Everything checked out ok except for a few pins on the ecu...and im curious whether these are a problem or if they would contribute to my car's popping and lean mix and rough idle

1H, the leading coil timing signal was .7v instead of .8v

pin 1v, the trailing coil ignition confirmation signal is only 1v at idle (didn't check with just the ignition to on) when it is supposed to be approx. 4v.

pin 2L, at about 200 or 205 my IAT on the engine is reading 2.9v when the spec is 1v-2v. when the engine gets hotter doesn't the voltage drop?

This one concerns me- when i was checking my crank angle sensor pins i realized that the wire colors (red,black,white) weren't in the right ecu pin locations. (red was in the white wire pin location, white in the black wire pin etc.) But all their voltage was in spec. Also i don't have a black wire its a blue wire...

only 2 more things, pin 3q the bac valve, was 10.5v instead of 8v, is this a problem and does it explain my idle at 1000 or 1200 depending on how my car feels when it starts XD

and finally 3m the pressure regulator control solenoid pin, was functioning perfectly, but i noticed when it switched from below 2v. to 12v it was idling like its supposed to, and at that very moment my car would start popping and running rough.

When i start my car 3/4 times it will run perfect until about 20 or more sec later where something switches or turns on and my wideband shoots up 3 AFR to like 20-21 from 18 and my car starts to get popping in the exhaust and a rough idle.... I have a steeetport and this is with the fuel controller off, when i put it to +20-25% (to about 17-18 AFR) the idle smooths out but it still pops...just not as bad

thanks for reading my post!

 

anyone know if these would cause any problems? or rather, if they wouldn't?

 

the hot start solenoid raises the fuel pressure by cutting vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator. It should be grounded (under 2v) if the IAT sensor for the intake manifold reads a high enough temperature. The solenoid will only stay active for a little while though.

The BAC valve and stuff for the ignition system all use a waveform signal and really need an oscilloscope to be checked accurately.

 

i see....thanks for the info...

speaking of ignition i read that the trailing coil can fire incorrectly if the confirmation signal isn't being sent to the ecu...so thats the 1st thing im going to look into...