Terrh

iTrader: (7)

Engine runs. starts (reasonably) easily. Pulls hard. No funny noises.

Compression numbers: 12/12/12 front, 12/12/12 rear (PSI). WTF! Brand new compression tester.

Audible compresson/wind out the spark plug holes passes with FLYING colors. Solid WOOSH WOOSH WOOSH sounds, moves a ton of wind.

engine was detonated just previously to this.

Ruined apex seal springs maybe? I'm guessing at this point the engine has to be pulled.

Icemark

sounds like compression check was not done correctly if you are getting 12 PSI on each face on each rotor and still pulls hard

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

the needle just hardly moves and only builds to 12PSI in the end.

The car still pulled as hard as it did pre-detonation, at least 90% of the power if not all.

I should mention it was overrevved too.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

what if you put your finger over the spark plug hole and get someone to roll the engine over,..if it feels strong (because 80 psi will feel strong..merely example #).then it's your New Tester ..Terrh..you got another engine to test that tester..(lol)..should be able to fart more than 12psi!!

ilike2eatricers

How are you doing the test? Describe the exact procedure? WOT?

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

(upper) intake and exhaust manifolds are gone, so there is no throttle to even open.

All apex seals appear intact through the exhaust ports.

2 plugs in the trailing holes, compression tester in one leading.. I know how to do a compression test and I'm reasonably sure that the numbers are accurate.

I'm sure there is an issue with the motor, my question is what you guys think the issue is.

Icemark

Compression tester in the trailings... not leadings

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

If it really was 12psi on both, I don't think you'd get it to start, much less idle.

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

well.. it did lol
it idled fine, too - aside from a misfire now and then - it will be like
-----------------/\----/\--------------------------------------------/\------------------

it's really 12psi. Or certainly "very low"

I'm asking how/why the numbers would be like this, and if (possibly) there are remedies that don't involve rebuilding the motor - or if there aren't, what failed.

I can check again but the number is so low it barely even moves the needle on my compression tester. I thought the tester might be faulty so I returned it and got another (yay walmart lol) - the new one reads the same as the old.I suppose I could get it to run pretty easily if I tossed an upper intake manifold and MAF on it- but I don't see the point as I'm pretty sure the engine will need to be rebuilt, just asking if that's the issue for sure or not.

anyone is welcome to come out here and compression test it themselves! lol

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Ya sure the gauge was reading PSI?

sar

iTrader: (1)

If it still pulls just like it did and "strong" why do you have it so much apart? Every detonation doesn't mean your car is broken. What's in a number if you're still enjoying the car as you did before the number?

Like other people said, if it has only 12psi then it wouldn't start, idle, or pull.

Does it smoke anything more than normal? Do you have the other spark plug removed? Is the tester all the way in the hole?

Why are you looking to rebuild your engine? Port it? It is not practically possible to fix any of the internal engine parts without taking it apart.

I've gotten bad readings on my car before too, 30psi, but then again I had just driven 30miles, a 350 mile highway trip, and had acceleration close to an s2000 on a track (i'm NA).