How do I set my S5 NA timing.
There are no more FSMs anywhere. All the sites are down, and every timing thread back to 2004 is either S4 or T2 instructions, or people screaming to look at the FSM sites.(which are all down)

 

Setting the timing should be the same whther it's an S4 or S5 or NA or turbo.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/new-13b-first-start-loud-boom-timing-question-978911/

http://foxed.ca/index.php?page=rx7manual#secondgen

 

Thank you, however the hubs and timing marks are different, as well as the initial set coupler.

The FSM should help.

 

Setting the timing on the series five is the same as on the series four.

Initial set coupler does not need to be jumpered especially if the rpms are under 1000 rpm.

5* ATDC is the same no matter which series. Five degrees ATDC is .......five degrees ATDC

What part of TIMING is it that your interested in? The initial stabbing of the CAS? or using a timing light with a fully warmed up engine?

I believe it's in the ENGINE ELECTRICAL section that addresses timing.

 

Clearly you're not getting this. If you have an S5 hub with a S4 main pulley the timing marks do not match the correct position. They will be off by over 30*. The hub must match the pulley. That was what my issue was. I just installed an extra RB pulley I had laying around. and got the timing set correctly. If your TPS os bad or out of adjustment you do need to jumper the initial set jumper as I just found out. If the TPS is out of adjustment it will cause the timing to jump all around no matter what the RPM. I had to first get the car idle without bouncing around 1500 like it was. Jump the initial set coupler. then set the timing. Then I was able to fiddle with the TPS to get it to calm down. The car finally idles correctly and the timing is correct, however it still has like 20 seconds of run on after the key is switched off. I'm guessing I still have TPS issues.

 

Since you did not explicitly explain your predicament it would be hard to provide information that would specifically address your problem.

 

thermo fan incorrectly wired up and is backfeeding? use a relay

 

Dittos in spades to the above from Satch.

 

Dittos to what BumpStart said above.

Backfeeding the IG1 BUS by some miswiring done. Such as fan or the two wires on the alternator being swapped around. Common problem and in no way is the TPS involved with it's puny 5vdc ref voltage signal.

Or two elect plugs connected together that were never meant to be mated, causing a back feed of IG 1 bus. Not likely though cause if that were the prolem the engine would keep on running til it ran out of gas.

 

Cool. Rewire of e-fan in progress. So many mistakes to fix. Never buy a car someone else has modded...