the cut is in the computer, it doesn't care what engine you have, 8.6psi is 8.6psi

 

Is your harness a low impedence or high impedence version? Look for the injector resistor box.

 

Low and yes its there

 

Isn't the map sensor the wire you tried to tap into for the SAFC? Put the wiring back to stock and test it out.

 

If you're running a stock tii ecu the fuel cut is the same, the ecu doesn't know what its connected to, it only takes the incoming voltages and assumes its from the sensor it was designed for(aka tii vaf on tii ecu, not n/a vaf on tii ecu). Are you using the stock Tii 2bar map sensor or still using the n/a 1 bar map?

 

N318 tii s4, n327 n/a s4, n350 n/a s5, n370 tii s5.

I have the n318.

Do i need to put on the tii resistor/relay with the heat sink or does it matter?

 

So i started checking my ecu pins and found that injector wires arent all getting power.

Green/red-12v
Green-12v
Green/black-12v
Green/white-. 08v

Ecu, maf, tps, boost sensor all checked out good. I know this for the fact that i put all my parts into a friends and it worked just fine. It actually worked better.

 

So, the green/white stripe wire came disconnected from the butt connector. Boost is good. Now i am having a problem with my battery not holding a charge after i relocated it to the back compartment cubby.

 

Seeing how nobody is responding to this anymore, i guess i will just post all my problems in hopes somebody comes along with a plausible answer.

My car will now start and idle fine, no fuel problems at high rpms. My problem is when it warms up after driving and i let it sit and idle, it will slowly start to drop from 1000 rpms on down til it stalls. I then cannot get it to start back up until it cools down again. Temps are fine, good fuel pressure, getting spark on all plugs, tps is set to 1volt, and no vacuum leaks.

Im at my wits end with this.

 

did you try the hot start process after it dies.....

 

If i did, i cant remember cause ive done so much. What do i need to do?

 

Found that the trailing coil was cutting out as it warmed up. Now i have it driveable and hitting boost. Only getting 4-5 lbs of boost though. Not leaning out or cutting, just low boost.

Only have a downpipe though. Could this cause it to malfunction in boost?

 

Yes! I have the same problem and situation except I'm not running a safc. I just checked the timing and found that the leading and trailing on the front rotor are firing at the same time.

 

How is that possible? How do you fix that issue?

 

Will a junk transmission cause an rx7 to malfunction? By this i mean once its started cold it will run fine then when it warms ul and i drive it, then it loses power, transmission makes noises then it stalls. Wont start now, and the transmission grinds and is noisy to all hell. Just wondering. Im selling it.

 

Idk. I'm gonna replace the trailing coil to see if that helps.
I only have a down pipe so I need to fix that and also the long bolt that bolts the uim to the lim is missing.
My boost controller measures boost but not vacuum.
The transmission makes noise all the time or only when it's hot?

 

All the time. Hook your boost gauge line to the nipple on the top in the front. It pulls vacuum.

 

Ill trade mine for a clean n/a 5 speed though.

 

So you've definitely got a bad transmission but idk think that will cause the engine to not start.
The nipple for the boost sensor?
Where did you hook up the vacuum for the fuel pressure regulator?

 

The nipple where the boost sensor connects to you can run your boost sensor, bov, and fuel pressure regulator. Choose 2. Dont use all three. The nipple on the front use for 2 as well. They both pull good vacuum/pressure.

I did it this way:

Boost gauge and boost sensor connect to nipple that the boost sensor goes to. Nipple on front top connect fuel pressure regulator and bov. Good readings all the way around.

 

I've got my bov and boost sensor hooked up to the nipple where the uim and lim meet, facing the passenger fender.
The boost gauge is hooked up on the uim after the throttle body close to the firewall where this are 3 nipples.(using the top one)

 

Ok took your advise and now my gauge reads -12 at idle.
I also rerouted the fuel pressure regulator to the front of the uim after the throttle body.

 

So does it work now?

 

No but now I know that the problem is when I go into positive boost.
At idle it shows -12 and when i reach 0 its fine but when I go above it backfires and wont go higher.
I suspect a bad boost sensor.
I'm using the n370 sensor but wanna upgrade to the GM 3 bar.

 

Make sure your oil metering pump is working. Limp mode is a killer. Also check your coils and make SURE they are firing.