2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.
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Old 06-08-07, 06:28 PM
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this is the day my car came out of the shop.
midnight blue =) don't know the paint code though.
we tried (at least i think) to match the old blue



at rotory fest

Old 06-08-07, 07:02 PM
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Old 06-08-07, 08:56 PM
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BROWN!!!




Old 06-08-07, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by wiL87
this is the day my car came out of the shop.
midnight blue =) don't know the paint code though.
we tried (at least i think) to match the old blue


at rotory fest

How much did the paint job cost?
Old 06-08-07, 09:45 PM
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rotors excite me

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that's a nice blue
Old 06-08-07, 10:30 PM
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[QUOTE=NOPR;7024938]BROWN!!!


QUOTE]


i used to hate brown but now not seeing to many people with it.... makes it look kinda sexyer
Old 06-08-07, 11:38 PM
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rotors excite me

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I'm reluctant to get down with brown, but I've always been a huge fan of bright basic colors and black.
Old 06-09-07, 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by NoDrySkin
How much did the paint job cost?
total was $2800

but this is how it it was before. i gave them a used s5 bumper and hood

Last edited by wiL87; 06-09-07 at 12:16 AM.
Old 06-09-07, 12:49 AM
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people either love it or hate it....

just done in may.


Old 06-09-07, 01:06 AM
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^^ yeah, you're right, I dislike it, though personally I think it'd look great with black in place of the white, of course, then it wouldn't stand out as much...

I want an all black '7 *shrug*
Old 06-09-07, 01:45 AM
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Stock 89-91 harbor blue with extra metallic base added, really makes it pop when the sun is out but it looks normal the rest of the time. The last pic shows this.







Old 06-09-07, 01:52 AM
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that TII is lookin good, kev.
Old 06-09-07, 01:54 AM
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slammed your actual car does look really sick.
Old 06-09-07, 04:09 AM
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I painted this car 5 days ago... It cost me about $450 in supplies and several labor-intensive days of sanding, body-work and then the actual painting.

All in all, it turned out pretty good for my first legitimate paint-job. These pics were before it was "cut and buffed", so the paint looks even better now. It was a single-stage, high-solids paint. I read up on an auto-body forum for about 6 hours before doing the process--it's frikkin' HARD the first time.

Stock s5 paint-code, Crystal White (UC)











Old 06-09-07, 08:59 AM
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350z blue



Pearl White

Old 06-09-07, 10:55 AM
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Old 06-09-07, 12:29 PM
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all depends on the paint like House of Kolour for a basic paint cost around 400 to 1000 a colour. There's no such thing as a cheap deal on a paint job, the cheaper the crappier usually. A very good single colour paint jobs cost around 2500 to 5000 dollars. Also quick isn't good. The more time the prep and painter guys has it the better the paint job is gonna be. The long the paint has to dry between coats the more even the paint job will be and less flaws. Gives it time to level it's self out. Only paints I would use is House of Kolour or PPG. There's a couple of other good paint brands out there but those the two I would suggest. I used to paint cars. I would charge usually like 1500 plus paints. I would charge a little bit less due to not having overhead for a shop.

This is in response to whom every asked how much for a good paint job... well i hope my rambling helped give you an idea on what a good paint job cost.
Old 06-09-07, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by SpeedOfLife
I want an all black '7 *shrug*
Here's mine.



Not sure of the paint code, although the previous owner said it was an aftermarket paint job when I bought it.
Old 06-09-07, 12:56 PM
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[/QUOTE]

Im embarrassed for the both of us.
how could you?
im still on original paint, but will be painting it as soon as i get her out from the shop.
Shes getting a new kit as well as a brigeport!
Click Link --> http://www.angelfire.com/amiga2/aurora0/10ae.htm
Old 06-09-07, 01:16 PM
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I want to paint mine either White with a little bit of blue purl or nice Mazdaspeed Orange with some metallic in it. I might save the orange for the 88 roster rx-7 project. I'm rolling the stock red and its still shinny after cuttin 20 years of oxidation and coat of prime dust. haha should of seen it when i bought it the windows were almost gray and the car looked like red primer, now its shinny thanks to M3 cutting compound and 2 weeks of work.
Old 06-09-07, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by R-Kive




Im embarrassed for the both of us.
how could you?
im still on original paint, but will be painting it as soon as i get her out from the shop.
Shes getting a new kit as well as a brigeport!
Click Link --> http://www.angelfire.com/amiga2/aurora0/10ae.htm[/QUOTE]

This is why you don't let Mexicans touch rx-7's. Okay my bad I just see this allot of this kind of stuff with cars in Burien, Washington and well its 1/2 Mexican population.

Last edited by LiL Red FC3S; 06-09-07 at 01:35 PM.
Old 06-09-07, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by eriksseven
I painted this car 5 days ago... It cost me about $450 in supplies and several labor-intensive days of sanding, body-work and then the actual painting.

All in all, it turned out pretty good for my first legitimate paint-job. These pics were before it was "cut and buffed", so the paint looks even better now. It was a single-stage, high-solids paint. I read up on an auto-body forum for about 6 hours before doing the process--it's frikkin' HARD the first time.

Stock s5 paint-code, Crystal White (UC)


Looks amazing. WHat was the process if you don't mind me asking? I am planing on doing the prep work myself and letting a shop do the painting.
Old 06-09-07, 02:34 PM
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painted!? whats that? how about not painted LOL



Old 06-09-07, 03:15 PM
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Bahah Yeah agree with you for now ryan

Not to bad for 2 weeks worth of evenings to cut and buff the original paint job. She shinned back up...
Old 06-09-07, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by NoDrySkin
Looks amazing. WHat was the process if you don't mind me asking? I am planing on doing the prep work myself and letting a shop do the painting.
Process was fairly straight-forward.

Sand the entire car with 320 paper. If you want to fill any "dings" using body-filler like Bondo, sand that specific area using 40-80grit paper down to bare-metal. Finish around it with 150, 200 and 320 to take out the scratches. After the entire car is sanded, you can wash it, but be sure to dry it fully before applying the body-filler and so that the bare-metal isn't exposed to water for any long period of time.

Clean the car with wax and grease remover and then apply body-filler. Sand the filler with 80/180/320 paper after it's dried properly and make sure to "feather" it nicely into the surrounding areas, so that there are no "Bondo edges", where the filler isn't blended. After letting the filler dry, clean the car as best you can WITHOUT ANY WATER. Getting Bondo wet will ruin it, because it acts like a sponge. Use towels, compressed air and then finish cleaning the surface with TACK cloths, which are sticky rags used specifically for cleaning surfaces for paint-prep.

Use a nice "high-fill" primer to seal in the bondo'd areas etc. Once everything is sealed, wetsand the entire surface using around a 400grit paper--you can finish with maybe a 600grit, but no one usually goes any higher than that, because then the paint won't adhere very well to the surface.

Clean using soap and water and then the car is basically prepped for paint. Directly before painting, you'll want to clean the surface again using wax and grease remover and a quick wipe with a tack-cloth.


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