uRizen

iTrader: (2)

I removed the spider, ran high-quality FI rated fuel line directly from the filter to the PD and from the FPR down to the return line. All the fuel line is new and everything has been cleaned very well.

When I jumper the pump test connector, I get this flowing, kidna hissing noise from the rail area (no one piece in particular), but there are no leaks, and I don't smell gas around or inside the intake runners. My injectors don't feel like there is any flow going through them, and I smell nothing.

I felt the fuel lines on the driver's side and you can feel fuel flowing through them, and it seems the return line is vibrating a bit more.

Is this normal after switching to all soft lines in the bay, or is something afoot?

ilike2eatricers

Sounds normal to me. Did you jumper the fuel pump with the UIM off? I do this everytime I do any injector work so you can literally see if anything is leaking and also since the intake runners on the lower intake manifold are open you can see or smell if any fuel is leaking past the injectors. This way if you do have a leak you dont have to take off the UIM again since it's already off.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

The sound is normal, fuel passing through the rails and getting somewhat pressurized by the FPR.

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

Cool, thanks for the reassurance guys. Now it's time to see if it runs after ripping all that stuff out.

Syonyk

Yea, the sounds of testing your fuel system are a bit surprising the first time. If you have a lot of air in the lines, you'll get a fairly loud whooshing for a few seconds, followed by the sedate hissing of fuel flowing through.

The fuel system is a return type, so there's always fuel flowing through the lines. The excess fuel just gets vented back to the tank. I assume this prevents vapor lock & other early fuel injection problems. You just don't normally hear the fuel flow over other things like the starter/engine.

-=Russ=-

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

I just ran it and it's running much better then it was before (I had some pretty major vac. leaks before). The only thing that's bugging me the slightest is that you can't just mosh the throttle down because I removed the secondary butterflys, but that's not something a good driver should be doing anyways, right?

There were a few things I did that I didn't see in any of the write-ups and am curious to see what you guys think

The first thing I did was to cut the brackets off the spider so I had something in the rear holding the UIM up, which works well. I also did this because on the front-rear bracket I mounted the FPR solinoid and ran a line from that little nipple on the back of the dynamic chamber for source and of course ran a line to the FPR.

I haven't seen any mention of leaving this little guy in there, but don't you need something to properly control the FPR, or do most people just run it straight to a vacuum source?

The only other thing I left in was the crankcase ventilation deal off the filler neck. I ran two lines to the nipples on the back of the dynamic chamber behind the throttle cable. If I were to remove this in the future, can I just run a line off the filler neck and into a catch can, or does there still need to be vacuum at the can to help draw the vapors out? I'm not too worried about that because the back of my throttle plates and runners wasn't caked with oil, there was just a light glazing on there.

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

Ok, drove for about an hour today and everything is great. Now I just need to get my exhaust leak repaired (then my aux. ports will work, yeah!).

There are two issues that I have come across.

I re-adjusted the idle, and it still doesn't like to go above 500rpm using the throttle body upper screw, so I adjusted the little screw that controls the upper primary butterflies and it's at ~700rpm and smooth.

The second involves the TPS. I removed it during throttle body modifications so I figured I should re-adjust it. I can get one light to come up, but not both no matter how I turn it. If I hold the throttle down ever so slightly they both will come on.

I know this is a good TPS, so should I just give it a little time and try again tomarrow (the vehicle was very warm when I attempted, maybe I should just warm it just enough to get the fast idle cam to drop)?

ilike2eatricers

I havent tried the 2 lights method but using a multimeter has never failed me.

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

I used to use the multimeter at the ECU, but I fabbed up a little light thing and tried it for giggles and haven't gone back since.

I don't know about other's cars, but for mine it seems to be the best method... now if only I could get it to work again, lol.