Alex6969

so does it crank? most likely its flooded, although it is rare for an s5 with that good compression to flood. that sludge that poured out of the motor isn't very reassuring either. have you tried pulling the plugs and cranking all the **** out of the motor out? thats what i had to do to my 86 gxl

Valkyrie

It turns over but it won't fire up. I'm sort of scared to crank the crap out of it with the plugs off, since even with a paper towel over the plug holes, a *lot* of fumes come out of the engine... even with the fuses out. Don't want to start a fire or make a mess in the engine bay...lol

I'm hoping to get it to fire up at least once, and see if it drives right (test the brakes and clutch, and idle, see if it revs...), and then put it back where it was so I can take it apart.

I just hope the harness and everything is alright, seing as how the wiring is 18 years old... don't want to have to replace all that stuff.

Valkyrie

Well I got the hood to close properly at least

I also tried to solder the coolant level sensor, but there simply wasn't enough wire left protruding from the sensor to wire it back up... crap...

Now I'm gonna go check if the car has spark...

adrock3217

Don't skimp on fuses. You will regret it. Get the right fuse.

adrock3217

If the tach is moving when you start it, that is a good thing. While cranking, you should get 200-300 RPM, which you won't be able to "see" exactly, but yeah.

If I were you..

Rip the engine out and apart, and dry all the coolant I am betting is in it. NOW.

Spoolerr

Your rotary will not start with only one rotor having compression, you'd better check both....now!

Valkyrie

Ok, I'll do it as soon as my dad get's back... I've only take the plugs out and put them back about 3 times today

Today I washed the car, and tied down the spare tire with two bunjee cords since it probably would have annoyed the crap out of me later on (I *hate* the sound parts that aren't secured properly make).

Took some more pictures too...lol

Also, the fuse was the right kind.. it's just that the design was aesthetically different... so I pushed a little harder and it went in. Now it goes in and out easily.

For the record, I think there's an oil leak somewhere since it left dripped quite a bit of oil over the tow dolly (hey, at least I got to drive it a little bit... backwards... off the dolly and down a hill...with no power steering )

A friend of my dad's came by to drop off his Harley after it was worked on, and he checked the fuel pump while I turned the car on and said it did *nothing* I assume it's supposed to turn on in the RX7 when you turn the key just like most cars, right? I'm thinking of pulling it and checking the voltage or something later...

Also, it has spark in all four plugs... I checked it earlier today.

For the record, I have two weeks to get it running before I leave for college again

I tried turning it over a bunch with no plugs (or EGI fuses) and it's still spewing out a bit of something that smells like fuel but looks kinda like oil...

And for the record, where the hell is the air bleed valve for the coolant system?

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

Weeelll... You've got to get all that crap out of the combustion chambers! Keep cranking in 10 second bursts until there's no more smoke/crap. Don't worry about a fire, it's not gonna happen.

This will be key in getting it to start. Also, make sure you've got good spark-plugs in there too. Also, drain all that heinous gas and put some fresh gas in there!

Also, inject that MMO or ATF in the spark-plug holes and turn it over a couple times to get a good, clean lube.

Another thing, make sure the timing is restabbed to the 'stock' TDC setting. bad timing can cause a car to *almost* start, but not quite.

Oh, last thing... If you *really* want the car to start, you might have to do a 'compression' start, or push start.

ahhh, ok, last thing; do that compression test again and make sure it'll even be worth it to start it.

Good luck mang,

Valkyrie

The car isn't getting any fuel... otherwise it would have fired up by now. At least on half the engine... lol. I tried to start it with starting fluid, and it *wanted* to start but just wouldn't. If fuel was flowing, I think it would have fired up even with poor compression by now.

I know it has at least some compression on the front rotor, since otherwise I should be able to hear the gap in the sound where it doesn't compress.

I need to look up how to check the fuel pump...

And that fuel is only 3 months old... not old enough to go bad just yet.

I would go do the compression check on the front rotor once and for all, but the battery drained Now I have to wait for it to charge again...

I also took off the rear badges and spray painted them black (with automotive spray paint of course...) since I didn't like how they were white instead of the proper black I put on a second coat and hopefully they'll be back on the car in a few hours.

I also used a bit of degreaser to clean up the engine bay... at least the parts that were *really* greasy.

alexdimen

iTrader: (13)

i wouldn't be so sure... storing motorcycles it's advisable that you drain the carbs and tank even if you're storing for a month... the volatiles in the mixture evaporate out and the less gasoline there is, the shorter it will last. gas in the carbs of a bike supposedly only lasts two weeks. i would think diluting the bad gas would only work if you totally filled up the tank.

and is it just me or are you still ignoring THE BLOWN COOLANT SEAL?!?!?!

Valkyrie

No, I just want to know it RUNS before I rebuild it.

I don't have a hoist yet anyway.

Jager

iTrader: (10)

New gas DOES go a long way. 3 months = blah. When I had to start my RX-7's after storage I always use fresh gas and they are always fine.

Its 10 bucks that will make things go easier.

Valkyrie

Well, I pulled the fuel pump and tested it with the battery, and it's fine (...I think... I hope I didn't fry it... It worked fine when I put it in water, but it sort of just sparked when I wanted to flush the water out), although maybe the reason I couldn't hear anything when I tested it was because it's pretty damn quiet.

