six speed?
six speed?
11-20-02, 10:05 PM
#4
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isnt the HKS dogmission a 6spd? its got a nice pricetag on it...soulassassin had one, the factory 5spd is actually laid out pretty good and works rather well, no need really for another gear
11-20-02, 10:15 PM
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How can you say the facory 5 speed is layed out well????
N/A's would be seeing the high side of 160mph if it weren't for the 31% spread between 4th and 5th...
Give me a six speed with two over drive gears and I'll be a happy camper. Say a 5th gear of .85:1 and the .61:1 in sixth. Now that would be a well laid out tranny.
N/A's would be seeing the high side of 160mph if it weren't for the 31% spread between 4th and 5th...
Give me a six speed with two over drive gears and I'll be a happy camper. Say a 5th gear of .85:1 and the .61:1 in sixth. Now that would be a well laid out tranny.
11-20-02, 10:58 PM
#7
...94% correct.
Thread Starter
Originally posted by presetlimits
isnt the HKS dogmission a 6spd? its got a nice pricetag on it...soulassassin had one, the factory 5spd is actually laid out pretty good and works rather well, no need really for another gear
isnt the HKS dogmission a 6spd? its got a nice pricetag on it...soulassassin had one, the factory 5spd is actually laid out pretty good and works rather well, no need really for another gear
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11-20-02, 11:39 PM
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Originally posted by Makenzie71
I love manuel trannies....I was wondering if anyone's ever heard of one being put on a S5...maybe off of a Supra TT?
I love manuel trannies....I was wondering if anyone's ever heard of one being put on a S5...maybe off of a Supra TT?
Originally posted by Makenzie71
where do I find info about the HKS dogmission???
where do I find info about the HKS dogmission???
http://www.hksusa.com/info/?id=1143
11-21-02, 12:04 AM
#11
...94% correct.
Thread Starter
hmmm..$7000....let's see....take to one and carry the 2 subtract the square root of pi time 456 added with the measure of angle y minus 2....that's only 14 times what I paid for the car....ouch
I have access to a machine shop and a friend at a junk yard who just wants to see if I can do it.
Making the adapter plate would be easy...I've done similar things b4...that won't be a problem...
I was just gonna make a sleeve to fit over the E-shaft that would be the propper diameter for the TT flywheel. I think that making the keys might be difficult....Or...I have a device that can center perfectly a flywheel and clutch assembly....maybe I could drill and thread holes in the stock rx fly and mount the clutch assembly from the TT onto it....then it would be fairly simple I would assume...lots of ssumption...feedback please...
I have access to a machine shop and a friend at a junk yard who just wants to see if I can do it.
Making the adapter plate would be easy...I've done similar things b4...that won't be a problem...
I was just gonna make a sleeve to fit over the E-shaft that would be the propper diameter for the TT flywheel. I think that making the keys might be difficult....Or...I have a device that can center perfectly a flywheel and clutch assembly....maybe I could drill and thread holes in the stock rx fly and mount the clutch assembly from the TT onto it....then it would be fairly simple I would assume...lots of ssumption...feedback please...
11-21-02, 12:20 AM
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I think I'm tracking on what you just proposed. Keep in mind that you're talking about adding extra weight from doing that and will hurt the performance of the engine in doing so.
The only way it would be beneficial to try and fab another flywheel onto the stock one would be if you got the automatic hub with proper counter weight and made a "new" flywheel which would mate the two properly. Thats how I would approach it. Then you can balance the new flywheel staticly and not worry about things vibrating to destruction from attempting this project.
The only way it would be beneficial to try and fab another flywheel onto the stock one would be if you got the automatic hub with proper counter weight and made a "new" flywheel which would mate the two properly. Thats how I would approach it. Then you can balance the new flywheel staticly and not worry about things vibrating to destruction from attempting this project.
11-21-02, 12:26 AM
#13
...94% correct.
Thread Starter
I had a concern about this but.....my question....
The flywheel should be balenced rotationally, right? Because there are no weights or balencing devices on the fly itself, and the clutch assembly should be balenced in itself as well...so if the two mount to one another perfectly centered (like the stock fly and clutch) then weight and balencing really shouldn't be a problem would it?
The flywheel should be balenced rotationally, right? Because there are no weights or balencing devices on the fly itself, and the clutch assembly should be balenced in itself as well...so if the two mount to one another perfectly centered (like the stock fly and clutch) then weight and balencing really shouldn't be a problem would it?
11-21-02, 12:28 AM
#14
...94% correct.
