89 Turbo II

Brand new Exedy clutch kit. What would cause this to happen. At Idle it's just like rocks or popcorn being popped. If I slightly push in the clutch it will go away. Sometimes after a while it will go away on its own.

This car is driving me crazy. The coolant system wont pressurize. I changed the thermostat and the old one looked fine. The heater wont blow warm, but if I turn it on for a minute I can see the temp gauge drop down. It doesn't leak, smoke, puke, overheat, or buzz. heater blows cold and upper radiator hose wont build pressure.

This is on top of electrical problems.

I just dropped a rebuilt j-spec in it and painstakingly put everything back together stock. So if this thing takes a **** anytime soon some poor bastard in the morgue is going to be pulling a .38 slug out of my head thinking "what a waste"

 

Did you add new or harder tranny/motor mounts? Possibly remove some of the insulation between the tranny and the shifter housing?


Reason being is it sounds like you are hearing the tranny bearings. With the clutch in the transmission isnt rotating so the bearings arent moving. With the clutch in, and the way rotaries tend to 'surge' at idle the bearings clatteras they are accelerated and decelerated quickly.

I wouldnt be overly concerned about it. When i put poly tranny/engine mounts in my car the bearing sounds came through loud and clear. When it idles it sounds like light clanking coming from the shift boot.


BC

 

Do you have all the motor mounts toqued?

 

Mounts are stock and good. With the hood open it is really loud knocking sound. I can't tell where it's coming from, but since pushing the clutch pedal in makes it go away I am going to assume it's coming from there.

The transmissions shifts smooth, doesn't grind is is full of royal purple.

 

Did you replace or change the throw out bearing when you were dropping in the motor?

 

Sounds like a bad throw-out bearing.

 

Walken-
I just recently installed a Exedy stage 1 clutch, Fidanza lighweight flywheel, and LSD and am experiencing the EXACT problem. I did install a new t/o bearing (from mazdatrix which looked slightly different than the other 3 I have lying around?) and pilot bearing. The rattling stops when I slightly touch on the clutch pedal. If I pump the clutch pedal multiply times and release my foot completely from the pedal the noise will go away momentarily. In my case, the noise will go away once I turn off the car and restart it or if i pop the clutch a little when taking off and will return when my car hits low rpms or if I rev the engine to about 5k while in nuetral. Adjusting the clutch play didn't solve the problem.
I did talk with a guy who has been rebuilding trannys for 40 yrs. He thinks that either 1) the t/o bearing is not always completely disengaging from the clutch fingers and could be catching on a bent finger or 2) the pilot bearing was overgreased (he explained as the grease heats up, it hardens, which may cause the input shaft on the tranny to catch on the rollers in the bearing). Both of which seem to be a possibility. He also explained to me why he thought it wasn't the tranny front input shaft bearings.
So, without removing the tranny to take a look at the clutch etc, the only other thing I can think of is that it may somehow be related to the clutch master and/or slave cylinder of which I did try bleeding.
As soon as I get some free time I plan on removing the tranny to inspect everything but if you come up with ANYTHING please post!!!

 

my buddy is a master mechanic and he said he bets its the throwout bearing and I didn't grease it properly.

I'm taking the car in for body work and paint Saturday so I'll check it out then and report back.

 

When i had that same problem in one of the many FCs i've owned, it was the throwout bearing. I didnt grease it properly enough when I installed it.

 

I have never greased a release bearing in my life.... However most aftermarket bearings are crap.. if you usd the one with the kit that may be your problem....

I always use new OEM release and pilot bearings when I do a clutch swap!

 

yeah, I guess shame on me for trusting Exedy. The picture showed metal weaved in the disc, but when I opened the box it was string. Doesn't slip though so that's a plus.

 

When I replaced my stock setup I had the same problem. It went away after about 5,000miles and hasn't had any problems after 25k.

 

I have learned,The Hard Way..Whenever you separate the Trans and Engine,For ANY reason,Replace the Bearings..there is NOTHING worse than Putting it all together and having to do it all OVER AGAIN!..(I know,I did it..****!)