MazdaMike02

iTrader: (4)

87' GX N/A
Well, I fixed my no spark problem it was the ECU ground under the extension manifold. Anyway, I solved that tried to start it nothin. I bought new plugs, changed the oil (needed to), and bought new injector seals. Anyway, it floods almost instantly...everytime. So I called up a guy I know whos a Rotary Master...he said that its probably got stuck apex seal springs and it doesn't have proper compression. He said, push start it thats the only way to get it started...My car hates me lol, if its not one thing its another.

Now my choices are if my motor doesnt run, replace with full s5 drivetrain from another parts car I bought (with all wiring), buy another s4 motor from a guy I know for 900 bucks, pay for a rebuild..or if worse comes to worse get rid of it and get another.

Now what I'm askin is could I just put shitloads of oil, crank it and let it sit...or should I just say **** it and pour in ATF (yes I know what it does) or just fix the brakes and push start the hoe.

turboIIrotary

iTrader: (9)

or you can get a compression test

glh-fc

best option still.never assume something unless you test it.

MazdaMike02

iTrader: (4)

Compression test doesn't help me start it... Only proves what I already know. I'll do it later when I have some help.

Craiger

iTrader: (1)

If compression is low then throwing in some oil will get the job done. I would not use ATF. If it won't work with the oil it probably won't work with ATF.

MazdaMike02

iTrader: (4)

See I did that when I first got the car, but I had never had it sparking or giving fuel back then..but iduno I'll do it later when I get home let it sit overnight and then push start it tomorrow...how much oil should I put in the housings though? I don't wanna foul up my new plugs.

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

pull your plugs out and heat them up with a torch, just enough to dry them out not to much...pull your egi fuses and crank it over for about 6-10secs and wait a minute or so... do that a few times then try to get about a tablesppon worth of oil in each trailin plug hole and crank it over a couple more times....put your plugs and fuses back in....if it has fuel and spark that'll start it

MazdaMike02

iTrader: (4)

I've tried de-flooding. Its not an injector issue, its improper sealing due to stuck seal springs...btw this motor hasn't ran in at least 5 years. But I've gotta do the run brake lines n **** to get it ready for push starting so i'll try that anyway.

Phantomkid

It seems the motors still together... Your set that its a stuck seal because of what someone told you? or do you have proof? yes it could be a stuck seal but it could be some other issue. how do you know your getting fuel? good luck hopefully the push start works. i would try the deflooding because not only does it deflood the motor but you can get an idea about compresssion by the noise exiting the spark plug holes.. a compression gauge is a good idea remember to pull the shrader valve to get a more accurate reading

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

the oil will regain a seal between the apex seal and rotor housing restoring some compression....if it hasn't ran in 5 years thats even more of a reason to add the oil
the gas would have washed the housing clean you need some oil in there to lube it up till the OMP can take over

i'd put almost a shot worth of oil in each one , but not all at once just a bit and crank it over a couple time to work it in
....i got my jdm engine to first start after god knows how long and it was running on one rotor and i had my injector wiring backwords so i was running my secondaries as primaries....it doesn't get much worse than that

get the fuel out and work some oil through it and heat the plugs up ....if theres fuel and spark it'll start if not then its something else..

check your fuses

MazdaMike02

iTrader: (4)

I'll try it. I've got nothin to lose anyway.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

if the Exhaust is Off,you can stick your Fingers in there and Feel the Apex seals..

MazdaMike02

iTrader: (4)

I'm attaching the brake lines which the previous owner didn't bother when doing the 5 lug conversion on the front...so I'll run the lines, bleed the brakes and push start it.

Well, the guys a licensed mechanic who was a Mazda tech and owned his own rotary shop for many years and has been working on them a hell of a lot longer than the majority of the people on this site.. Not only that he knows just about everything that could go wrong with a rotary engine..so I'm pretty sure he knows what hes talking about.

I think when the plugs are dripping fuel and you can flick tons of gas of them..its getting fuel. The guy told me because its got low compression, the gas just sneaks past the seals into the next chamber without burning so the motor just floods itself...not only that it leaks raw fuel out the exhaust...I found a leak just before the first precat where gas is coming out of.

I've checked every fuse with a digital multimeter they're fine. I've checked for spark on every plug, they all have a blueish white spark which is perfect.

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

you should wire in a switch to turn off your fuel pump my 86 and 87 both had one already
cuz that sounds like a good way to hydrolock your engine

MazdaMike02

iTrader: (4)

I read you can't hydrolock a rotary. Well I'm SOL till I either buy new rotors and pads or wait till I get my parts car.

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

man try that out it'll work it won't hurt anything you need to work alittle bit of oil through it after you clear out all the gas to rebuild some compression

heat your plugs up till all the gas is outta them

Turbo II Rotor

iTrader: (2)

Do a compression check, no use trying to start a dead engine.