Hello all,

Im currenty working on a device that will "hopefully" allow me to replace the Flapper styled AFM from my Mazda RX-7, who just so happends to be the same as the Toyotas, and some other Mazdas. If any one has the same problem im having where the signal from the AFM is reversed from the MAP sensor.

I will let everyone know if this works and i will have it available for sale once its ready. I will keep everyone posted.

Also, anyone here heard of the Perfect Power SMT6 piggyback unit? it allows you to modify fuel and timing almost all cars with an electronically controled fuel injection system. And it works on RX-7s too. I my self am currently ironing out the tuning on my FC, i will keep this post updated with information an results. If anybody is interested in a GROUP BUY, please email me with your details.

Also, please visit my website for more information, specially the SMT6 FAQ section.

www.tuningtechnology.com/new_site/smtfaq.html

Later,

 

The S5 (89+ RX-7) AFM doesn't have a flapper, and thus poses less of a "restriction". It can be installed with just a few wiring changes, no devices needed.

 

This is a little off topic, but how does the S5 afm work if theres no flapper door?

 

It is a cone shaped slider. Many AFMs work without a flapper. They use a hot wire method (the resistance of a wire changes with temperature...air flows over the wire. the more air, the lower the temp of the wire, the lower the resistance).

 

Yeah aaron but what is the voltage signal like, 0 to 5 or 5 to 0 volts. If the voltage is just like the 'flapper' style, then its 5 to 0, and MAP sensors are 0 to 5. Thus you cant use a map sensor instead, you need something to reverse the scale so the ECU will at least read what it expects.

Hopefully this device im working on will do the job, and together with the SMT6, you can tune the car to perfection.

Later,

 

Claudio RX-7- Send me an -email at AZ-Tech_Rotary@iluvmyrx7.com we can talk business.

Santiago

 

The cone and central supporting structure are still in the way of the airflow, so the restriction is still the same, particularly since the inlet is actually a bit smaller than the S4 one.
And it makes almost zero difference, so there's really no point.

 

Yeah I noticed the S5 AFM is like...umm...TINY
And I doubt it would flow MORE

 

Hey guys,

The purpose of that device im talking about is to be able to remove the AFM effectively and cheaply. Not having to resourse to an expensive EMS system, although it is the best way to get maximum power out of your engine.

But im still looking for ways to make it cost effective. As for any air flow meter, it will be so much more restrictive as a map sensor always.

Hey AZ-Tech_Rotary, what do you guys do?

Later,

 

Claudio if I may Call me Santiago we(AZ) are probably the newest company for RX-7 parts. Currently we have only a cold air intake but we are trying to make agreements with other people that make only a few products to add content to our site and thusly condense a larger variety of products together in one site.

If you will kindly click on the picture below you can visite or site.(It is currently being updated and a re-design of th elayout will be implemented in some time but that is still unknown)

Send us that e-mail so we can talk more loosly.

Santiago

 

So, anybody else aware of the SMT6 unit? or ways to get the AFM removed and substitued with a MAP sensor?

I have another post around here about that, where im designing a device to allow for a map sensor to be used instead of the AFM.

Later,

 

I was looking into them for use in a turbo kit we build for a 4 banger.. as the movie says.. " just walk away.. just walk away" I have 5 sitting here in a developers kit that we ordered the best use I've found for then is as coasters for a beer. they are weak in just about everycatagory as they are primarily build for the non G8 countries and aimed more at say south america and Africa ( coming from SA I would assume so), if you have a dual coil then your out of luck using the ignition setup unless you want to run a single channel wasted spark, timing setup on a rotary is almost not possible as there is no actual setting for a rotary and the 4 banger setup requires an missing tooth or odd signal setup on the CAS. ( this of course is NO guarentee that it will work regardless) we did a neon and even with the timing setup it still didn't want to fuction properly. Also if the car batt fails in ANY way the box frys out. Compare pricing to the E manage and it's a no brainer. compare product.. ( a 5 or so meg DL of a very iffy windows setup, thier primary OS is actually DOS. A small plastic bos with a 1/16" aluminum tab that is suppose to be a heat sink for when your controlling 4 or more injectors, the box weights in at about 8 oz on the heavy side and the wiring is 20-22ga ) now look at the E manage for $200 more for the FULL kit.

i've used it, it sucks, don't bother.

 

Well, are you talking about the SMT6 or the 5? I've used it plenty of times, and it works just fine. Ive installed it on my own FC intercepting the CAS signal from the 24 tooth trigger and i can advane and retard timing just fine. Ive installed it on more hondas than i can count and it works fine, and people all over the world have installed it in a lot of places. This little thing doesnt have to be used with missing tooth signals only, it can do 24 tooth (honda, toyota, mazda RX-7), it can do missing toothe (most euros), it can do crank sensor 12 tooth (supra, honda S2000, RX-7 FD), etc.

Even the additional hardware, the injector driver and activation switch are good for lots of things, the driver can be used not just for injectors, but for factory boost control solneoids (VW and Audi), VVTi (toyota), Vtec (honda), progressive NOS activation, etc.

And its UNIVERSAL, you can put it in almost any electronicaly controlled fuel injected car there is. At the very worst you wont have ignition control, but you will be able to do fuel no matter what.

Later,