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Smog and power output....

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Old 07-30-07, 02:07 AM
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Smog and power output....

I have an '88 TII, and my plans for it are to get it as close to 300 RWHP without having to go to the Rtek 2.0 or standalone EMS, and to be able to pass smog easily. Ex. not having to tear the car apart every 2 years.
And I know that power and easy smog passing dont usually fit together to well


I am looking at using the Rtek 1.8 since it is designed for 4 720cc injectors or larger which is what I would think would be sufficient enough to get close to 300 RWHP from.

My main concern is when it comes smog time, will I be able to run the 720's towards the lean side using the Safc II and detune everything and run as low of boost as I safely can? Or is that just a stupid idea?
Or could I leave in the 720's and put a stock ECU in and use the Safc II to lower the fuel ouput of the 720's and detune the car still to pass smog?

I do want to do this right. But dont want to spend that much for things like a polished 3 in turbo back exhaust that costs $800 + shipping that would be kind of a waste IMO.

What I will be using will hopefully be a rebuilt 13BT engine from karack since he is so close and is one of the best, no a/c or power steering but will still have the smog stuff
A walbro 255 rewired pump
Rtek 1.8
4 Rc engineering 720cc injectors
Not sure which fuel pressure regulator to use yet, still researching that one
2.5 inch RB downpipe to a 2.5 inch custom cat, to a borla cat back
BNR either stage 1 or 2, leaning more towards the stage 1
Either a corksport FMIC or custom

Already have a Safc II
Greddy profec b spec II boost conroller
Innovate wideband a/f ratio monitor
Apex'i boost gauge
RB fuel cut defencer

The rest will be fixed up of course, like fuel lines, vacuum lines, hoses, filters, etc...those are a given when trying to get more power out of an engine.

Does that list of upgrades, and proper tuning of course, sound like it would be capable of reaching close to 300 RWHP and pass smog if I detuned it appropriately?

Any helpful suggestions, and parts suggestions are welcome and greatly appreciated. I may have missed some things, if so just add them in for me please
Old 07-30-07, 03:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Apex944
I have an '88 TII, and my plans for it are to get it as close to 300 RWHP without having to go to the Rtek 2.0 or standalone EMS, and to be able to pass smog easily. Ex. not having to tear the car apart every 2 years.
And I know that power and easy smog passing dont usually fit together to well
i don't think it will be easy


I am looking at using the Rtek 1.8 since it is designed for 4 720cc injectors or larger which is what I would think would be sufficient enough to get close to 300 RWHP from.

My main concern is when it comes smog time, will I be able to run the 720's towards the lean side using the Safc II and detune everything and run as low of boost as I safely can? Or is that just a stupid idea?
Or could I leave in the 720's and put a stock ECU in and use the Safc II to lower the fuel ouput of the 720's and detune the car still to pass smog?
I'd lean out the car, and limp to the smog place but make sure your airpump is still working and injecting into the exhaust.


I do want to do this right. But dont want to spend that much for things like a polished 3 in turbo back exhaust that costs $800 + shipping that would be kind of a waste IMO.
what to tell you. Keep the stock exhaust for smog and use the motoria/corksport for the rest of the time?

What I will be using will hopefully be a rebuilt 13BT engine from karack since he is so close and is one of the best, no a/c or power steering but will still have the smog stuff. This will help for sure.
A walbro 255 rewired pump. Dunno if it really affects emissions.
Rtek 1.8. I don't know a thing about Rteks.
4 Rc engineering 720cc injectors. can be controlled to lean out the car.
Not sure which fuel pressure regulator to use yet, still researching that one. I'm under the impression it's not needed for the 300hp range.
2.5 inch RB downpipe to a 2.5 inch custom cat, to a borla cat back. Will not pass visual
BNR either stage 1 or 2, leaning more towards the stage 1. GREAT! LOOKS STOCK!
Either a corksport FMIC or custom. will not pass visual
SEE the red^^^^


Already have a Safc II
Greddy profec b spec II boost conroller
Innovate wideband a/f ratio monitor
Apex'i boost gauge
RB fuel cut defencer

The rest will be fixed up of course, like fuel lines, vacuum lines, hoses, filters, etc...those are a given when trying to get more power out of an engine.
an aftermarket filter will not pass visual, neither will any thing that looks like it modifies fuel or emissions.

Does that list of upgrades, and proper tuning of course, sound like it would be capable of reaching close to 300 RWHP and pass smog if I detuned it appropriately?

Any helpful suggestions, and parts suggestions are welcome and greatly appreciated. I may have missed some things, if so just add them in for me please
you will need the stock DP to pass visual, make sure your electronics are well hidden along with your boost controller and other parts that might make the smog guy nervous (they don't know if you're an undercover govt. agen so they wll say "NO" if they see anything fishy." I think it might be doable if you lean out the car and if it doesn't pass then you can try the alcohol trick (search for it).


I don't know how helpful it is but that's what i came up with.
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