You likely get talked down to because you had an attitude. Lose it, and notice some respect coming your way. It goes both ways.

 

harsh

 

In my lasts posts I have held back the really rude comments. I just tried to explain I dont like or need to be talked to like a 5 year old. And I have still been getting bashed on. I'm pretty sure they started it first and now I'm patiently waiting for real help instead of flaming but I'm not getting it. I really dont care about your opinion of me I just want help and real nonsarcastic answers. I could end this post with something rude calling someone an idio but instead I'll hold it back like the adult I am and say I just want help getting my car back on the road.

 

Like I said before, it seem you don't know the word "ignorant" means.
I'd highly suggest you go look it up.

Does this mean if we drop a broken 13B rotary engine in your lap, you should be able to rebuild it within one week?
We've got 16 year olds who are able to do this in here.
I'd assume that from someone who is "mechanically inclined".

You should step back and read what you're posting...
If you really want some help, you need to change the way you're replying.


-Ted

 

A search on here is always going to provide you more info than asking the question and camping the thread. These cars are more idiosyncratic than almost any other vehicle. In the two years and two different FCs i have owned i have not faced a problem that wasnt already tackled on here by someone. (also owned one a long time ago when i was young and dumb)

I am on this board almost daily and have been for two years. Yet i have less than 300 posts. I READ ALOT.

The nice thing about searching is you will find multiple angles of attack for your problem and many multiple personall experiences some from people who may have moved on (forum or car) and won't answer your question by replying.

Ted and Mark can be a bit harsh, but imagine having addressed the same questions over and over again for many years. I think its admirable that they even bother to post in a thread like this much less actually try to help in some direct fashon.

The FSM is also really helpful. I am a mechanical engineer and I find the search and FAQ much more helpful than posting my problem.

In any case, I hope you enjoy the car, that's what this is all about!

 

Well I used the search but got told my college education must suck cuz I trusted the info I got. I would enjoy my car a lot more if I hadn't encountered a series of unfortunate events leading to me buying a lemon. I admit I am young but I'm mostly pissed at myself cuz I took the hard route. It just gets compounded when the people you expect to want to help start having fun making your life more of a hell.

I dont know what I should do. I think I can get my hands on the $1000 to do the rebuild but its gonna take me a couple weeks. I hope the car lasts that long.

 

Ted and Icemark both answered your original questions. Unless I'm missing something...

You violated a forum rule (posting without searching or reading FAQs) and yet they still tried to help you. What are you complaining about?

iSP33D-for-J3SUS

 

"I DON'T KNOW WHAT WE'RE YELLING ABOUT!"

Sorry, first thing that came to mind reading this thread.

But seriously, like I always say, start cheap. It's much cheaper to replace some hoses and a water pump than it is to rebuild a motor. Even if you replace the water pump and it doesn't solve the problem, bright side is that you know you have a good pump now and you can reuse it on the new motor.

 

Thanks evil eagle for the help. My reall problem is with a bad water seal. I will rebuild and port once I can get the money but in the mean time I am gonna try the band aid.

Ice Mark never got back to me about why crc was a bad idea metalurgically. I think I am still gonna try it since after reading some posts engine rebuilds weren't made much more difficult by the residue left in the sytem. The real problem seemed to be keeping the heater core in good shape but thats easy enough to block off and take out of the equation. Other conerns would be turbi passages but since I'm NA I dont really care. It doesn't seem like much of a risk. Mark if you have some wisdom and evidence contradictory to this please share.

 

The only real problem I can see there is if the size of the gap is large then you could potentially have chunks and hotspots. If the seal is actually blown out and missing then you might have a large hole there, whereas if it's simply depressed then you have a small hole. If it's depressed you're talking about using crc to bond aluminum... to iron... to rubber... If it's a large hole you run the risk of it just not working at all or creating chunks in your cooling system, wrecking the radiator, etc. etc. If it solidifies halfway over the hole and then breaks off, imagine chunks of metal flowing through your coolant system, that's hell on your poor radiator.

I don't know about you all, but I wouldn't wanna try it.

 

To add to what evileaglesaid, basically the block weld trick is a last ditch effort to keep the car from totally dieing(sp). It isnt gauranteed to work and can damage other things. You need to make 100% sure that you have an internal coolant leak before you do it.
One thing you need to know about these cars is that they are between 14 and 20 years old, so things break on them. If the previous owner took good care of it, like mine did, then its all been replaced. If they didnt take good care of it, then you have to do it. Most of the stuff on these cars is fairly easy to fix, just dont let it get you down while your fixing it.

 

I'm pretty sure none of the cars previous owners didn't take care of the car. I am going to verify its internal but it seems to have the signs. I guess I will investigate more. The radiator leak stop seems like a safer first step since it obviously wont damage the rad.

Has anyone ever tried an O-ring material that isn't as sensitive to overheating as the oem ones? Perhaps using a copper ring instead?