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Shifter way too stiff

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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 03:57 PM
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Shifter way too stiff

I just purchased this car as many of you may have seen in my older posts and have gotten alot of posts from me about how to fix some problems I'm having, hopefully this will be the last one. The gripe this time is the shifter, it's unbelivably stiff, going into any gear and it takes forever to shift. It also wants to grind occasionally when going into reverse. The reciepts I have from the previous owner says it has a mazdaspeed short shifter in it. Thanks in advance for any help given on this subject.
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 04:00 PM
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sounds like the clutch is worn or needs to be adjusted, when you place your foot on the clutch pedal you can feel a tiny bit of slop before some resistance, if that amount is more than approx 1/4-1/2" then the pedal free play needs to be adjusted. air in the clutch hydraulic system can also exhibit these symptoms, try bleeding the clutch system if it is not in the pedal.
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 04:09 PM
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So there's a possibility it has nothing to do with the shifter at all??? I just replaced the master cylinder and thouroghly(misspelled I think) so that shouldn't be it. How would one go about adjusting the clutch pedal? I've gotten it to go straight into the gears one time when I was getting on it but it just scratched every gear I hit so I don't just throw it really hard anymore, if this may change things any.
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 04:14 PM
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if it is grinding every gear i doubt it has anything to do with the shifter, it sounds like the clutch is dragging somehow, whether it is due to the hydraulics not working efficiently or properly due to air or misadjustment or the clutch disc grabbing on the metal rivets.

under the dash, where the pedal arm attaches to the rod that goes into the master there is a locknut and a threaded rod that can be adjusted to clean up free play in the pedal but if it is within the range i said then i doubt it is your problem and i would suspect a worn clutch if you say you bled it thoroughly.
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 04:17 PM
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Guess that's an excuse to go ahead and do an upgraded clutch and flywheel already. Wasn't really worried about it until the limits of the stock clutch were reached but might as well get it over with.
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 04:21 PM
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Short shifters are really notchy and difficult to shift even under ideal conditions. My mazdatrix short shifter is definately more precise than a stock shifter but less leverage makes it more difficult to get into gear.

So if you have a clutch issue that will help some, but you may just want to go back to a stock shifter with new bushings if this really bothers you.
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 04:31 PM
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you can do this simple test to rule out the shifter:

hold the clutch to the floor and force it into first gear, pull it into neutral and let the engine idle for about 15 second with the clutch still in and then try placing it into reverse. if it grinds still then the clutch is definitely dragging.

Last edited by RotaryEvolution; Jan 16, 2006 at 04:34 PM.
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 04:37 PM
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There's a difference between notchy and impossible to get into gear for like 3 seconds unless forced which results it it scratching or a thunk noise. You also have to stomp and apply your weight to the clutch to get the car to start, which leads me to belive it may just need to be adjusted.
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 04:45 PM
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I also had a short shifter on my srt so I know they can be a little notchy but I could still get into gears reasonably quickly.
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 05:55 PM
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A bad pilot bearing can also be the cause of the problem. If it's wasted, it can keep the input shaft spinning after the clutch is disengaged.
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 06:12 PM
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Not entirely sure where that part is but I'm assuming it's a drop the tranny fixer upper right?
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Old Jan 16, 2006 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by inflatablepets
A bad pilot bearing can also be the cause of the problem. If it's wasted, it can keep the input shaft spinning after the clutch is disengaged.


that is true, at this point it sounds like the tranny needs to be removed to find the problem.
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Old Jan 20, 2006 | 06:54 PM
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This guy I had look at it with me suggested that syncros and bearings in the tranny are going bad, found another one for 450, hopefully that gets it.
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Old Jan 20, 2006 | 07:06 PM
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Have you checked and bled the slave cyl?
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Old Jan 21, 2006 | 07:24 AM
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You can buy rebuild kits for about $450 including syncros.

Check out this site;

http://www.drivetrain.com/mazdaendload4_5sp.html

You should also be able to get a used Tranny for less than $200.
Check the "For Sale" section
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Old Jan 21, 2006 | 07:36 AM
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You can buy rebuild kits for about $450 including syncros.

Check out this site;

http://www.drivetrain.com/mazdaendload4_5sp.html

You should also be able to get a used Tranny for less than $200.
Check the "For Sale" section
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Old Jan 21, 2006 | 11:09 PM
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I replaced the clutch master and the slave cylinder with no result, I may rebuild this tranny and keep it around but I'm looking for a one day drop and replace... This is my only mode of transportation right now until I get my starion running.
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Old Jan 22, 2006 | 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by inflatablepets
A bad pilot bearing can also be the cause of the problem. If it's wasted, it can keep the input shaft spinning after the clutch is disengaged.
Why'd you replace the master and slave cylinder? Were they broken? They will either work or won't. Talk about pissing away time and money. It's the pilot bearing like I said earlier. Oh well, I might as be the RX7idjet for wasting my time trying to help people that don't listen, I mean, read.
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Old Jan 23, 2006 | 12:12 PM
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I changed them because they were bad, the clutch was staying on the floor when I engaged it to shift into any gear. Thanks for your help on this issue but that was an entirely different problem.
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