i have been haveing problems with my car loseing power over night and have tried the pull the fuse method cause i knew it was a short in the engine and i found out it was the egi fuse. what is it that the egi does? and what does it run? cause once i find the full cause i wont have to disconnect my battery everynight espically cause here in kansas it has been really cold.

 

The EGI fuse powers the entire engine management system (EGI = electronic gasoline injection).

Probably the most common cause of shorts in the EGI circuit is one of the solenoid valves on the ACV (the large assembly on the right side of the intake manifold) breaking in half, exposing the live terminal which can then short on the engine. Have a look at those.

 

not to hijack this thread, but im also having the same issue. Wondering which other items may contribute to blowing the EGI fuse upon startup. iv blown 3 already attempting to start the car but it blows instantly when the key is turned to ignition *note: no emissions items present*

 

if it is a TII check the *i believe its called* the AWS solenoid on the back of theTB. if you removed emissions, this wire might be hanging down and can touch the downpipe, thus shorting it to ground.
just a thought. i had that happen to me once. its a simple fix which is good.
if not that one, just look around the engine bay for wires from stuff you unplugged when you did emissions removal.

 

I had a frayed wire on the harness for my pressure sensor ground out and blow a fuse

 

Could be injector wires also, I think they are fed from the EGI Fuse and they are powered all the time (ground to fire.)

 

Not trying to intrude but I took my car around the block no power barley moves whole car shakes as low rpm and runs ROUGH. I cam to a stop sign and went to turn the blinker on . I heard it but no light in the dash then as I was making the turn the freakin door ajar light started flashing like the blinker light . So what in the dash shorted out anybody have any clues and would this be the cause of my problem possibly an ignition problem under the dash ?

 

Your post has nothing to do with this thread. Please start a new one.

 

Well, not to be the black speck in the glass of milk, but can anybody explain how the EGI fuse causes a loss of power overnight? Since it goes nowhere if the Main Relay is not pulled in (key ON).

Humor me. I didn't really think about this for more than a second or two. How does that work?

 

i feel ya on that one. i still havent figured it out yet. i have the car run and shut it off and it makes this clicking noise. i pull the egi fuse and it quits. put it back in and starts again. im puzzled myself cause its the engine fuses not interior. but i havent the time or money to figure it out in depth and its been so cold here.

 

I took a look at the Wiring Diagram Once.it looked like all the Senders that were On the engine actually are Incorporated with the EGI fuse..A buddy had his Fuse popping all teh time..turned out to be a Bad Temp sender wire,shorting out Behind the Alternator..that is a bad spot where the Wires get briitle from heat..I would at laest Start there..you have sourced it so far..Go the rest of the way.

 

ive heard stories of bad alternator connections that caused shorts with in the car. = blow up fuses

 

That's a good idea in my opinion. The EGI fuse can't feed the solenods/ECU/Injectors with the key to OFF because that power passes thru the Main Relay which is pulled in only when the key is to ON.

But there is a connecton b/t the EGI fuse and the alternators small plug. It's the white/blue wire on that two wire plug.

So try this. Instead of pulling the EGI fuse, pull the small plug from the alternator instead and see if that keeps the batt from draining. Probably will.

I didn't realize this was a series five car when I wrote my first post above. ON a series four there is no connection like this to the alt from the EGI fuse(s).

The W/L(white/blue) comes off the Battery bus in the first jpg (3). In the second jpg you see the (3) going to the fuse (EGI).

 

i will definaatly try that but what could the clicking noise be from.

 

Oops. I missed that. If it is a very rapid clicking noise, reach over there and pull the elect plug off the BAC. I bet it stops.

IF that is the case, and the key was off when the clicking happened, then for some reason your Main Relay MIGHT be still pulled in. Shouldn't be pulled in with the key to OFF. So pull the trail coil up and out of the way. Leave it's sparkplug wires etc on, just move it to the side. Then pull the smaller, two wire plug off the Main Relay and see if the clicking stops. IF it does not, then pull the four wire connector off the Main Relay and see what happens. Write back one way or the other.

And........have you done any alternator work on the car lately? Any radio installation? Any aftermarket electronics installation?

 

+1 Hailers post, BAC valve buzzing, which should only happen with ignition on. You should focus on any noise with the key off. If anything still buzzes with the key on, see what feeds it and where it grounds and check all switches and relays.

You can get an idea of where the drain is coming from by unhooking battery (-) and putting a multimeter on Amps in between battery and clamp and pulling one fuse at a time. Icemark had a post this week on the procedure.

 

soory it took so long to reply but i had the alternator checked and it works fine. havent checked the connection. and it wasnt recently when i put the stereo and amp in my car it was back in the summer. it didnt start doing all this stuff till it got cold a couple of months ago. im gonna check what u said first and ill let u know. once again sorry bout not reply till now it has been one of those years