2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Some intake setup questions

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Old Jul 5, 2007 | 09:58 AM
  #26  
Ice_Wolf's Avatar
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Well, considering for probably 50 bucks I could make the exact same thing, I'm not going to be spending 300. Spend the money if you want, but I'll take the other 250 and stick it into something else for the car.
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Old Jul 5, 2007 | 10:07 AM
  #27  
KillaKitiie's Avatar
Bongolio
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From: visalia,california
Originally Posted by Ice_Wolf
The Mariah box is good, but ****, for 300 dollars I'd rather rape my own ***.

When I removed the 5th and 6th port actuators, sleeves, and rods, the car picked up a little more topend power, but lost a little low-end torque.
Yep its one or the other and since the car makes no torque anyway i went for the high end also were the car would be most of the time anyway!
Now i dont know what you think about the TB mod but remember this,anything you unrestrict from the intake will increase the air flow. I removed mine just becuase if it wasnt needed and took up space i wanted it gone. car drove the same afterward. also try porting out a spare TB and see what you can do. I got mine quite a bit bigger than stock but again took me two TB's before i got one that worked pretty good.

All this add's up to very quick throttle response and better topend.. But dont try to have me prove it becuase i cant, try it and see for yourself.

Also try freeing up your accesories like your a.c bracket and any extra pullies your not using ditch em!
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Old Jul 5, 2007 | 10:35 AM
  #28  
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No rotary, no problems?
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I did the TB mod and removed my 5th and 6th port stuff also for the same reason. I wanted a car that was going to be top-end power because when I race, that's where the engine is running most of the time. I removed all of the stuff for the reason too that I didn't think it was needed. The car may be a little harder to drive once it's warmed up, but it has no problems starting and idling. I removed my AC and PS and emissions to free up power too. Yes, all this does equate to a very quick throttle response. My friends are pretty surprised at how quickly the car reacts to when you hit the gas pedal. I think I might end up buying a S5 intake setup since I've seen no other better way to go. I've been looking at those aftermarket ones listed above, but I haven't found anyone that's actually purchased them and used them. Also, they are pretty damn pricey. I'll of course be porting my intake setup too.
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Old Jul 5, 2007 | 03:31 PM
  #29  
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If the ports are working properly, isn't the airflow the same whether you remove the actuators or not?
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Old Jul 5, 2007 | 04:19 PM
  #30  
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No rotary, no problems?
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From: Dubuque, IA
IMO no. I had working 5th and 6th ports and after removing them, I noticed more of a top end gain, but also a low end torque loss.
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Old Jul 5, 2007 | 06:05 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Roen
what exactly did you do to gain the topend power?
I think the top end gain (10-15 HP) he was talking about was from putting an s5 manifold on an s4 car.
As for the small gains he is talking about, from what I have read it actually does happen, but only if you remove the entire 6PI system (actuators, sleeves, actuator rods inside LIM) and not just wire open the aux ports. The actuator rods, or whatever you call the things that go inside the runners of the LIM to rotate the sleeve, cause turbulence in the runners and can cause some power loss at high rpms. This is one of the reasons that it is not recommended to do an aux bridge but keep the actuators operational.
How much effect this has on a stock port engine, I have no idea, but I have been told it does make a difference on a bridge.
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Old Jul 5, 2007 | 09:14 PM
  #32  
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ah, i see now. Thanks for pointing out that difference.

I guess for me, being still concerned with the street, i'm scared the car will feel gutless with the ports open below 4k.
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Old Jul 6, 2007 | 02:06 PM
  #33  
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No rotary, no problems?
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From: Dubuque, IA
The gain I'm talking about is just from removing the 6 port system including the actuators, rods, sleeves, and split air pipe. You do lose some power below 3500 RPM, but the top end gain is very nice. If I did the S5 intake setup, I'd probably be able to pick up 10-15 HP.

Looking at most of those manifolds, they are made for carbed setups or ITB setups and not for just normal street use. It looks like my only way to go is a S5 intake setup and just port out the TB and manifolds. Does anyone have a write-up for the S4 to S5 intake swap?
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Old Jul 9, 2007 | 01:16 PM
  #34  
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No rotary, no problems?
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From: Dubuque, IA
I've decided that I'm going to build this for an intake setup:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.ph...0&page=5&pp=15

I'll probably be using the same type of setup, but will probably widen out the inner fender hole in order to let more air in. Not sure if I'm going to do that lower pipe setup or not because I don't want to block the air that's cooling the brakes down. I'll be making the box out of aluminum and putting a rubber seal around the top of it so that it seals tightly when the hood is shut. I'll probably use a K&N cone filter and use ABS plumbing pipe to connect the filter to the TB since it's easy to cut, is cheap, and doesn't heatsoak like a metal intake will. I'll be doing the S5 AFM swap for this intake along with swapping to the S5 intake manifolds. Should work out pretty nicely and should be a 15 HP increase or so compared to my stock S4 setup.
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Old Jul 10, 2007 | 09:56 AM
  #35  
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From: NYC/T.O.
need new thread link.....
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 11:26 AM
  #36  
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No rotary, no problems?
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From: Dubuque, IA
Alright, I did some searching and read about the S5 intake swap. Many people say the S4 LIM flows better than the S5 LIM. Also, apparently you can use the S5 LIM if you have one, but the S4 LIM is required if you are keeping emissions. The only bitch of a task appears to activating the VDI correctly. Here is where I got my info:

http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_w...=119&co=1&vi=1

Also, I read about the AFM to MAF swap on there. Although it looks nice, it appears it's going to be a pain in the *** to make it work, so I'm thinking of just doing the S5 AFM conversion instead of using my S4 AFM. I know the S5 one functions much better than the S4.
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Old Jul 11, 2007 | 11:02 PM
  #37  
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No rotary, no problems?
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From: Dubuque, IA
Time to wrap this all up.

S4 to S5 AFM swap, pretty self explanatory how things swap:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...4me/s5ins4.jpg

Intake setup I will be using:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.ph...0&page=5&pp=15

I will be using the same setup but will probably widen out the inner fender hole in order to let more air in. Not sure if I'm going to do that lower pipe setup or not because I don't want to block the air that's cooling the brakes down. I'll be making the box out of aluminum and putting a rubber seal around the top of it so that it seals tightly when the hood is shut. I'll probably use a K&N cone filter and use ABS plumbing pipe to connect the filter to the TB since it's easy to cut, is cheap, and doesn't heatsoak like a metal intake will. And obviously to connect it all together use hose clamps and rubber sleeves.

S4 UIM to S5 UIM swap, including VDI, fuel, and vacuum hookups:

http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_w...=119&co=1&vi=1

That should sum up my intake setup in a nutshell. Thanks for all the help guys.
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