She fired up on the first crank, fresh rebuild
#1
Mr.Rota
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She fired up on the first crank, fresh rebuild
well, today I just got to the final phase of my rebuild. finished the longblock and its in the car. I got into the car turned the key and it fired right up, white smoke from the petroleum jelly burned off, success it ran for about 8 sec then died, later that night we couldnt get it started again so we compression started it behind my buddys car. it fired up but then started pulling up into the 5k rpm range so i shut it down for the night, but it is firing up but I cant figure out why its pulling while I am not giving it any gas,
also there is a long looking spring that was sitting under UIM when it was out of the car on a shelf, so I dont know if that could have something to do with it.
and my SAFC II registers my TPS sensor as 60%, So if anyone knows how to calibrate the TPS please let me know.
or any other suggestions would be appreciated
Thanks
also there is a long looking spring that was sitting under UIM when it was out of the car on a shelf, so I dont know if that could have something to do with it.
and my SAFC II registers my TPS sensor as 60%, So if anyone knows how to calibrate the TPS please let me know.
or any other suggestions would be appreciated
Thanks
#2
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#4
Passing life by
My guess is that spring was the tension retainer to the fast idle cam adjustment screw on the TB. I think the screw rattled down tightening the throttle plates down and causing it to act like you have gas applied.
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I'm still a new pup to this club, but what iceblue is saying is exactly what happened to me. I re-adjusted, then put the jam nut, which had come off, back on, and now it hasn't since. And I check that the nut is there every day when I check my oil, just in case.
PEACE THE DOG
PEACE THE DOG
#7
Mr.Rota
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I could of put on the throttle cable on wrong or a spring is missing, I am gonna troubleshoot tommorow. I been working on my 7 all day so I need a little break and I am gonna pick up where I left off tommorrow. the TPS info was very helpful thanks again
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#10
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The same happened to me. I removed the thermowax and all the other crap that was on the thottle body.
My idle cimbed to 3000rpm and once it dropped it began to hunt for idle. I had Len Bacon Come down and help me out with it.
I believe it just needs to be drivin for awhile before final adjustments.
I will set up another throttle body with thermowax on it so it will be possible to start the car in cold weather.
On another note, do you think that mpg will get better since I removed all the emmision junk and add a header and straight pipe.
My idle cimbed to 3000rpm and once it dropped it began to hunt for idle. I had Len Bacon Come down and help me out with it.
I believe it just needs to be drivin for awhile before final adjustments.
I will set up another throttle body with thermowax on it so it will be possible to start the car in cold weather.
On another note, do you think that mpg will get better since I removed all the emmision junk and add a header and straight pipe.
#12
Mr.Rota
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Originally Posted by iceblue
The reson Karack suggested the wax pallet if b/c it holds the car at 3k on start up for a minute and slowly drops it.
#13
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yah, I did a little more troubleshooting today and got the car started after pull starting, so I let it idle at 3k for about 10min then I heard a whistling sound of overpressureization, there was water shooting out of my heater core hose to the engine, I shut it down, it was boiling out but the temp gauge said it was med. so there was water on the ground and there is a oil in the water too, so I am very dissapointed and I either fuked my rebuild up, or I didnt bleed the cooling system or something but I am pretty sure my ***** warped, so I am not even gonna deal with it anymore, I am gonna get a JDM motor or something. well any suggestions or anything else would be appreciated.
Thanks
-2000.00 down the drain for a large streetported rebuild that is ****!
Thanks
-2000.00 down the drain for a large streetported rebuild that is ****!
#14
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Originally Posted by Funkspectrum
mine fired up today!
the reason i mentioned the thermowax is if the whole thing is removed the linkage can bind up and cause the throttle to stick, there is a cam that needs to be wired open if the throttle plates are not removed.
are you sure there is coolant in the oil? condensation in the oil is fairly normal on a rebuild.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 09-04-05 at 04:50 PM.
#15
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lol, a week ago I went to work on my 7, and found out it was an oil leak followed by water on the ground that spilled out from the heater core hose being loose. So yah I am so relieved. so luckily my motor did not extremely overheat, so I am good to go but I still need an aftermarket water temp gauge. as of 9/20 my motor has 300 miles on it
She just needs some more fine tuning and I need to figure out why my secondarys arnt kicking in
She just needs some more fine tuning and I need to figure out why my secondarys arnt kicking in
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