Shimming the thermal pellet
08-01-09, 08:17 PM
#1
Shimming the thermal pellet
Reted specifies 6 mm minimum-5 washers.
FSM specs 6mm protrusion for the thermal wax @140*.
What is the max? My 'stack' of 7mm washers is either 5 mm (4 washers) or 7.2 mm (5 washers).
I don't think 5mm will do the trick, but will 7.2 mm fit? I don't want to torque that bolt down if 7.2 mm is too much.
Any one?
Bueller?
FSM specs 6mm protrusion for the thermal wax @140*.
What is the max? My 'stack' of 7mm washers is either 5 mm (4 washers) or 7.2 mm (5 washers).
I don't think 5mm will do the trick, but will 7.2 mm fit? I don't want to torque that bolt down if 7.2 mm is too much.
Any one?
Bueller?
08-01-09, 10:44 PM
#4
Reted specifies 6 mm minimum-5 washers.
FSM specs 6mm protrusion for the thermal wax @140*.
What is the max? My 'stack' of 7mm washers is either 5 mm (4 washers) or 7.2 mm (5 washers).
I don't think 5mm will do the trick, but will 7.2 mm fit? I don't want to torque that bolt down if 7.2 mm is too much.
Any one?
Bueller?
FSM specs 6mm protrusion for the thermal wax @140*.
What is the max? My 'stack' of 7mm washers is either 5 mm (4 washers) or 7.2 mm (5 washers).
I don't think 5mm will do the trick, but will 7.2 mm fit? I don't want to torque that bolt down if 7.2 mm is too much.
Any one?
Bueller?
08-01-09, 10:48 PM
#5
I think 7.2mm should be fine. I just went by the writeup here on Ted's page: http://www.fc3spro.com/TECH/MODS/ENG.../etpbypass.htm. It specifies >= 6 mm or >= 6.5mm (different values on each page). I just did this recently, but I can't remember how thick my washer stack was. I think it was closer to 6mm.
On a side note, did you brace the clutch pedal down before spinning the e-shaft bolt loose?
On a side note, did you brace the clutch pedal down before spinning the e-shaft bolt loose?
08-02-09, 07:31 AM
#6
I think 7.2mm should be fine. I just went by the writeup here on Ted's page: http://www.fc3spro.com/TECH/MODS/ENG.../etpbypass.htm. It specifies >= 6 mm or >= 6.5mm (different values on each page). I just did this recently, but I can't remember how thick my washer stack was. I think it was closer to 6mm.
How did your oil pressure respond to the mod?
Yes I did.
I buttoned it up last night. Now back to the Water pump. I woulda gotten finished and had the vert back on the road but I had to take some time out to recharge the a/c on a 2001 540i.
Trending Topics
08-02-09, 01:30 PM
#9
ANYONE changing a front pulley, or loosening the front eccentric shaft bolt for ANY reason!, needs to be aware of what can go wrong with the torrington thrust bearings inside the front cover/front of engine!!
Before we wade through this FAQ, the way to prevent the problem from happening in the first place is to, (BEFORE! you loosen the bolt):
1) If the engine is in the car (this DOES NOT APPLY for 93-95's) do something to wedge the clutch pedal down -- meaning a 2x4 or something like it, holding the pedal down and wedged against steering wheel or front of the seat.
2) If the engine is out of the car, set it with the flywheel down, front pulley up, the whole time you are working on the front of the engine. Do not roll the engine horizontal until the front bolt is tightened.
Before we wade through this FAQ, the way to prevent the problem from happening in the first place is to, (BEFORE! you loosen the bolt):
1) If the engine is in the car (this DOES NOT APPLY for 93-95's) do something to wedge the clutch pedal down -- meaning a 2x4 or something like it, holding the pedal down and wedged against steering wheel or front of the seat.
2) If the engine is out of the car, set it with the flywheel down, front pulley up, the whole time you are working on the front of the engine. Do not roll the engine horizontal until the front bolt is tightened.
08-02-09, 07:06 PM
#13
The problem with wedging the clutch pedal down is that the engine will be able to spin freely. You have to either rest a breaker bar on the frame-rail and hit the starter, or use an impact gun. Of course, if you leave the radiator in, a lot of impact guns will not fit in the space available. There's no way to use a breaker bar to pop it loose by hand. There's a whole lot of loctite on the bolt too, so it takes a hell of a lot of force to pop loose. It almost rivals the flywheel nut.
I actually removed the bolt without bracing the clutch because I was thinking about it the wrong way, and didn't have all the info I should have had. I would have used the starter trick, but I was worried it could damage anything I had near the framerail. But I got very lucky and did not have the thrust bearing drop simply because I did not even touch the pulley/hub. I just carefully unscrewed the bolt & replaced it. If the hub would have moved the slightest bit forward, the bearing would have dropped out of place and I'd have ended up with screwed up endplay and pieces of metal in the oil. I checked for both of these things after I found the Mazdatrix write up and some others threads on here, and was relieved to find everything was still ok. This mod has the potential to make you take apart the whole front of the engine to fix what you did, so brace the clutch and use the starter/impact gun.
I actually removed the bolt without bracing the clutch because I was thinking about it the wrong way, and didn't have all the info I should have had. I would have used the starter trick, but I was worried it could damage anything I had near the framerail. But I got very lucky and did not have the thrust bearing drop simply because I did not even touch the pulley/hub. I just carefully unscrewed the bolt & replaced it. If the hub would have moved the slightest bit forward, the bearing would have dropped out of place and I'd have ended up with screwed up endplay and pieces of metal in the oil. I checked for both of these things after I found the Mazdatrix write up and some others threads on here, and was relieved to find everything was still ok. This mod has the potential to make you take apart the whole front of the engine to fix what you did, so brace the clutch and use the starter/impact gun.
08-03-09, 07:58 AM
#15
I broke it free with the breaker bar and starter method. My impact gun was not up to the task and I didn't want to mess with the torch to beat up the loctite.
Clutch was to the floor with a nicely padded 2x4 braced against the front of the seat.
Clutch was to the floor with a nicely padded 2x4 braced against the front of the seat.
08-03-09, 12:27 PM
#16
so the clutch does make the diffrence.. makes sense, the clutch pressed down forces the clutch fork to the front of the engine. im guessing that it hold that little free play in place, keeping that spacer from falling i dont think im so worried to do it now
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