I had my first experience with a dyno yesterday... It was fun. OK so back ground info....

I have an 87 N/A FC. When i bought it it wouldnt even idle. Replaced a few vacum hoses, belts, and other things youd do for a tune up. Threw on a k&n cone filter, gutted the cats, and left it alone... This was in March of this year. So i get to the shop and up on the dyno, im expecting high 90's to low 100's if that. She pulls a 138rwhp and 123 torque. I was impressed.... I noticed when looking at the chart that she leans out bad just around 3400 rpm, so i guess i gotta get sleeves from pienapple and do that intake mod that is mentioned in the beefy N/A thread. All in all, im happy with my starting point. I found an RB header and im going to custom fab a 2.5 inch exhaust from there. No cats, no pre's, just a single at the end of the pipe. Aiming for a 220rwhp, 500 budget build. But hey, we'll see what happens

 

Ok quick question.... When replacing the stock exhaust with an Rb header or similar. You can remove all the smog stuff, the aiir pump and so on. I already have the PS and AC off, the exhaust side is where im focused. When i remove the cats and exhaust, take off the air pump. Will the six ports still work? I was going to buy the sleeves from pineapple racing to go in there, but why spend 50 bucks if its gonna be useless after i remove the cluter in my engine bay?

 

You won't hit 220RWHP.

Maybe 180HP if you are lucky.

The moment you de-cork the exhaust the aux ports will cease to function. Retain the air pump and use pressure from the pump to open the ports.

 

Doesnt racing beat sell a straight pipe with the flange for the backpressure pipe? I guess your point is that it wont create enough backpressure, huh?

 

Why would improving airflow through the aux. ports remove a lean spot? First of all, they aren't even open at 3400 RPM, and second you would need to use something like an SAFC to increase injector duty cycle and richen it up in that area. The sleeves may get you a minimal top-end gain, but it's not at all related to a lean spot at 3400 RPM. If you do buy them, make sure you use the proper kind of loctite, so they don't come loose inside your engine.

Their presilencers have a pick-up tube, which is supposed to work in an open exhaust system. No idea if it actually does. My ports never worked with a hollow cat, but the tube may have been too large.

 

Rotary thats good to know. Deffinately wouldnt want anything coming lose in the engine. Pineapple and some of the people on the forum that have the sleeves seemed to think they were well worth the 50 bucks, but i dunno? I am in the process of acquiring the following for my 500 dollar budget build.

SAFC - 80
MBC - 30
boost and air fuel gauge - 30
oil lines
"stock" turbo - 100
fuel pump (T2 or wlaboro) - 40
injector (550) - 50 ish
header (if i can find one cheap, if not ....) - (125 so far)
2.5' exhaust piping - custom
all the fittings required for the turbo and oil lines -
oil pump - 100
oil cooler (optional, but prob a safe bet) - 30
1.5' turbo piping (maybe up to 2?) - custom

Im sitting at 460 (header not included) already and still dont have prices for alot of the stuff...

and im sure im forgetting something since im not looking at my list.
Im sourcing most of my stuff used. The oil lines are looking to be my most expensive piece.
Gotta do a junyard run this weekend and see if i can find something to help me lower cost...

 

So, you're intending to build a 6-port turbo. There are a number of other things required, such as a custom spacer to fit the stock turbo with the NA intake manifolds. You should check the FAQ for detailed info.

Also, a header won't work if you have a turbo bolted up. You need a downpipe. And I'm not sure why you put oil cooler on the list. NA and turbo oil coolers are identical, and are very good. Same goes for an oil pump.

 

Wow...you need to put that money back in your piggy bank and read/learn more.

 

There is so much wrong with that plan it is easier to list the stuff you have correct:

-header (if i can find one cheap, if not ....) - (125 so far)
-2.5' exhaust piping - custom

 

Oil coolers are identical but the turbo has a larger oil pump.

 

Oh, you just had to correct me. I did not know that.

 

When he says "oil pump", I think he is referring to an oil return pump as he intends to mount the turbo out back where the muffler is mounted. He sent me a PM with that information...Presumably he could be referring to a cooler specifically for the turbo but with plans this mixed up it's impossible to guess...

