2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

so close yet so far away

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Apr 21, 2011 | 08:47 AM
  #1  
the seventh sign's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Tenured Member 10 Years
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: greensburg indiana
IN so close yet so far away

just got done swapping block and trans w s5 w all my s4 externals in a 88 se. thought i was done but now it cranks and cranks. getting spark and started once squirting gas in through air box tube. could it be timing? thought it was fuel pump but its working. searched threads but couldnt find anything on fuel pumps. it only turns on when cranking car over. is this norm? also read in a couple places about tow starting.... any help would be appreciated. otherwise dont comment. just ready to get my project car done and experience it.
Reply
Old Apr 21, 2011 | 01:02 PM
  #2  
FelixIsGod29X's Avatar
Manual Rack
Tenured Member: 20 Years
iTrader: (50)
 
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,652
Likes: 1
From: Wanaque NJ
Is your injectors firing? The pump maybe working but the injectors may not be firing.
Reply
Old Apr 21, 2011 | 04:31 PM
  #3  
blackrotary23's Avatar
snap crackle brap
Tenured Member 05 Years
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 536
Likes: 0
From: indianapolis, indiana
Originally Posted by the seventh sign
just got done swapping block and trans w s5 w all my s4 externals in a 88 se. thought i was done but now it cranks and cranks. getting spark and started once squirting gas in through air box tube. could it be timing? thought it was fuel pump but its working. searched threads but couldnt find anything on fuel pumps. it only turns on when cranking car over. is this norm? also read in a couple places about tow starting.... any help would be appreciated. otherwise dont comment. just ready to get my project car done and experience it.
ok, so you have an 88 s4 (n/a or turboII?) with an s5 block. that means that you have s4 injectors...right? also, if you put the s5 block in you should have the electric oil metering pump if you havent switched out the front cover for the mechanical omp.

this should not cause the car not to run though.

did you make sure you grounded the engine harness to the engine block?
did you make sure you hooked up everything to the engine harness including the crank angle sensor, mass air flow meter, tps, pressure sensor, all 4 injector clips to the RIGHT injectors.

make sure that the fuel lines are not crossed.
make sure that you dont have ANY vacuum leaks and everything is connected correctly then post a reply with what you come up with.
Reply
Old May 4, 2011 | 11:52 AM
  #4  
the seventh sign's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Tenured Member 10 Years
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: greensburg indiana
its a n/a s5 block w s/4 front cover etc... went over everything and found that fuel lines got mixed up somehow. got the timing to where it would start but holding it to the floor and starting it it revs up to 4000 rpms then shuts off. i currently have water temp sensor unhooked due to the difference in s5/s4 sensor and wiring harness. would that have any effect?
Reply
Old May 4, 2011 | 12:11 PM
  #5  
j9fd3s's Avatar
Moderator
Community Builder
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,835
Likes: 3,232
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by the seventh sign
its a n/a s5 block w s/4 front cover etc... went over everything and found that fuel lines got mixed up somehow. got the timing to where it would start but holding it to the floor and starting it it revs up to 4000 rpms then shuts off. i currently have water temp sensor unhooked due to the difference in s5/s4 sensor and wiring harness. would that have any effect?
which one? the one under the oil filter is just for the gauge, and won't affect anything.

the one in the back of the water pump is for the ecu, and has a HUGE effect
Reply
Old May 5, 2011 | 11:42 AM
  #6  
the seventh sign's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Tenured Member 10 Years
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: greensburg indiana
just one under oil filter. if fuel lines were crossed where would fuel have been going to? what do i need to check next?
Reply
Old May 5, 2011 | 12:49 PM
  #7  
j9fd3s's Avatar
Moderator
Community Builder
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,835
Likes: 3,232
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by the seventh sign
just one under oil filter. if fuel lines were crossed where would fuel have been going to? what do i need to check next?
depends on how you crossed them. if you just switched the pressure and return, the fuel pressure will be low (i think) and the car won't get enough fuel to run.

i have heard of the line from the tank being right and the return being put into the crankcase breather(!) so the car runs, but fills the oil sump with fuel
Reply
Old May 7, 2011 | 11:24 AM
  #8  
the seventh sign's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Tenured Member 10 Years
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: greensburg indiana
so does it sound like i need to mess w my timing more or do i need to be looking somewhere else?
Reply
Old May 8, 2011 | 02:07 PM
  #9  
j9fd3s's Avatar
Moderator
Community Builder
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,835
Likes: 3,232
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by the seventh sign
so does it sound like i need to mess w my timing more or do i need to be looking somewhere else?
its worth checking, if the front pulley is the original one, you can put it on the leading mark, pop off the CAS cover, remove the little plastic plug, put the cover back, and one of the BIG CAS teeth should be centered in the CAS cover hole.

the advanced move, is to smell the tailpipe, if it DOESN'T smell like fuel, put a timing light on it, and see if you get spark, if you have no spark, and no fuel, the ecu is either not getting power, or an rpm signal.

if the tailpipe does smell like fuel, its probably flooded. i'm lazy, i unplug the circuit opening relay with one hand and crank with the other....

if that didn't make sense, the non advanced move, is to pull a spark plug, if its wet then its flooded, pull and clean all the plugs, IMO you should unplug the circuit opening relay and crank until its dry, but if that's too advanced, you can pull the BTN fuse, and crank it. (the circuit opening relay disables the fuel pump, but leaves spark, the BTN fuse depowers the ECU, so you loose fuel AND spark, which is bad when you're trying to get spark).
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
izzolaw
1st Gen General Discussion
2
Sep 27, 2015 08:33 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:22 AM.