2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Silly question - is this a bad wear in the ...

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Old Dec 4, 2002 | 02:52 PM
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brap brap
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Silly question - is this a bad wear in the ...

I guess you can call it "shaft" of where the shifter goes?

Why I ask is because I'm wondering if this is part of the cause why most of my shift ***** will not stay on .. when the car gets warm enough.. and you can feel it through the shifter shaft, and inbetween the center console. The first shift **** I had on (not stock) It came off within a few months - had gotten a used stock shift **** from Brian Smith and them, and a few weeks later, it got loose, and came off again. This past summer, I had gotten my knew shift **** (one i've wanted for a while) .. and it just sudden slid off.

The new shift **** (Race Air Leather) isn't threaded on the inside, but has screws to which tighten down on the shaft / boot (I believe).

I've included pictures - is this my main cause of why this is happening?


Last edited by christi; Dec 4, 2002 at 02:57 PM.
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Old Dec 4, 2002 | 02:54 PM
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brap brap
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#2


Last edited by christi; Dec 4, 2002 at 02:58 PM.
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Old Dec 4, 2002 | 02:54 PM
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brap brap
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#3.

Sorry for the not so good pics, but it was the best I could do.
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Old Dec 4, 2002 | 02:56 PM
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brap brap
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it'd help if I added the pic with it....


Last edited by christi; Dec 4, 2002 at 02:58 PM.
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Old Dec 4, 2002 | 03:00 PM
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Try getting a threaded shift ****. If the one you're using has the allen(sp) screws at the bottom the it won't stay secure for long. I had a similar problem and went through 2 shift ***** until I finally bought the Mazdaspeed leather shift ****. This **** is universal and will fit securely on your shifter. They come in different styles so check around with some of the shops and see what they have in stock. They usually run about $55.
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Old Dec 4, 2002 | 03:02 PM
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Oops didn't see the pics before I wrote that. You may want to try and re-thread your shifter. If that doesn't work you may just want to get a new shifter.
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Old Dec 4, 2002 | 03:04 PM
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Is what the cause of your **** coming off? The heat? It looks like the aftermarket **** tore the shaft up. If your asking why the **** is coming off, im guessing its because the set screws came loose.

Last edited by TonyTurboII; Dec 4, 2002 at 03:08 PM.
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Old Dec 4, 2002 | 03:20 PM
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No, I know briefly why it's coming off on the new shifter, because the screws weren't set right in the first place...but my question is..

because of the shaft being threaded, is that the main reason it's coming off so easily when not suppose to?

blk90TII - re-thread the shifter? If you're meaning the "****".... it's the one's with the screw. Maybe i'm just really confused.
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Old Dec 4, 2002 | 03:38 PM
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If its really the **** you want...just put some lock-tite on the thread of the fastening allen screw of the ****. That will secure it from vibrating free. Be carefull with the locktite, use it sparingly.
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Old Dec 4, 2002 | 03:57 PM
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i've only had one aftermarket but it did like you are saying. your threads aren't that bad from the pics. hell it should only take so many thread to hold it on anyway. i'd say try finding a threaded **** that will match and fit properly instead of halfass slap on.
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Old Dec 4, 2002 | 07:33 PM
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Originally posted by jeremy
i've only had one aftermarket but it did like you are saying. your threads aren't that bad from the pics. hell it should only take so many thread to hold it on anyway. i'd say try finding a threaded **** that will match and fit properly instead of halfass slap on.
She has an S4... The S4 shifter thread pattern differ from the S5, and is a really screwy size. It is hard to find an aftermarket shifter with a thread to fit it.

You may want to try re-threading your shifter if you can find an appropriately sized die. IYour threads don;t look terrible, but they could be cleaned up.

(A tap is like a bolt with semi-circles cut out of it. It is used for cutting the threads onto rods to make threads. It's counterpart is a tap, which is used to make threads in drilled holes. Make sure to be liberal with cutting oil, and clean it up with some denatutred alcohol when finished).

When you put on your shift ****, use some blue loctite, and use it sparingly. I don' recommend red, since it will make it very hard to get it off again ever without heat from a torch.


Hopefully this will be of some help to you Christi... but I'm sure you know more about shift ***** and thread patterns than I do. Btw... a little off topic... but do you know of any non-t-handle or ball-type shifters with a button. As cool as T-handles feel, I don't think the look really suits an FC. I am looking for a pistol grip with a button. Any clues?

Sean Cathcart
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Old Dec 4, 2002 | 07:44 PM
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I find all kinds of shifters that are cool and cheap, but theyre those damn cheap *** sucky 3 allen head setscrew types that will NOT stay attatched to ANY type of shifter stick. My solution?

Take teh bottom screw-on cover off the ****, and drop it down on the shifter stick alone. Put the **** on the stick and position it where you want it to stay. Take a drill and drill through the WHOLE thing, **** AND stick, holding it all still. Use a rollpin, available at any hardware store in many sizes, to hold it in place. Now it will NEVER move or vibrate again. THis costs less than 5 bucks to do, and can be done in 20 minutes if youre good. I usually select a rollpin and bit about the same size as the holes for the (now removed) allen heads, and use one of those facing me as the starter hole.
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Old Dec 4, 2002 | 10:49 PM
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Originally posted by hypntyz7
I find all kinds of shifters that are cool and cheap, but theyre those damn cheap *** sucky 3 allen head setscrew types that will NOT stay attatched to ANY type of shifter stick. My solution?

Take teh bottom screw-on cover off the ****, and drop it down on the shifter stick alone. Put the **** on the stick and position it where you want it to stay. Take a drill and drill through the WHOLE thing, **** AND stick, holding it all still. Use a rollpin, available at any hardware store in many sizes, to hold it in place. Now it will NEVER move or vibrate again. THis costs less than 5 bucks to do, and can be done in 20 minutes if youre good. I usually select a rollpin and bit about the same size as the holes for the (now removed) allen heads, and use one of those facing me as the starter hole.
wow, you are a genius dude. seriously, i would never have thought of that. you always have creative solutions to stuff that always sound like a perfect fix to the problem.
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