Rexpelagi

Ok, I'm in the middle of swapping to a TII differential in my FC. I have two questions.

First, I'm replacing the mounts on the diff itself, the ones on the ears. Is there a recommended way to remove the factory mounts besides force?

Second, I managed to snap 3 of the 4 rear brake caliper bolts that attach the caliper to the bracket. I wasn't sure if anyone had this happen to them before but I was planning on drilling them out and hoping for the best. The heads on all 3 snapped off completely so I don't have any other ideas.

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

First, use a press.

Second, you are probably screwed. get out your drill or try to use ez-outs. if there is still enough to grab onto try this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uxQrgEDnCvI

Rexpelagi

That's going to be interesting trying to hold the diff in a press, but I don't have any better ideas besides pounding on the mount with a hammer.

There definitely isn't enough material left to use vice grips. They either broke off flush with the surface or with less than that. Two shouldn't be hard to drill, provided they do come out when drilled. One was on the bottom of the caliper though and that should be interesting since the subframe is blocking access via a drill.

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

i've seen those diff ear's break off...i wouldn't just start pounding on them with a hammer.

didn't you drop the subframe to get the diff out?

Rexpelagi

Yes, but the subframe and the caliper are both in the same relative locations as I couldn't get the caliper off. I had to take off the handbrake cable and the brake line instead of removing the caliper. I'm sure it will be easier off the car but the subframe still looks like it will make it physically difficult to get a drill in there.

ramello

iTrader: (1)

when i removed my mounts from my diff i just stacked up a bunch of old rims and rested the diff on that so it was abou tthe right level to use with the press
made it very easy

you should be able to drill the bolt out from the other side, you can take the caliper apart, you just remove one bolt and it slides into two pieces, its meant to do that and access the back side of the bolt from that side, i had to do that one time for a buddy of mine when we changed his brakes

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Ok..I had the Brake Bracket bolts BREAK off when I was trying to get the brake off,and what I did was get a drill and start drilling,shallow.you only want to drill into where the bolt is stuck in the bracket.If you start with a small bit and increase the bit size,you can eventually Get the Bracket off,and it will leave enough Bolt to grasp on with a pair of Vise grips...OH,the best way I Figured was to take the Spindle assembly off the Car,in order to do this..It's pretty hard to manouver with the Brakes and Whatnot on the car,So If you don't mind doing that,then you may Fair out OK.Otherwise,you could end up getting another spindle assembly,and brake Caliper assembly.(rear brakes complete are about 100 Each)..I hope that gives you something to go by..Cheers,STYX.

Rexpelagi

The press worked well for the diff mounts. Now onto the bolts-o-fun.

Rexpelagi

Well... today didn't go well.

I picked up some bolt extractor things from Home Depot. The way they claim to work is you drill a hole in the bolt with a regular bit, you tap in the extractor, and then you turn them counter-clockwise (which threads them in along with twisting the bolt). Unfortunately, I broke them off twice when I started to turn them in two different caliper bolts. They are made out of what seems to be a hardened tool steel type material so I didn't have a prayer of drilling them out with the bits I had.

Basically I made it worse than it was.

Then I tried to take the spindles off. There is one bolt on each side that has rubber boots around it. Both are seized in place. The impact wouldn't break them loose, nor would a socket with a 4 foot cheater bar on it. I'll have to buy an actual breaker bar for these guys. Under the boot is a ridiculous amount of rust.

I was quite pissed off after this excitement. I may see if I can just find a complete subframe that doesn't have seized and snapped bolts because I don't really have the time or desire to fight with stupid isht like this.

I didn't try taking the caliper apart yet, I will have to do that next time.

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

i have a spare rear subframe...the hubs arent attached though