2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

So it started doing this a week ago. Lasts about 1 minute each time.

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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 01:33 PM
  #1  
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So it started doing this a week ago. Lasts about 1 minute each time.

I know, I post a lot. I seem to have very bad luck(in my eyes at least).

The motor was rebuilt by the PO 10k ago.

It just started doing this a week ago(only on "full cool down" starts), after I did an oil change. I used the same oil (20w50 Castrol). Although I did use this new "motor honey" bullshit that my friend gave me for free.

Motor does not, nor has it ever overheated. Even when the water pump gasket **** the bed, I caught it well before it overheated (shut the car off at 208* F)

Basically started this thread seeking advice from my rx7 peers. What do you guys think I should do from here? The car is my daily, so regardless, I have to drive it. I am buying a daily soon though.









http://www.flickr.com/photos/100834448@N02/9920066103/http://www.flickr.com/photos/100834448@N02/9920066103/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/100834448@N02/, on Flickr

Last edited by beachFC; Sep 24, 2013 at 01:40 PM.
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 05:49 PM
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smells? looks like oil seals. unless its coolant????
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by midnightbluefc
smells? looks like oil seals. unless its coolant????
Oil, does not smell like coolant at all. Also car doesn't overheat at ALL. And I drive 21 miles to, and from work every day on the 605(mostly first/second gear ~10 mph for 7 of the 21 miles). Doesn't even slightly get hot.
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 06:45 PM
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when my car was NA i had a wierd issue like that as well. it would drive fine pull hard and every so often i would be engulfed in oil smoke in the cockpit. compression was fine ended up being a failed oil control ring that was beginning to intermittently fail.
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by midnightbluefc
when my car was NA i had a wierd issue like that as well. it would drive fine pull hard and every so often i would be engulfed in oil smoke in the cockpit. compression was fine ended up being a failed oil control ring that was beginning to intermittently fail.

Well it only does it in the morning. Doesn't happen at all when driving.

I also held the RPM's at 6,000 for like 20 seconds, and barely seen a TRACE of smoke.

Not sure what the deal is
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 07:33 PM
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i would change the oil and go with something thinner.

sounds like the end plates have some wear and the thicker oil is seeping down into the engine when you shut it off.

usually if the smoke occurs after the engine is fully warm and running a light weight oil i would recommend thicker oil.

there's an old say: "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." if a problem exists after a change, change it back.
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Old Sep 28, 2013 | 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
i would change the oil and go with something thinner.

sounds like the end plates have some wear and the thicker oil is seeping down into the engine when you shut it off.

usually if the smoke occurs after the engine is fully warm and running a light weight oil i would recommend thicker oil.

there's an old say: "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." if a problem exists after a change, change it back.
Okay, so I waited until there was some room, and threw in some 5w20 in to thin the 20w50/"motor honey"

Hasn't smoked in 2 days.

Also wondering if maybe the seal has split? Only letting oil seep in when the split is exposed???

Possible?
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Old Sep 28, 2013 | 06:32 PM
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10k is not enough mileage for the seals to become brittle enough to crack, excessive heat and age would be the only other contributing factors. i've seen OEM seals begin to burn oil in as little as 10 years but it's unlikely your o-rings are done already. uneven wear on the plates is a possibility, as is small chips in the oil seal cases if they were reused, or if they were severely worn then they will chew up the center area of the irons.
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Old Oct 2, 2013 | 03:55 PM
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So it didn't smoke for 4-5 days.

Today I got in, started it up, and poof... Smoke once again -___-
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Old Oct 2, 2013 | 08:41 PM
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From: denvah
Actually dump the oil and replace it with 10w-30 when you get the chance. Oil filter too. Why the change to a heavier weight and just before the cool season?
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Old Oct 2, 2013 | 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by NativeBeggars
Actually dump the oil and replace it with 10w-30 when you get the chance. Oil filter too. Why the change to a heavier weight and just before the cool season?
Actually have been using 20w50 for a good 6 months.. Never added the "motor honey" before though :x
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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 05:59 PM
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From: denvah
I would say 20w-50 is good for these if you live in a really hot climate that is hot pretty consistently throughout the year, but 10w-30 is your best bet for sure. Motor Honey is meant to be used in piston engines and wasn't even tested for rotary use.
Remember that regardless of whether you use the OMP or you premix, you must introduce oil into the active chamber to lubricate things. Motor Honey was designed and tested for use in an engine that isn't supposed to burn oil. Dump it all out REALLY well. Get some conventional Pennzoil 10w-30 and a Bosch filter [#3312] Your capacity should be 4.4L so save some to add to later.
I agree with Karack in that if you notice a problem after a change, change it back. I also agree with his idea that if the oil doesn't solve the problem to consider engine wear on the irons and oil control rings.
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Old Oct 4, 2013 | 05:53 PM
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it sounds like iron wear, since the position of the rotors on shutdown is the determining factor as to if it will pool oil in the engine overnight or not(seep past the rotor oil seals). sounds like the irons were too poor for a proper rebuild.

change back to your old oil and see if it at least gets better. motor honey has some funky viscosity properties and may be allowing the oil to drain past the rotors.

Last edited by RotaryEvolution; Oct 4, 2013 at 05:55 PM.
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Old Oct 4, 2013 | 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
it sounds like iron wear, since the position of the rotors on shutdown is the determining factor as to if it will pool oil in the engine overnight or not(seep past the rotor oil seals). sounds like the irons were too poor for a proper rebuild.

change back to your old oil and see if it at least gets better. motor honey has some funky viscosity properties and may be allowing the oil to drain past the rotors.
Definitely will do.

Should I be super worried at all, or can I run this engine for another couple years?(T2 swapping soon, so not actually going to, just wondering)
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Old Oct 4, 2013 | 06:12 PM
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if it's just smoking some on startup i wouldn't worry too much about it.
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Old Oct 4, 2013 | 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
if it's just smoking some on startup i wouldn't worry too much about it.
But you would worry a little though?
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Old Oct 5, 2013 | 11:50 AM
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dude, just ******* drive the thing.
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Old Oct 5, 2013 | 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by SirCygnus
dude, just ******* drive the thing.
Welllllll I do.

About 60 miles a day
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Old Oct 5, 2013 | 12:31 PM
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From: denvah
Nice man, me too. Hahah gotta keep it in tip-top shape!
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