Thread Starter
Is this extra weight your talking about the mass that's added to the rotating assembly or the overall weight added to the car....because over all there really should only be the 23lbs + the weight of the adapter plate...
23lbs=dif in stock and tt manuel trannies
23lbs=dif in stock and tt manuel trannies
11-21-02, 12:31 AM
#15
...94% correct.
Thread Starter
and thanx for the feedback jimmy...any more feedback or ideas would be great...are there other six speeds that you think might be a better idea?
11-21-02, 02:16 AM
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I was actually refering to the additional weight added to the rotating assembly if you were to mate two flywheels together.
The stock flywheel is counter weighted to balance the rotating assembly of the rotors and E-shaft. Which is precisely why I mentioned aquiring a hub from an auto. The flexplate is not counter weighted on the auto's so the hub it bolts to is weighted and balanced, then used for aftermarket flywheels, thus eliminating the need to counter weight the actual flywheel.
Using the auto hub would provide you with a 6 bolt flange to which you could fabricate an adapting flywheel to mate the new tranny with. You could make the base of the flywheel thicker to compensate for any thickness added in adapting the belhousing at that point too. It's definately the way to go in this situation considering the miniscule weight differences in counter weights are between the series and how detrimental the imbalance would be to the lifespan of the motor.
The stock flywheel is counter weighted to balance the rotating assembly of the rotors and E-shaft. Which is precisely why I mentioned aquiring a hub from an auto. The flexplate is not counter weighted on the auto's so the hub it bolts to is weighted and balanced, then used for aftermarket flywheels, thus eliminating the need to counter weight the actual flywheel.
Using the auto hub would provide you with a 6 bolt flange to which you could fabricate an adapting flywheel to mate the new tranny with. You could make the base of the flywheel thicker to compensate for any thickness added in adapting the belhousing at that point too. It's definately the way to go in this situation considering the miniscule weight differences in counter weights are between the series and how detrimental the imbalance would be to the lifespan of the motor.
11-21-02, 05:25 AM
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Originally posted by Node
The turbo transmissions are strong (around 450hp or so before they start to have problemsi believe)
The turbo transmissions are strong (around 450hp or so before they start to have problemsi believe)
11-21-02, 07:16 AM
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The turbo's driveline uses a larger bolt pattern on the mounting flange at the diff. I think the auto driveshafts will compensate with the proper yoke splines and smaller bolt pattern on the other end.
Custom driveshafts are also pretty cheap. <$200
Custom driveshafts are also pretty cheap. <$200
11-21-02, 07:35 AM
#22
If you're going to use a Turbo tranny you need to swap the tranny, clutch/flywheel, driveshaft, differential and halfshafts.
But thats if you want to use all stock parts.
If you want to swap from auto to manual and you're using an N/A Manual tranny, you have to swap the driveshaft too, because the auto is longer (I think thats how it is) and the driveshaft is shorter for the auto. But the N/A differential is the same for both auto and manuals. Autos only came with open diff's though and had 3.9 Final Gears.
But thats if you want to use all stock parts.
If you want to swap from auto to manual and you're using an N/A Manual tranny, you have to swap the driveshaft too, because the auto is longer (I think thats how it is) and the driveshaft is shorter for the auto. But the N/A differential is the same for both auto and manuals. Autos only came with open diff's though and had 3.9 Final Gears.
11-21-02, 07:38 AM
#23
The GTUs had a different 5th gear (the rest of the tranny was regular N/A with a diff 5th gear) to make the Overdrive gear more useful for highways with its 4.3 Final. GTUs trannies are kind of hard to come by though.
I know mazdaspeed7 has first gen gears in his car. Or he talked about it at least.
I think he said they were much closer ratio than the FC gears.
I know mazdaspeed7 has first gen gears in his car. Or he talked about it at least.
I think he said they were much closer ratio than the FC gears.
11-21-02, 07:57 AM
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Originally posted by Jimmy325i
How can you say the facory 5 speed is layed out well????
N/A's would be seeing the high side of 160mph if it weren't for the 31% spread between 4th and 5th...
Give me a six speed with two over drive gears and I'll be a happy camper. Say a 5th gear of .85:1 and the .61:1 in sixth. Now that would be a well laid out tranny.
How can you say the facory 5 speed is layed out well????
N/A's would be seeing the high side of 160mph if it weren't for the 31% spread between 4th and 5th...
Give me a six speed with two over drive gears and I'll be a happy camper. Say a 5th gear of .85:1 and the .61:1 in sixth. Now that would be a well laid out tranny.