as good options.
The author doesn't give much data for anti-sway bars, but does verify that the GXL / TII bars are larger than SE / Convertible bars. I am running a SE front bar and GXL rear bar on my car, which weighs 1200 front and 1220 lbs rear. W/o that balance, (ie. stock weight and slightly nose heavy) it might be better to have stock bars front and rear and not mix them, but I also know that a stock TII understeers noticeably compared to my little science project of and FC, which is more balanced.
Rear steer eliminator bushings: Race drivers usually put these in to keep their rear toe setting where they want it. I have done this mod and it made the car more predictable. Search for DTSS eliminators and you will find more posts on them and what they do.
Poly suspension bushings: in a nutshell, they improve the chassis tightness and feeling of being connected to the road, but also cause you to "feel" the road in a bad way compared to the rubber bushings that come stock. Again, these are another good mod for hardcore race drivers because they keep the suspension geometry aligned moreso than the stock rubbers.
Camber adjusters are great for fine tuning front and rear camber to allow maximum grip in cornering. I have played with front camber adjustment and found it to be very effective in maximizing front end traction.
If I were you and building up a suspenion for a GXL, I would go for some struts and springs, fix any bushings that are bad and do rear steer eliminators. Nice compound tires would top off the package (I'm using Potenza RE-92s and they are good enough for me).
And welcome to the club.
Stock springs rates (lbs/in) - Front: 95, Rear: 90
Racing Beat - Front: 140, Rear: 132
Eibach- Front: 70/185, Rear: 85/165
Suspension Tech.: Front: 120, Rear: 120
The author claims Racing Beat to be the best option. Eibachs have "dual rates" which are okay for lowering and stiffening up the chassis, but not as good as single rate for all out performance. I have eibachs on my car and like them just fine, but if someone gave me a set of Racing Beat springs, I would switch them ASAP.
They don't give data for struts but tell that Tokico Illuminas have a five setting stiffness control while Konis are "infinately (no detent adjustment) adjustable". The author cautions against putting Koni struts on full stiff because they basically don't damp at all at that setting.
They don't recommend one brand over the other but recommend both as good options.
The author doesn't give much data for anti-sway bars, but does verify that the GXL / TII bars are larger than SE / Convertible bars. I am running a SE front bar and GXL rear bar on my car, which weighs 1200 front and 1220 lbs rear. W/o that balance, (ie. stock weight and slightly nose heavy) it might be better to have stock bars front and rear and not mix them, but I also know that a stock TII understeers noticeably compared to my little science project of and FC, which is more balanced.
Rear steer eliminator bushings: Race drivers usually put these in to keep their rear toe setting where they want it. I have done this mod and it made the car more predictable. Search for DTSS eliminators and you will find more posts on them and what they do.
Poly suspension bushings: in a nutshell, they improve the chassis tightness and feeling of being connected to the road, but also cause you to "feel" the road in a bad way compared to the rubber bushings that come stock. Again, these are another good mod for hardcore race drivers because they keep the suspension geometry aligned moreso than the stock rubbers.
Camber adjusters are great for fine tuning front and rear camber to allow maximum grip in cornering. I have played with front camber adjustment and found it to be very effective in maximizing front end traction.
If I were you and building up a suspenion for a GXL, I would go for some struts and springs, fix any bushings that are bad and do rear steer eliminators. Nice compound tires would top off the package (I'm using Potenza RE-92s and they are good enough for me).
And welcome to the club.
still love the FC
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 360
Likes: 0
From: Dayton, Ohio
Wow. Real Information.
Thanks for the information 88IntegraLS.
I've searched on here many times trying to select a spring and strut combination. I would like a setup that is not much harsher than stock on the street but can do okay at an autocross or road course.
The suspension forum is light on information for FCs, but one FD owner described why he thought Eibach progressive springs were better for a road course (and linear rate springs would be better for an autocross). I have not ridden in a car with progressive rate springs, so I have no idea what it is like.
I have also read in this section that non-adjustable Tokico springs and struts (like from www.rx7.com ?) provide good handling for the street (compared favorably to Racing Beat springs matched with KYB AGX adjustable struts).
Does anyone else have any good FC suspension information?
Also, if lowering springs are used (Eibachs ~0.75 in, Racing Beat ~1.0 in, Suspension Tech ~1.0 in), is it critical to use camber adjusters if the car is not an all out track car?
I've searched on here many times trying to select a spring and strut combination. I would like a setup that is not much harsher than stock on the street but can do okay at an autocross or road course.
The suspension forum is light on information for FCs, but one FD owner described why he thought Eibach progressive springs were better for a road course (and linear rate springs would be better for an autocross). I have not ridden in a car with progressive rate springs, so I have no idea what it is like.
I have also read in this section that non-adjustable Tokico springs and struts (like from www.rx7.com ?) provide good handling for the street (compared favorably to Racing Beat springs matched with KYB AGX adjustable struts).
Does anyone else have any good FC suspension information?
Also, if lowering springs are used (Eibachs ~0.75 in, Racing Beat ~1.0 in, Suspension Tech ~1.0 in), is it critical to use camber adjusters if the car is not an all out track car?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post