I'm gonna test the voltage on the wiring as soon as I can get someone to crank the car for me... hard to get anyone's help at this time in the morning...lol

And if that's fine, I guess the only other option would be the fuel filter, a leak, or maybe it's the compression of the rotor I didn't check... guess I can do that while even if there's no fuel pump right now.

Valkyrie

I did a compression test on the front rotor with a video camera and it showed about 70... But that may be because the battery seems a little low already... (considering I just charged it last night)

I sure hope it isn't 70 when warmed and with a full charge.

And there now seems to be basically no gunk in the engine any more at all.

I'll try using the MMO once I get the fuel pump back in and test whether it's getting voltage or not.

alexdimen

iTrader: (13)

i understand, but the fact that it needs a rebuild in the first place is probably going to stop you from starting it. there is probably still water in the chambers fouling the plugs and rusting the seals in place so they can't have proper contact with the housings to make compression.

pulling this engine and messing with it before you do could mean the difference between you rebuilding this engine and you having to find a rebuildable core and taking this one to the dump.

Valkyrie

Well, my battery drained AGAIN. My dad went to go replace it.... which means I have to wait for it to charge AGAIN.

I'm gonna see if fuel is flowing into the engine when I crank it... if there is, I'll hopefully go straight into the rebuild since I can't think of much else there could be wrong with it, outside of whatever the overheat caused... if there isn't fuel flowing, I don't really know what to do, since the fuses are all fine as far as I know (well I only checked the underhood fuse and the ENGINE fuse).

I DID try jumpering the green (yellow?) plug to get the fuel pump flowing... but I'm not sure whether or not I did it right, since there was still no fuel flowing on the engine side (I've got a small bottle on the end of the line)...

It's the plug that's on the right strut tower next to the pressor sensor, right? And if you jumper this and turn the ignition on, it's supposed to pump fuel, correct?

If it's not a leak or the fuel filter, than I guess I'll need to check the wiring...and trace it all the way back to the ECU or whatever.

And I promise I'll get rebuilding as soon as possible!

I also need to get it registered... only have about 5 more days to do so.

Valkyrie

Replaced the fuel filter - the old one was clogged to hell and back... I could barely blow the gas that was in it out of there.

I'm hoping it'll fire up now (well, once I charge the battery and hook the fuel line back up) that the fuel clog is gone.

Any day is a good day for a gasoline bath

Valkyrie

Not getting any fuel at all... even after cranking it for a good amount of time (tried to get it to flow into a bottle, it didn't).

Maybe I should just hook up the pump to a 12-volt battery to see if it'll fire up then...lol

I wanted to check the voltage on the wiring while cranking, but I think my voltmeter is rated *way* too high for 12V to even register... the minimum is 150V! But for the record, it didn't even budge... but also the connector's ports are so small that you have to hold even a very fine probe onto it instead of just sticking it in.

Can't seem to "prime" the fuel system either... maybe I'm using the wrong connector, but I've tried two and no luck...

DJB5000

I'm in the same exact situation, unproperly stored FC with blown coolant seals, and every reason it should start but it wont, if I get mine started I will be trying this before the rebuild temp coolant seal fix

I'll let you know how it goes if i get there first.

Valkyrie

Since I couldn't attach these earlier, here are my pics from the time I washed the car.

It's already dirty again since one of our cats walked up the hood with dirty paws... damn cat. lol

http://photobucket.com/albums/c337/Busted7/

btw, I already painted the rear badges black

Valkyrie

Well, I *ALMOST* got it to crank after putting some MMO into the spark plug holes...

maybe I should give the push start a try :P

I think the battery might need to be charged again... maybe that's what kept it from starting.

Valkyrie

IT RUNS!!!

MMO + Starting Fluid + Cranking for 20 Seconds = WIN!

Except it has a crazy idle... after the AWS finishes, it went to 1500... and then after that I tried revving it a bit, but then it started revving up and down at 2000 RPMS, about 200 RPMs each way... I wonder what could have caused that.

Blow smoke like a volcano for about 5 minutes though

And then it kept smoking out the left muffler for a while... in fact I'm not sure if it's done yet or not.

I shut it off after the temp gauge went to 3/4ths... then again I did rev it to 3000 RPMS (to get it to stabilize) for a few minutes...

I know there's a coolant leak somewhere... although I couldn't tell whether the white smoke being blown was simply from the MMO, or from a coolant leak. The smoke did pretty much go away though.

A lot of gurglilng, an overfilled overflow bottle, and having the coolant constantly get lower and lower is a sign of a coolant leak, correct?

Valkyrie

Well it did... now I think the battery is kind of low...again.

Either that or it's flooded, since it hasn't fired back up again yet.

digitalsolo

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like a bad coolant seal to me. Rebuild time!

Valkyrie

Hurray, I ordered my parts from Mazdatrix...

I chose ground shipping so I hope it doesn't take too long... since I couldn't tell how much 3-day air would cost, I didn't choose it. I hope just ground shipping doesn't cost TOO much...

I think I'll start pulling the engine tommorow or today after tommorow...

My dad bought a 2000-pound capacity engine stand...lol. Slight overkill...

But he forgot to buy the dial indicator (bought a dial caliper instead of a digital one), and I don't have any decent feeler gauges or a straight edge (the ones he has are far too big to check the clearances on a rotary engine... they're more like for spark plug gaps.

Hope I can get it running before the 5th or so... and well for that matter

Let's just pray I don't need any new side housings