2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Setting the S5 TPS, other questions about...........

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Old Dec 12, 2005 | 02:03 PM
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Setting the S5 TPS, other questions about...........

i already know how to set the tps but my questiona are:

* can i set it while the car is running?
* i'm running a TII hood and all that air cool down the tps, is that
a problem??
* i can't get the timing exactly 100% on, is it because i'm running s5
wiring and ecu with a s4 motor?

just a few questions that i couldn't find info about so i thought i'd ask.
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Old Dec 12, 2005 | 03:20 PM
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If you set the TPS by voltage method and don't disconnect the TPS, sure you can set it while it's running.
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Old Dec 12, 2005 | 06:05 PM
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anyone know anything about the timing??
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Old Dec 12, 2005 | 07:27 PM
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How are you setting timing? With a timing light? How did you stab the CAS?
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Old Dec 12, 2005 | 07:53 PM
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ya i set the main pulley on the yellow mark, and then drop the CAS in with the dot lined up with the mark
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Old Dec 12, 2005 | 08:09 PM
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Did you have the top cover off of the CAS to see how the 2 top CAS teeth rotate in relation to the CAS body when you stab it? Did you adjust timing with a timing light??
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Old Dec 12, 2005 | 08:26 PM
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ok i pulled the top cover off, dropped it in with the mark lined up and the slot on the CAS centered i adjusted the cas so that the dot would be lined up when stabbed all the way in, when i hook up a timing light its about a 1/4-1/2" away from the mark, and i can't slide the CAS enough to make it line up. maybe i just need to mess with it some more. i just thought i'd ask didn't know if i was doing something wrong.
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Old Dec 12, 2005 | 09:56 PM
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Keep stabbing it so that you get that "adjustment stud" close to the center of the adjustment groove so you can go either way if needed. In my experience when you stab it correctly and then adjust it so one of the teeth on the top CAS gear points to the edge of one of the black boxes.

Let me write that a little more clearly.

Line up the dimples on the bottom of the CAS and hold it in that position. Now look at the top of the CAS with the top cover off. See where one of the 2 gear teeth are in relation to everything else under the cover. One should be right at the edge of a black box. When you stab the CAS you will see how the teeth will rotate it. Try stabbing it in so that you can that tooth closest to the black box, still with room for adjustment if needed. It may take you alot of stabs to get it right.
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 07:23 AM
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so when the CAS is out and i have the dimple lined up thats how i want it when its all the way stabbed in correct?


also another thing, how am i sure the the main pulley isn't bolted on 180 degrees off??? just thought about that, cause u can only put the main pulley on 2 ways or does that not matter???
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Luke_Tech
so when the CAS is out and i have the dimple lined up thats how i want it when its all the way stabbed in correct?


also another thing, how am i sure the the main pulley isn't bolted on 180 degrees off??? just thought about that, cause u can only put the main pulley on 2 ways or does that not matter???
yes but you will still want to double check timing with the timing light.

I'm not sure if the pulley can be put on backwards or not but you want the timing marks parallel with the timing needle when looking down. Now that I think about it the pulley should only be able to go on one way since the 4 bolt holes are offset.
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 06:28 PM
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yes i figured this out tonight, i just put my Racing Beat main pulley on. and got everything dialed in, but for some screwed up reason its still pulls a code 17. i thought tht all this may have something to do with it because with the last engine i had in it it didn't do that at all, and now that i got all this squared away it hasn't pulled the code yet, so thats good. but could a MOP cause it to throw that code also???
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 06:51 PM
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Duh. A 17 is a oxygen sensor disconnected. It's a one wire circuit. Good luck.
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 07:13 PM
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the o2 sensor is wired directly to the ecu, so what now???
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 07:22 PM
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Is the o2 sensor connector plugged into the harness?? Or did you mean you wired it directly yourself? If so then double check your work.
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 08:10 PM
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the o2 sensor is wired directly into the ecu, no other wires are attached to it beside the wire for my A/F guage
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 08:26 PM
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Bingo.

Read the output at the ECU pin with a meter and see what it reads. Engine idling and hot.
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 08:49 PM
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what should it read???
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 09:41 PM
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With no airpump, it should read 0.65 vdc give or take. With a WORKING airpump and ACV....probably about 0.10 vdc give or take.
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 09:53 PM
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with my car sitting there at idle it runs on the 3rd green mark on the rich side, is this normal??
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 10:10 PM
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I've only looked using a meter. I know nothing about narrow band 02 gauges.

I'd try to disconnect the aftermarket sensor and then reconnect the 02 to the ECU and see if things change as far as the 17 code goes. The series five manual online said it was a 02 sensor fault. About the only way you get that is is shorting the 02 wire out or disconnecting it.
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Old Dec 14, 2005 | 04:03 AM
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well damn still no luck on figure'n this **** out
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