I want to take my FC to mazfest here in Cali this year, the drive is about 2 hours away so I want to make sure my car makes it to it and back.

it was tuned last year with problems.
-Microtech lt-8 couldn't read the water temperature(found out a cable was cut when I swapped the secondary injectors
-westgate actuator was installed wrong and westgate was open at all times.
this is the graph.


I dont have a wideband.
I use a microtech hand display for turbo boost (psi) instead of a gauge. Tuner said it was reading it wrong when he was tuning but the fact is that he tuned it with the westgate open, I don't think the turbo was able to build much psi since it was all leaking from the westgate.
car runs and drivers but I get a **** load of backfire and it bugs down after 6500 rpm.

mods:
s5 Mild Street Port motor
1000 sec, 550 primary injectors
Microtech Lt-8
s5 turbo upgrade to t04, upgraded westgate actuator to 14psi spring (similar to BNR stage 4)
Jrx V-mount
stock coils
3" dp to 3" RB pre-silencer to 3" apexi cat-back single

I had maybe driven the car about 2000 miles since the tune, It's been store and turning it on every 2 weeks.

Should I drive it or wait until I get it re-tune?

 

I would either get it re-tuned or get a good data log and send it to a reputable tuner for analysis.

 

you been driving it this long not sure why you are asking this now?

 

short trips, less than 20mins drive, didn't thought about until now.

 

obviously it would be wise to get the issues sorted and tuned, but you could probably drive it as long as it will not boost, not even a little bit. I would not even take the chance of a little bit especially if you get caught up in a caravan and start to drive a little nutty.
Make sure the car cannot build any boost and you will probably be ok if you really dont want to miss it.

Most people break their motors in with no boost with rough street tunes than once broken in they get a full tune under boost

 

what do you think I should disconnect so it wont build any boost?

 

removing BOV is probably easiest

 

how about the wastegate?

 

Why run the risk of popping the motor? Get it sorted out.


300hp with the gate hanging open, pretty impressive! Now fix it.

 

its a s5 turbo so it has internal westegate


wish I had the cash, my pops got laid off since new years and hasn't been able to get a job. I pay the house and bills which is above 2g's not much money to spend on my hobby.

15g's sitting down on my garage, sigh.

 

That sucks.... This economy is crushing a lot of dreams.

 

I guess I'm going to sit this one out again, sigh...

 

good idea

fix the ECT wiring so that the coolant temp maps can be fixed, i'm surprised you can even warm up the car without it.

i would also talk to nelson and see what else he recommended. a faulty ECT won't make the car break up at that power level so the tuning was overly rich due to the coolant temp sender issue, you are having ignition issues or something else is going on that needs to be sorted out. i wouldn't push your luck until it can be put back on the rollers and the green light passed down, according to that dyno i would say it isn't ready to be pushed to its limits as it sits.

 

......................meanwhile TWO THOUSAND MILES later

 

everything has been fixed, the ignition issue was my alt and I replace it with a FD one.

 

this economy is destroying dreams. i built a race car thats a gigantic paper weight while school shakes me down for 3 grand every 5 months.

dont drive it until its fixed, esp turbo. i popped my NA motor on the first tank of gas and it cost me multiple years of my life.

 

my last post was retarded, while the electrical issues have been fixed, I do need to upgrade my ignition to support the power I have, I would love to get a twin power but then comes up again my problem with money at the moment

 

you should not need to upgrade your ignition at that power level unless you are having voltage issues from the main relay feeding the ignition system. the stock coils with BUR9EQ plugs all around can rather easily support up to 350whp without an ignition amplifier on pump gas. if you are running ethanol then i could foresee the need to upgrade. if the alternator was crapping out and the ignition voltage was dropping below 10v then yes, it could have been a contributor but not the sole problem. voltage will affect everything, including fuel to the engine and if that same voltage was applied to the fuel pump your engine may have been tuned to run on less fuel, which it is now getting more of, basically fixing one problem but unmasking another(tuned to improper perameters) which should have been explained to you.

i would have to guess your AFRs are stupid rich beyond 5k RPMs which is what is causing the breakup(sub 10:1 AFR). perhaps he tuned it that way to give room from drivability at colder temperatures since there is no engine coolant temp correction. the coolant temp sender should be your number 1 priority before trying to tune it properly, assuming voltage is now at the proper 13v+ levels.

the ECT is a very simple circuit though, and it makes me shrug why he would pat you on the *** and send you on your way without even giving a quick attempt to fix it. it is quite literally 2 wires and the factory ECT sensors are a dime a dozen and can even be ordered aftermarket for about $15 if it happens to be broken. the circuit is a 5 volt reference and a voltage sensing circuit wire. the 5v reference is shared among all the other misc sensors in the harness so even if the wire got chopped it is easy to splice off another circuit. the microtech functions very similarly to the factory engine harness/sensors in this respect since it utilizes all factory sensors on the engine.

if it were me and i wasn't going to attempt to fix the ECT circuit for whatever reason i would have stopped tuning, because it is a wasted effort that would have to be redone anyways. all the power maps will be affected by trying to create an all around conservative map without coolant temp correction. a mass of problems may have been present, but still, why spend the time when it isn't safe to drive under full power..

you should be ok to drive it under modest conditions, say 4-5psi but i wouldn't go beyond that until the issues are resolved.