Smog and power output....
#1
Technician
Thread Starter
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 369
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Smog and power output....
I have an '88 TII, and my plans for it are to get it as close to 300 RWHP without having to go to the Rtek 2.0 or standalone EMS, and to be able to pass smog easily. Ex. not having to tear the car apart every 2 years.
And I know that power and easy smog passing dont usually fit together to well
I am looking at using the Rtek 1.8 since it is designed for 4 720cc injectors or larger which is what I would think would be sufficient enough to get close to 300 RWHP from.
My main concern is when it comes smog time, will I be able to run the 720's towards the lean side using the Safc II and detune everything and run as low of boost as I safely can? Or is that just a stupid idea?
Or could I leave in the 720's and put a stock ECU in and use the Safc II to lower the fuel ouput of the 720's and detune the car still to pass smog?
I do want to do this right. But dont want to spend that much for things like a polished 3 in turbo back exhaust that costs $800 + shipping that would be kind of a waste IMO.
What I will be using will hopefully be a rebuilt 13BT engine from karack since he is so close and is one of the best, no a/c or power steering but will still have the smog stuff
A walbro 255 rewired pump
Rtek 1.8
4 Rc engineering 720cc injectors
Not sure which fuel pressure regulator to use yet, still researching that one
2.5 inch RB downpipe to a 2.5 inch custom cat, to a borla cat back
BNR either stage 1 or 2, leaning more towards the stage 1
Either a corksport FMIC or custom
Already have a Safc II
Greddy profec b spec II boost conroller
Innovate wideband a/f ratio monitor
Apex'i boost gauge
RB fuel cut defencer
The rest will be fixed up of course, like fuel lines, vacuum lines, hoses, filters, etc...those are a given when trying to get more power out of an engine.
Does that list of upgrades, and proper tuning of course, sound like it would be capable of reaching close to 300 RWHP and pass smog if I detuned it appropriately?
Any helpful suggestions, and parts suggestions are welcome and greatly appreciated. I may have missed some things, if so just add them in for me please
And I know that power and easy smog passing dont usually fit together to well
I am looking at using the Rtek 1.8 since it is designed for 4 720cc injectors or larger which is what I would think would be sufficient enough to get close to 300 RWHP from.
My main concern is when it comes smog time, will I be able to run the 720's towards the lean side using the Safc II and detune everything and run as low of boost as I safely can? Or is that just a stupid idea?
Or could I leave in the 720's and put a stock ECU in and use the Safc II to lower the fuel ouput of the 720's and detune the car still to pass smog?
I do want to do this right. But dont want to spend that much for things like a polished 3 in turbo back exhaust that costs $800 + shipping that would be kind of a waste IMO.
What I will be using will hopefully be a rebuilt 13BT engine from karack since he is so close and is one of the best, no a/c or power steering but will still have the smog stuff
A walbro 255 rewired pump
Rtek 1.8
4 Rc engineering 720cc injectors
Not sure which fuel pressure regulator to use yet, still researching that one
2.5 inch RB downpipe to a 2.5 inch custom cat, to a borla cat back
BNR either stage 1 or 2, leaning more towards the stage 1
Either a corksport FMIC or custom
Already have a Safc II
Greddy profec b spec II boost conroller
Innovate wideband a/f ratio monitor
Apex'i boost gauge
RB fuel cut defencer
The rest will be fixed up of course, like fuel lines, vacuum lines, hoses, filters, etc...those are a given when trying to get more power out of an engine.
Does that list of upgrades, and proper tuning of course, sound like it would be capable of reaching close to 300 RWHP and pass smog if I detuned it appropriately?
Any helpful suggestions, and parts suggestions are welcome and greatly appreciated. I may have missed some things, if so just add them in for me please
#2
I have an '88 TII, and my plans for it are to get it as close to 300 RWHP without having to go to the Rtek 2.0 or standalone EMS, and to be able to pass smog easily. Ex. not having to tear the car apart every 2 years.
And I know that power and easy smog passing dont usually fit together to well
And I know that power and easy smog passing dont usually fit together to well
I am looking at using the Rtek 1.8 since it is designed for 4 720cc injectors or larger which is what I would think would be sufficient enough to get close to 300 RWHP from.
My main concern is when it comes smog time, will I be able to run the 720's towards the lean side using the Safc II and detune everything and run as low of boost as I safely can? Or is that just a stupid idea?
Or could I leave in the 720's and put a stock ECU in and use the Safc II to lower the fuel ouput of the 720's and detune the car still to pass smog?
My main concern is when it comes smog time, will I be able to run the 720's towards the lean side using the Safc II and detune everything and run as low of boost as I safely can? Or is that just a stupid idea?
Or could I leave in the 720's and put a stock ECU in and use the Safc II to lower the fuel ouput of the 720's and detune the car still to pass smog?
I do want to do this right. But dont want to spend that much for things like a polished 3 in turbo back exhaust that costs $800 + shipping that would be kind of a waste IMO.
What I will be using will hopefully be a rebuilt 13BT engine from karack since he is so close and is one of the best, no a/c or power steering but will still have the smog stuff. This will help for sure.
A walbro 255 rewired pump. Dunno if it really affects emissions.
Rtek 1.8. I don't know a thing about Rteks.
4 Rc engineering 720cc injectors. can be controlled to lean out the car.
Not sure which fuel pressure regulator to use yet, still researching that one. I'm under the impression it's not needed for the 300hp range.
2.5 inch RB downpipe to a 2.5 inch custom cat, to a borla cat back. Will not pass visual
BNR either stage 1 or 2, leaning more towards the stage 1. GREAT! LOOKS STOCK!
Either a corksport FMIC or custom. will not pass visual
A walbro 255 rewired pump. Dunno if it really affects emissions.
Rtek 1.8. I don't know a thing about Rteks.
4 Rc engineering 720cc injectors. can be controlled to lean out the car.
Not sure which fuel pressure regulator to use yet, still researching that one. I'm under the impression it's not needed for the 300hp range.
2.5 inch RB downpipe to a 2.5 inch custom cat, to a borla cat back. Will not pass visual
BNR either stage 1 or 2, leaning more towards the stage 1. GREAT! LOOKS STOCK!
Either a corksport FMIC or custom. will not pass visual
Already have a Safc II
Greddy profec b spec II boost conroller
Innovate wideband a/f ratio monitor
Apex'i boost gauge
RB fuel cut defencer
The rest will be fixed up of course, like fuel lines, vacuum lines, hoses, filters, etc...those are a given when trying to get more power out of an engine.
Greddy profec b spec II boost conroller
Innovate wideband a/f ratio monitor
Apex'i boost gauge
RB fuel cut defencer
The rest will be fixed up of course, like fuel lines, vacuum lines, hoses, filters, etc...those are a given when trying to get more power out of an engine.
Does that list of upgrades, and proper tuning of course, sound like it would be capable of reaching close to 300 RWHP and pass smog if I detuned it appropriately?
Any helpful suggestions, and parts suggestions are welcome and greatly appreciated. I may have missed some things, if so just add them in for me please
Any helpful suggestions, and parts suggestions are welcome and greatly appreciated. I may have missed some things, if so just add them in for me please
I don't know how helpful it is but that's what i came up with.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rgordon1979
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
40
03-15-22 12:04 PM