i just want to know how long did it take to remove your subframe and how did you get the job done.. i have the factory manual but i want to hear some first hand accounts.. thanks maybe someone knows some tips to stop me from dropping a subframe on myself althought i know some people would like to see that on here.

 

alot of the difficulty will depend on how rusted/old the bolts are connecting it, and if you have air tools. asuming you are doing it with hand tools, if everything comes off easy 1 1/2 hours to get it all off. if you are fighting stuck bolts, it could be an all day affair, since the ones on the front diff mount are pretty tough to get to and damn near imposible to get off if stuck (at least by hand).

get the wheels off, loosen the front bolts and the sub link, let it drop a few inches to expose the diff mount bolts, put a jack under it, get the diff mount off, then drop it all the way with the jack.

you will need about 2 feet (seriously) of ratchet extensions to get to diff bolts, since they cant be accesed from below with a closed-end.

 

maybe one 1 hour - hour and a half; to drop the rear subframe and diff if you have not done it before.

 

thank you

 

jackstands are your friend, stick them all over the place so you don't hurt yourself .

 

Ive droped a bunch myself. Its not that hard. One suggestion i have is when you have everything disconnected, and your scratching your head becuase the subframe is magicly just staying up, wipe a liltte neverseize on the studes and pry the frame down slowly onto a jack.

sometimes the frame will bind up on the studs if not droped down evenly. However have no fear, its actualy a very easy job

-Jacob

 

Woohoo, I get to do this tomorrow!

 

yea easy and if it gets stuck just hammer the mother ****** out of there worked for me

Semper Fi Devil Dog

 

The hard part is getting the subframe back up.

 

this really needs to be in the FAQ section (cue the moderators) :-) how to remove rear subframe

 

It is, it is found in the links for the FSM that are in the FAQ for FC sticky thread.

 

Like they said, use lots of jackstands. If you don't have a transmission jack, hold the diff with a 2x8 supported by 2 jackstands.

When reinstalling you'll want to get the diff & subframe lined up and then attach the diff to the subframe before you mount it. Otherwise you won't have room to get a wrench up there to re-attach the rubber diff mount to the subframe.

You may have raise & lower the diff & subframe a few times to get everything lined up, which means loosing the diff-subframe mount bolts.

Don't forget to get an allignment once this is done.

 

Don't forget to move brake lines out of the way everything else is semi simple but getting it back up is the hard part.

here are some pics

 

don't forget the e brake lines.........we put it on a lift and placed a heavy duty fack underneath and it just dropped.......reinstalling it the same way is a bitch though.....

 

i've done it, my car was rusty, took me 1 hour to get it out, 2 hours to swap the t2 diff in and put it back up, air tools are your friend here.

heres the bolts that hold the diff on

 

i just tried to put mine back in and what a bitch !!! I failed t do so tonight but ithe morning hsfuckers going in. the jack stands ere a little off and the car almost, fell to the floor those oyu with lifts are soo lucky

 

yeah.........good luck.

 

To get mine back up, I sat the subfram on two long boards, one under the front section and one under the rear section. I then put that on 3 moving rollers I had, and slowly added more boards and bricks underneath. This allowed me to get it aligned by rolling it around, and raising it slowly. And I could do it by myself.

 

ingenious........