 

^ Ah, ok. I thought $100 sounded way too high for a used oil pump.

 

Being a pedant is hard work but somebody has to do it.

 

 

lol @ remote mount setup for $500...

 

220 when he hits the NAAAAWWWSSSSS button!!!!

 

I did a comlpete 6 port turbo set up for a little over 500 once before. got hook ups on parts though...

and once again turboed a 4 port for just UNDER 500. its very do-able. but that list is all wrong...

 

Search more.

 

138 wheel hp? I thought s4 n/a's made 140 flywheel?
I'm sure I misread/didn't read something.

 

just keep it N/A

 

With your budget, I'd stick with NA. And when you free up the exhaust flow by gutting the cats,, it tends to go lean. The port sleeves and header will yield miniscule power increases especially if the housings aren't ported. A n/a header flows better than the stock exhaust manifold, but without porting and fuel mods it's pointless. Find out why it's lean at 3400, whether it's a vacuum leak, dirty injectors, AFM, coolant sensor or whatever. Then perhaps add the SAFC and a wideband (not the cheapo a/f ratio narrowband crap) so you can add more fuel. Then re-evaluate your power needs and go from there.

 

RMT that bitch!

Let us know how it turns out and post the Dyno graph!

Good Luck!

 

well i intend to.. if i ever get around to sourcing all the parts. I would like a lil clarification on why everything on the list is wrong, instead of its just wrong. Seems itd be a bit more productive to offer a solution along with your critisism than just say nope wont work... but maybe thats just me. All the parts im getting are either second hand or discounted. I have the dyno sheet for the 1st trip, i just dont have a scanner and im not sure how well a camera phone pic would work but i'll try and get the original dyno sheet up.

As far as the search more comments. All ive seen is people bashing the remote mount... No actual help or information, just opinions and speculation. So what exactly am i searching for?

The oil cooler is indeed for the turbo. The oil pump is also for the remote setup. I figured if i build an oil sump for the turbo, it would be cheaper than running 12 feet of oil lines.... but i havent figured out where id mount it yet... I was told that the injectors in the car would support the fuel need at 220 horsepower, but i wanted to get bigger injectors just to stay on the safe side. The SAFC is for finding and fixing the lean at 3400 issue, as well as supporting the fuel needed for boost. Lots of people dont like the RMT, and thats fine. If it cant be done then it cant be done, but i'll find out. Cides if it blows up, ill throw a v8 in it and still be like everyone else in end.

THIS IS JUST FOR FUN! so relax.

 

There is quite a lot wrong with your post.

For example, I don't know where you are getting your prices. I guess you could find a used boost and A/F gauge for $30 but that is going to be a difficult task. The cheapest widebands sell new for about $300. Even a used wideband will need a new sensor and you're looking at around $100 at the local auto parts store for the appropriate part.

The last thing you want to do is run a manual boost controller (or any kind of boost controller really) on the stock turbo. With such a small and poorly designed wastegate it will create very non-linear boost control.

Where you would get 550CC injectors for $50 is a mystery. They are quite in demand and generally sell for $50 each.

1.5" turbo piping is ridiculously small. Especially if you want to put the turbo at the back of the car. 2.5" would be minimum to minimize losses with piping that long. 2" would be reasonable if the turbo was mounted in the engine bay.

Now the major flaw in this plan is remote mounting the stock turbo. First and foremost, remote mounted turbos DO NOT WORK AS WELL AS A PROPERLY MOUNTED TURBO AT THE ENGINE. I don't care who argues, or what the companies selling these kits say. The fact is that turbochargers run as much on the thermal difference between the exhaust ports and the downpipe as they do on raw airflow. Look at all the remote mount kits and you find two things in common: tiny hotsides and big displacement engines. Big displacement engines already have a lot of low end grunt so turbo lag is less noticeable. The small hotsides are used to spool the turbo quicker and these engines have a far lower RPM range then the rotary.

The stock turbo is designed with a turbine side appropriate to how it is mounted (to an exhaust manifold at the engine). If you move it out back, it will be lag city. If you go to a turbo with a smaller hotside, it will choke the engine up top.