Should I or Shoulden't I
08-03-08, 04:46 PM
#1
Should I or Shoulden't I
OK here is the situation, Should I buy it, or not? Here is the info I have now:
Bad:
1986 Rx-7
Minor rust around the fenders; includes new ones with sale.
It over heated and warped the gasket.
5 hours away
119,000mi
Good:
All rotors and pads brand new, not even 500 miles
New oil pump
Limited edition
Ok, he is asking 500, that’s kind of pushing my budget now. Is it worth getting it and working on it over the winter? Any advice would be splendid along with some tips/ or past experience! I’m newer to this, but I hope with your help, you guys will point me in the right direction.
Bad:
1986 Rx-7
Minor rust around the fenders; includes new ones with sale.
It over heated and warped the gasket.
5 hours away
119,000mi
Good:
All rotors and pads brand new, not even 500 miles
New oil pump
Limited edition
Ok, he is asking 500, that’s kind of pushing my budget now. Is it worth getting it and working on it over the winter? Any advice would be splendid along with some tips/ or past experience! I’m newer to this, but I hope with your help, you guys will point me in the right direction.
08-03-08, 05:38 PM
#3
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that list of repairs sounds like BS
who replaces an oil pump in a car but also manages to over heat that car
how did you find this and who's selling it?
who replaces an oil pump in a car but also manages to over heat that car
how did you find this and who's selling it?
08-03-08, 07:06 PM
#7
Save up and get one that has less issues.
"STARTS AND RUNS UNTIL THE ANTIFREEZE STARTS TO GO INTO THE OVERFLOW BOTTLE"
Does that sound like a blown coolant seal to anyone else? If so, I'd pass unless you want to rebuild the motor.
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08-03-08, 07:10 PM
#8
Definitely.
To the OP: What that translates to is a mandatory rebuild. You will at, at the least, have to replace all the soft seals. If you get in there and find something else wrong, you could easily have to spend about a grand. So.... no... probably not in your budget atm.
And TRUST ME! You don't want to not fix a potential problem when you have the motor apart. A few hundred bucks and a new motor later, I regret it.
To the OP: What that translates to is a mandatory rebuild. You will at, at the least, have to replace all the soft seals. If you get in there and find something else wrong, you could easily have to spend about a grand. So.... no... probably not in your budget atm.
And TRUST ME! You don't want to not fix a potential problem when you have the motor apart. A few hundred bucks and a new motor later, I regret it.
08-03-08, 08:49 PM
#12
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That's worth about $250 or so, depending on the components.
There was no Limited Edition US model in 1986, so it probably just has aftermarket Limited Edition stickers. You may want to clarify that with the seller, as it may be a Sport model, which may be worth the $500 if the original spoiler and aero pieces are intact.
Overheated rotary engine = toast. Plan on a minimum of $2,000 for a rebuild, probably more like $3,000-3,500 due to the normally reusable parts that are most likely ruined.
If everything else is stock, you will probably also need to replace the entire exhaust system, front wheel bearings, shocks/struts, springs, suspension bushings, driveshaft, clutch & pressure plate, alternator, brake lines, and all of the coolant hoses. The brake calipers will probably also require a rebuild if they were not rebuilt when the rotors and pads were replaced. Sorry, these cars are 20 years old, and not everything works like it once did, despite the excellent engineering.
You may be able to get that car for a couple hundred bucks if it doesn't sell soon.
Just about any FC RX-7 is going to have problems. It just depends on what you want. For comparison, a new RX-7 sold for about $12,000 back in 1986, which is about $23,000 in 2008 inflation-corrected dollars. Therefore, if you can fully restore a $500 RX-7 for less than $22,500, you have done well.
There was no Limited Edition US model in 1986, so it probably just has aftermarket Limited Edition stickers. You may want to clarify that with the seller, as it may be a Sport model, which may be worth the $500 if the original spoiler and aero pieces are intact.
Overheated rotary engine = toast. Plan on a minimum of $2,000 for a rebuild, probably more like $3,000-3,500 due to the normally reusable parts that are most likely ruined.
If everything else is stock, you will probably also need to replace the entire exhaust system, front wheel bearings, shocks/struts, springs, suspension bushings, driveshaft, clutch & pressure plate, alternator, brake lines, and all of the coolant hoses. The brake calipers will probably also require a rebuild if they were not rebuilt when the rotors and pads were replaced. Sorry, these cars are 20 years old, and not everything works like it once did, despite the excellent engineering.
