SHould I get an S5 GTU or keep looking for an S4 base or sport?
06-12-06, 01:38 PM
#27
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
The S5 single-piston brake rotors aren't solid, they're ventilated.
The rear rotors are solid, but they don't really matter much at all compared to the front ones.
I'd say get whatever car has the most stuff still working...lol
The rear rotors are solid, but they don't really matter much at all compared to the front ones.
I'd say get whatever car has the most stuff still working...lol
06-13-06, 11:14 PM
#29
Originally Posted by adrock3217
Uh, just so you know..literally every single detail of that entire chart, less a few of the horsepower figures, is wrong.
http://mazdamark.com/about_the_s5_fc.htm
http://mazdamark.com/about_the_fc.htm
http://mazdamark.com/about_the_s5_fc.htm
http://mazdamark.com/about_the_fc.htm
06-14-06, 12:37 PM
#31
Originally Posted by adrock3217
Well, theres a few things to consider:
S4 Sport:
Far superior suspension
Far superior brakes
Super lightweight, more potential for being light
Lower horsepower
S5 GTU:
Crappy suspension, not suitable for racing
Crappy brakes, not safe for racing
Medium fat-ness, less potential for being light
Higher horsepower
S4 Sport/GTU OWNS S5 GTU, hands down. If you could find an S5 GTUs, you'd want to get that, though. But, the perfect car..S4 Sport/GTU with an S5 engine.
S4 Sport:
Far superior suspension
Far superior brakes
Super lightweight, more potential for being light
Lower horsepower
S5 GTU:
Crappy suspension, not suitable for racing
Crappy brakes, not safe for racing
Medium fat-ness, less potential for being light
Higher horsepower
S4 Sport/GTU OWNS S5 GTU, hands down. If you could find an S5 GTUs, you'd want to get that, though. But, the perfect car..S4 Sport/GTU with an S5 engine.
The weight difference between and S5 GTU and the lighter S4s is marginal and only really matters when wheel to wheel racing. In which case it hardley matters at all in that, all comparisions stock to stock go out the window.
IMO the best platform for a non-compeditive track day NA 2nd gen car is the S5 GTU (if you dont want to wait to find a GTUs).
1. You have a better engine (if both are in near stock form) the S5 engine has more potential for power with bolt ons.
2. The brakes will need upgrading anyway and I would never use 14-20 year old equipment on the track anyway. Thus for about 5-700$ you can convert the brake system to the 4 piston front vented rear brakes and you get all new (or remanufactured) calipers, rear rotors, pads and lines. All of which I would replace anyway. The pads would be track quality and very good. Hell you can do the conversion for under $300 with some new parts and some used if it were just a street car.
3. If you are comparing stock original supsesion you again are comparing crap to crap on a 14-20 year old car. Regardless of what they were in stock form it will all be garbage that needs to be replaced. So whether I bought an S4 sport or GTU or an S5 GTU they all need new springs and dampers by this time anyway.
4. The sway bars on many of the S5s are the larger ones. I have owned two S5 GTU both with original sway bars that were the larger type. Even so thats another fairly cheap item I have upgraded on all my cars to aftermarket anyway.
5. The higher redline of the S5 engine is SOOOO much more fun on track. I had more fun on the track in my S5 N/A than I do in my TII due to the higher redline smooth powerband that the N/A deliverd. Having that extra 1k rpm to theoretically play with is huge...
6. The one you didnt metion that is often argued is the LSD. But this argument again falls flat due to age. 14-20 year old Clutch LSD with any apriciably millage on them are shot. I have seen many clutch type LSDs not worth **** after 50k miles. So if it hasnt been rebuilt that you know of it probably isnt much better than an open diff. For a track car I would want the Viscous or Helical type over those anyway (at least for all tracks that arent a 1/4 mile striaght line (BORING)).
Thus, I would be swaping in a miata torsen anyway. Start with an S5 or S4 with LSD and the same work and cost is involved to change it to a miata carrier...
Last edited by RockLobster; 06-14-06 at 12:45 PM.
06-14-06, 12:54 PM
#32
One of the best things they ever did to any FC to make it fun on the track was put the 4.3 LSD rear end. So while upgrading and rebuilding the diff to a miata carrier i would also pu 4.3 gears in there and you will have yourself a blast out on the track.....
07-03-06, 09:10 AM
#33
THE Mazdabator
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some post are too long, but as a mechanic, i do realize that it is cheaper and easier to do spring/strut upgrades with a brake upgrade (esp the bolt on crap)
engine swaps arent for everyone, its quite difficult and costly/time costly to do if you dont have the right equipment, as for brakes and suspension components, a 17mm wrench, 12mm 14mm and i think 21 and 19... maybe a 18 somewhere is enough...just get a jack and stand with crafts man set of wrenches lol...
and yes the body condition is the MOST important to me, since you cant find one without a hole in between the firewall and rockerpanel...
except for me i dunno how i scored a 91 coupe auto with 57k on chassi for...$XXX.XX lol i guess with that low milage it is worth welding the correct 5spd mount onto the tunnel... if i can find someone that can weld, or just make sturdy adaptors..
engine swaps arent for everyone, its quite difficult and costly/time costly to do if you dont have the right equipment, as for brakes and suspension components, a 17mm wrench, 12mm 14mm and i think 21 and 19... maybe a 18 somewhere is enough...just get a jack and stand with crafts man set of wrenches lol...
and yes the body condition is the MOST important to me, since you cant find one without a hole in between the firewall and rockerpanel...
except for me i dunno how i scored a 91 coupe auto with 57k on chassi for...$XXX.XX lol i guess with that low milage it is worth welding the correct 5spd mount onto the tunnel... if i can find someone that can weld, or just make sturdy adaptors..
