So it started doing this a week ago. Lasts about 1 minute each time.
09-24-13, 01:33 PM
#1
So it started doing this a week ago. Lasts about 1 minute each time.
I know, I post a lot. I seem to have very bad luck(in my eyes at least).
The motor was rebuilt by the PO 10k ago.
It just started doing this a week ago(only on "full cool down" starts), after I did an oil change. I used the same oil (20w50 Castrol). Although I did use this new "motor honey" bullshit that my friend gave me for free.
Motor does not, nor has it ever overheated. Even when the water pump gasket **** the bed, I caught it well before it overheated (shut the car off at 208* F)
Basically started this thread seeking advice from my rx7 peers. What do you guys think I should do from here? The car is my daily, so regardless, I have to drive it. I am buying a daily soon though.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/100834448@N02/9920066103/http://www.flickr.com/photos/100834448@N02/9920066103/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/100834448@N02/, on Flickr
The motor was rebuilt by the PO 10k ago.
It just started doing this a week ago(only on "full cool down" starts), after I did an oil change. I used the same oil (20w50 Castrol). Although I did use this new "motor honey" bullshit that my friend gave me for free.
Motor does not, nor has it ever overheated. Even when the water pump gasket **** the bed, I caught it well before it overheated (shut the car off at 208* F)
Basically started this thread seeking advice from my rx7 peers. What do you guys think I should do from here? The car is my daily, so regardless, I have to drive it. I am buying a daily soon though.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/100834448@N02/9920066103/http://www.flickr.com/photos/100834448@N02/9920066103/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/100834448@N02/, on Flickr
Last edited by beachFC; 09-24-13 at 01:40 PM.
09-24-13, 06:45 PM
#4
when my car was NA i had a wierd issue like that as well. it would drive fine pull hard and every so often i would be engulfed in oil smoke in the cockpit. compression was fine ended up being a failed oil control ring that was beginning to intermittently fail.
09-24-13, 07:33 PM
#6
i would change the oil and go with something thinner.
sounds like the end plates have some wear and the thicker oil is seeping down into the engine when you shut it off.
usually if the smoke occurs after the engine is fully warm and running a light weight oil i would recommend thicker oil.
there's an old say: "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." if a problem exists after a change, change it back.
sounds like the end plates have some wear and the thicker oil is seeping down into the engine when you shut it off.
usually if the smoke occurs after the engine is fully warm and running a light weight oil i would recommend thicker oil.
there's an old say: "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." if a problem exists after a change, change it back.
09-28-13, 06:11 PM
#7
i would change the oil and go with something thinner.
sounds like the end plates have some wear and the thicker oil is seeping down into the engine when you shut it off.
usually if the smoke occurs after the engine is fully warm and running a light weight oil i would recommend thicker oil.
there's an old say: "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." if a problem exists after a change, change it back.
sounds like the end plates have some wear and the thicker oil is seeping down into the engine when you shut it off.
usually if the smoke occurs after the engine is fully warm and running a light weight oil i would recommend thicker oil.
there's an old say: "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." if a problem exists after a change, change it back.
Hasn't smoked in 2 days.
Also wondering if maybe the seal has split? Only letting oil seep in when the split is exposed???
Possible?
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09-28-13, 06:32 PM
#8
10k is not enough mileage for the seals to become brittle enough to crack, excessive heat and age would be the only other contributing factors. i've seen OEM seals begin to burn oil in as little as 10 years but it's unlikely your o-rings are done already. uneven wear on the plates is a possibility, as is small chips in the oil seal cases if they were reused, or if they were severely worn then they will chew up the center area of the irons.
10-03-13, 05:59 PM
#12
I would say 20w-50 is good for these if you live in a really hot climate that is hot pretty consistently throughout the year, but 10w-30 is your best bet for sure. Motor Honey is meant to be used in piston engines and wasn't even tested for rotary use.
Remember that regardless of whether you use the OMP or you premix, you must introduce oil into the active chamber to lubricate things. Motor Honey was designed and tested for use in an engine that isn't supposed to burn oil. Dump it all out REALLY well. Get some conventional Pennzoil 10w-30 and a Bosch filter [#3312] Your capacity should be 4.4L so save some to add to later.
I agree with Karack in that if you notice a problem after a change, change it back. I also agree with his idea that if the oil doesn't solve the problem to consider engine wear on the irons and oil control rings.
Remember that regardless of whether you use the OMP or you premix, you must introduce oil into the active chamber to lubricate things. Motor Honey was designed and tested for use in an engine that isn't supposed to burn oil. Dump it all out REALLY well. Get some conventional Pennzoil 10w-30 and a Bosch filter [#3312] Your capacity should be 4.4L so save some to add to later.
I agree with Karack in that if you notice a problem after a change, change it back. I also agree with his idea that if the oil doesn't solve the problem to consider engine wear on the irons and oil control rings.
10-04-13, 05:53 PM
#13
it sounds like iron wear, since the position of the rotors on shutdown is the determining factor as to if it will pool oil in the engine overnight or not(seep past the rotor oil seals). sounds like the irons were too poor for a proper rebuild.
change back to your old oil and see if it at least gets better. motor honey has some funky viscosity properties and may be allowing the oil to drain past the rotors.
change back to your old oil and see if it at least gets better. motor honey has some funky viscosity properties and may be allowing the oil to drain past the rotors.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 10-04-13 at 05:55 PM.
10-04-13, 06:00 PM
#14
it sounds like iron wear, since the position of the rotors on shutdown is the determining factor as to if it will pool oil in the engine overnight or not(seep past the rotor oil seals). sounds like the irons were too poor for a proper rebuild.
change back to your old oil and see if it at least gets better. motor honey has some funky viscosity properties and may be allowing the oil to drain past the rotors.
change back to your old oil and see if it at least gets better. motor honey has some funky viscosity properties and may be allowing the oil to drain past the rotors.
Should I be super worried at all, or can I run this engine for another couple years?(T2 swapping soon, so not actually going to, just wondering)
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