bobmugen

Hey I saw this rx-7 for sale here are the details:

1988 mazda rx-7 for sale $800, kelley blue book is $2900 in fair condition (private party)

-clean title
-smogged and registered or 07'
-cd/mp3 player
-a/c
-momo sheering wheel
-200k miles,13b rotary engine, will go forever
-very sporty
-minor body damage. All you need to do is replace sunroof, side fenders (60$ each). cheap paint job at earl scheib (250$). With that it could look like a million bucks.
-newer tires
-5 speed standard transmission
-new alternator belt, ac belt, power steering belt, and a fan belt
-new radiator
-new battery

I haven't had the car that long and I decided to resale because I got approved for a car loan and I ended up just buying a new car. All the dealership would give me is $300 for it, as a trade-in. It runs ok, it might need a tune-up, the brakes need to be bled, and the belts are making a skreeching sound after it warms up (maybe to tight), but otherwise is very strong with lots of power.
and then a email:
other than what i said in the ad, there is nothing else wrong with the car, that i know of. gas mileage is low, about 20 hw


Notice it has 200k miles on it, is it true that these 13b rotary engines last forever? Sorry I don't know much about the engine.

The lady or girl said she will sell it to me for $600 because she needs cash or something and since I am not an expert on rx-7s, YET , so this is why i am asking the skilled knowledge of the people on this forum. So reply and tell me if i should buy it or if i shouldn't buy it and why.

Thanks

TehMonkay

iTrader: (-1)

Get it compression tested, see if it smokes white or blue on startup. Make sure the frame is straight and drive it first.

Go into the faq and you will find a link on what to look for when buying an RX-7.

IBMX

thats sounds like a decent deal especially if its running.
and any engine will last forever if you take care of it and know what your doing.

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

Make sure it's good. You'll pay way more than $2900 in the long run if it's not.
buyer's guide: http://www.rx7.voodoobox.net/infofaq/bguide/bguide.html
another buyer's guide, general info: www.aaroncake.net

Sending any old car to a mechanic for an inspection before you buy is generally a good idea. Also lookup "fuel pulsation dampener" with this forum's search tool (it tends to leak and start engine fires), especially if you smell gas. If you have a safe, wide open area, you can check the car's DTSS (passive rear wheel steering) by taking a hard turn until it slides or comes close to sliding. Massive oversteer - i.e., spinning in the direction of the turn - means the DTSS is shot. Not to mention unsafe in an emergency. Parts cost $180 to replace it or $40 to get rid of DTSS. An awkward feeling of almost losing grip w/o actually losing it means the DTSS is good. DTSS allows extra grip in hard trips but the turn feels awkward when it "activates".

After you get an RX-7, I'd get a Haynes manual (or use the FAQ's free FSM), an OEM thermostat (e.g., from a Mazda dealer or www.rx7.com), change out all the fluids, filters, etc. The full maintenance list is in the owner's manual and in the Haynes manual as well.
Check this forum's search tools and FAQ for more information or any other questions you may have. Questions like yours come daily.


about seller's claims: There are 4 belts, so seller replaced them all. The Haynes manual has info on tightening, replacing, checking for cracks, etc. A cheap Earl Scheib paint job is not pretty, but it'll do if the old paint is really shot. Good paint jobs are $1500+. New OEM fenders are $500 each. Cheap, thin aftermarket ones are ~$100 ($200?). Junkyard fenders are ~$30. A slapper & dolly kit is ~$30. I'd just use the slapper (no hammers) to beat dents to within 1/8" of perfect, then follow Bondo's instructions from there. Primer any bare metal to prevent rust. Body work is a real pain, btw, mainly b/c body panels are really hard to get off (rusted bolts in ultra-cramped quarters, etc.). And this is assuming you're gonna get the car painted afterwards. Otherwise I'd leave it alone rather than making ugly patches of primer. Paintless ding removal costs about $50 (more for multiple dings).

TehMonkay

iTrader: (-1)

dont trust a dealer unless there is a mechanic there that really knows the difference between a crankshaft and an eccentric shaft.

bobmugen

The person lives pretty far away from me and I do not know any mechanics in that area. Is it ok if I don't take it to a mechanic?

micah

A note on the mileage.. Its rare to see a 200k+ mile RX-7... it happens... if properly maintained, these cars will go 300k+ in theory... a normally driven rx-7 at 200k miles I would imagine is near the end of its life.. but for 600 bucks, I couldn't argue it... for a RUNNING rx-7.

I paid 600 bucks for my 91 parts car in non-running condition...

clokker

iTrader: (2)

This sets off a warning bell for me.
Fenders I can understand but how does a sunroof suffer body damage that isn't rust? Dings and dents are one thing (and I should know since my car has a million) but rust is a major pain to deal with.
As a longtime (40+ years!) car enthusiast I've come to the opinion that mechanical problems can be dealt with but body rust is almost always a car killer unless you are willing to deal with it quickly and comprehensively.

Which can be ridiculously expensive if you aren't prepared/capable of doing it yourself.