Reted specifies 6 mm minimum-5 washers.

FSM specs 6mm protrusion for the thermal wax @140*.

What is the max? My 'stack' of 7mm washers is either 5 mm (4 washers) or 7.2 mm (5 washers).

I don't think 5mm will do the trick, but will 7.2 mm fit? I don't want to torque that bolt down if 7.2 mm is too much.

Any one?

Bueller?

 

I see you got the pulleys off...what was up with that?

As to your question, sorry have no clue...I used an Atkins pellet delete instead of shimming the stocker.

 

Impatience. There is a little bracket that fits around the 19mm eccentric bolt. It looked like it was captive under the bolt but it wasn't. I gently rocked on the pully stack and they came off, bracket and all.

 

What the hell. I put it back together with 7.2mm. We will find out tomorrow.

 

I think 7.2mm should be fine. I just went by the writeup here on Ted's page: http://www.fc3spro.com/TECH/MODS/ENG.../etpbypass.htm. It specifies >= 6 mm or >= 6.5mm (different values on each page). I just did this recently, but I can't remember how thick my washer stack was. I think it was closer to 6mm.

On a side note, did you brace the clutch pedal down before spinning the e-shaft bolt loose?

 

Thanks! I knew I had seen that 6.5mm somewhere in the past. I just couldn't find it again. I used Teds tutorial as a guide.

How did your oil pressure respond to the mod?


Yes I did.


I buttoned it up last night. Now back to the Water pump. I woulda gotten finished and had the vert back on the road but I had to take some time out to recharge the a/c on a 2001 540i.

 

Oil pressure may be a little higher initially on cold starts, but it's barely noticeable. I'm pretty certain my thermal pellet was working just fine before I shimmed it. Still useful in the long run, and better for the rotors.

 

what does bracing the clutch pedal down do, the write up on fc3spro doesnt say anything about it

 

http://mazdatrix.com/faq/pulley.htm

 

holy **** and to think i was going to do it the way fc3spro said to do it(doesnt say anything about holding down the clutch)

holding down the clutch WILL prevent spacer from falling? or is it 50/50

 

Supposed to be the proper procedure for in car repair. I did mine that way last night. I will see when I get it on the road.

 

man i really hope it does 100% work for ur sake, def update! i want to do this but im too scared to do it now lol

i really was, today, going to do this mod, **** im glad i know now

 

The problem with wedging the clutch pedal down is that the engine will be able to spin freely. You have to either rest a breaker bar on the frame-rail and hit the starter, or use an impact gun. Of course, if you leave the radiator in, a lot of impact guns will not fit in the space available. There's no way to use a breaker bar to pop it loose by hand. There's a whole lot of loctite on the bolt too, so it takes a hell of a lot of force to pop loose. It almost rivals the flywheel nut.

I actually removed the bolt without bracing the clutch because I was thinking about it the wrong way, and didn't have all the info I should have had. I would have used the starter trick, but I was worried it could damage anything I had near the framerail. But I got very lucky and did not have the thrust bearing drop simply because I did not even touch the pulley/hub. I just carefully unscrewed the bolt & replaced it. If the hub would have moved the slightest bit forward, the bearing would have dropped out of place and I'd have ended up with screwed up endplay and pieces of metal in the oil. I checked for both of these things after I found the Mazdatrix write up and some others threads on here, and was relieved to find everything was still ok. This mod has the potential to make you take apart the whole front of the engine to fix what you did, so brace the clutch and use the starter/impact gun.

 

You can leave the clutch engaged, to loosen the nut/break it free, then brace the clutch after that.

 

I broke it free with the breaker bar and starter method. My impact gun was not up to the task and I didn't want to mess with the torch to beat up the loctite.

Clutch was to the floor with a nicely padded 2x4 braced against the front of the seat.

 

so the clutch does make the diffrence.. makes sense, the clutch pressed down forces the clutch fork to the front of the engine. im guessing that it hold that little free play in place, keeping that spacer from falling i dont think im so worried to do it now