You may be able to get that car for a couple hundred bucks if it doesn't sell soon.
Just about any FC RX-7 is going to have problems. It just depends on what you want. For comparison, a new RX-7 sold for about $12,000 back in 1986, which is about $23,000 in 2008 inflation-corrected dollars. Therefore, if you can fully restore a $500 RX-7 for less than $22,500, you have done well.
08-04-08, 11:06 AM
#14
You haven't mentioned your mechanical aptitude or your workspace capabilities, so it's hard to say.
In my experience...
-If you buy a "project car", even with fairly good knowledge of that car's particular quirks, take your best time/money estimate and double it to arrive at a reasonable completion figure.
-If the car is a runner, I'd much prefer one that needed mechanical work instead of bodywork.
"Minor" rust has a way of being much worse than it appears and unless it's confined to an easily replaceable panel (front fender, etc.) can lead to extensive structural work.
Be careful of cars that are not complete- for instance, the interior is in boxes.
First, it's hard to see what you might be missing and since you aren't disassembling it, it's much harder to see how it goes together. Also, those "few missing pieces" are probably the ones that are impossible to find (that's why the seller doesn't have them).
Finally, IMO the absolute worst problems are going to be electrical.
Beware the seller installed stereo or alarm that "just needs a few wires hooked up" to work. Prior to my 91 NA, all my cars were early seventies or older sports cars which had electrical systems even a layman could understand.
The second gen RX's were the beginning of the era where the Japanese decided "Hey!, these computer things are really cool...let's use 'em for EVERYTHING!", so even something as simple as the turn signals became solid state.
The potential for screwing things up increased exponentially.
And finally...
I'm not familiar with your state's emissions requirements but I'd make the seller prove it'll pass (this is actually a law here in Denver).
RX7 were marginal even when new and after 15 or so years, getting one to pass can be expensive and time consuming.
Good luck.
In my experience...
-If you buy a "project car", even with fairly good knowledge of that car's particular quirks, take your best time/money estimate and double it to arrive at a reasonable completion figure.
-If the car is a runner, I'd much prefer one that needed mechanical work instead of bodywork.
"Minor" rust has a way of being much worse than it appears and unless it's confined to an easily replaceable panel (front fender, etc.) can lead to extensive structural work.
Be careful of cars that are not complete- for instance, the interior is in boxes.
First, it's hard to see what you might be missing and since you aren't disassembling it, it's much harder to see how it goes together. Also, those "few missing pieces" are probably the ones that are impossible to find (that's why the seller doesn't have them).
Finally, IMO the absolute worst problems are going to be electrical.
Beware the seller installed stereo or alarm that "just needs a few wires hooked up" to work. Prior to my 91 NA, all my cars were early seventies or older sports cars which had electrical systems even a layman could understand.
The second gen RX's were the beginning of the era where the Japanese decided "Hey!, these computer things are really cool...let's use 'em for EVERYTHING!", so even something as simple as the turn signals became solid state.
The potential for screwing things up increased exponentially.
And finally...
I'm not familiar with your state's emissions requirements but I'd make the seller prove it'll pass (this is actually a law here in Denver).
RX7 were marginal even when new and after 15 or so years, getting one to pass can be expensive and time consuming.
Good luck.
08-04-08, 07:26 PM
#15
You haven't mentioned your mechanical aptitude or your workspace capabilities, so it's hard to say.
In my experience...
-If you buy a "project car", even with fairly good knowledge of that car's particular quirks, take your best time/money estimate and double it to arrive at a reasonable completion figure.
In my experience...
-If you buy a "project car", even with fairly good knowledge of that car's particular quirks, take your best time/money estimate and double it to arrive at a reasonable completion figure.
08-05-08, 11:18 AM
#17
Not rip everything out just for learning. I have been looking for a Rx-7 that has a strong pulling engien but need some TLC, exterrior work i would love to keep to a minnium but that wont always happen. This car seemed like the perfect canidate. Great interrior and exterrior. Seamed to be good for a interrior swap.Also about working conditions, finally cleaned out half of my two car garage. There is plenty of room inside, but then under the deck i enclosed it into a car port too.
08-05-08, 11:45 AM
#18
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But if this 87 runs and drives good and only a little bit of rust id say 1000 would be a pretty good price for it, even 1500 would'nt be bad. (whats a pass set???)
08-05-08, 10:18 PM
#25
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He means that most people on internet forums have absolutely no idea what mint condition means, lol.