BklynRX7

OK guys i am planning on running serpentine belts and AN oil and coolant fittings. I have a few questions:

1) if i am running a serpentine belt on my alt, waterpump, and main pulleys, do i need a seperate tensioner or will the alt adjuster be sufficent?

2) if I wanted to use AN line on turbo oil and water lines would i need anythign besides the lines and the adapters form mazdatrix?

also mazdatrix sells the AN adapters for the front housings and and oil coolers, will either on of these fit the turbo oil inlets/outlets?

RETed

How did you get this custom pulley kit?
AFAIK, no one really offers such a kit.

The stock belts are called "v-belts".
"Serpentine belts" use one big belt to connect everything (or almost everything).
If you are indeed using some kinda custom serpentine pulley kit, you NEED a tensioner pulley.


Ok, know I KNOW you're thoroughly confused.

The oil cooler fittings are like 18mm - at least the front cover one is.
The turbo oil supply like is like a 14mm fitting on the front iron.
The oil fittings on the turbo are FLANGED.

What exactly are you trying to do???
Waste money on AN fittings for your stock turbo???

NO, THEY DO NOT FIT.


-Ted

BklynRX7

For the serpentien belts, i know what they are. I was planning on using RE pulleys and a FD alternator. I was told it would fit by more than one person including one who claims theyre using it now.

As for the AN fittings I am confused. I know the stock turbo oil lines are unthreaded but when i saw the adapters on mazdatrix I figured they were the stock setup and needed to ask. Now i know.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, you can use the RE pulleys, and just tension it with the alt (so long as that's all you're using on it), I think Ted was referring to if you were using the same belt for the AC/PS/waterpump/alt/crank, then it'd need a tensioner and a couple of idlers probably as well.

stevensimon

iTrader: (11)

i just want to throw my hat in the ring. serpentine kits for the fc's are getting pretty common. i am going to keep my cash cause it doesnt seem worth anything but they say if you are running only the water pump and alt then you should be fine with just the adjuster.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

I've picked up 3 RE sets for only $20, compared to the price of some new v-belts and a dual alt pulley, that's usually a cheaper route!

RETed

Ah, if you had mentioned that you were thinking of using Cosmo RE pulleys, that would've minimize the confusion!
I dunno if you know this, but the Cosmo RE pulleys only cover the main, water pump, and alternator?
The PS and AC are still v-belt, even on the Cosmo.


-Ted

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

As others have mentioned, the Mazdatrix adapters are not what you need.

If you want to go all AN for the stock turbo, there is some fudging involved.

Russel makes a TO3 drain flange with a -10AN fitting. Just so happens that this perfectly fits the stock turbo feed flange. Seals with an o-ring. You then need to deal with the other end of the feed. The block already has a banjo fitting on the front iron. So all you need is the appropriate metric adapter to -4 or -6 AN, a 90 degree hose end, then another hose end either straight or 45 degrees on the turbo side. Remember that you'll need a -10 to -4/-6 adapter to match the hose end.

The drain is a pain in the butt. The S4 turbo doesn't have enough clearance to fit AN fittings underneath, so you'll need to hack the stock drain tube. Cut off the engine side and then braze on a copper 1/2" NPT plumbing fitting. ATP turbo (http://www.atpturbo.com ) sells a TO4 drain flange with a 1/2" NPT end on it which bolts to the front cover. Use the appropriate 1/2" NPT to -10 or -12 AN adapters, and the appropriate hose ends (likely 2 45 degree swivels).

For coolant, you need to get creative. Russel and Earls both sell banjo bolts that fit the water inlet/outlet on the stock turbo. I don't remember the measurement, but it might be M14? The banjo bolt terminates in an -6 AN fitting. You now need to replace the feed from the manifold. Braze on the appropriat AN fitting to the stock flange after you cut off the feed tube. The drain end goes to the back of the water pump housing. So you need to drill out the nipple, tap for 1/4" NPT and then use an adapter.

Lots of work.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

just curious why?

Why spend money for mods that - really - don't do jack......save for kinda looking neat (although contrasted with a stock turbo it would be kinda funny)

...just curious....

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Because it's a non-turbo, so stock is pretty much nonexistant. As for the pulleys, they're dirt cheap and it doesn't slip.

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

Atkins offers one for the Turbo, I have it.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Which is pretty damn expensive compared to RE pulleys

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

More reliable, easier replacement if they do fail, easier removal and installation, nicer looking, etc.

Ah, that's something I missed...

So to modify my instructions slightly:

-To get the oil feed, you need a source of oil. This has been posted many, many times. The easiest way is to probably use a RB or Speed Machine oil filter pedistole. It provides two 1/8" NPT ports, one of which you can use with the appropriate 1/8" to -4 or -6 AN adapter. The other port can be used for a oil temp or pressure gauge, or blocked. You can also tap off of the oil pressure sender, but it requires heading to a hydraulic shop for the appropriate plumbing parts (1/8" BSPT) and adapters. You can get more creative and tap the oil cooler banjo bolts, weld a bung onto the cooler, make custom oil cooler lines with a T installed, etc.

-Water can be sourced from the feed to the throttle body. If all your throttle body coolant stuff is still there, then connect in series. If that stuff is gone, then tap the rear iron for 1/4" NPT and use the appropriate NPT to AN adapter.

BklynRX7

OK thats kinda helpfull. To be clearer I am turboing my n/a using a RE front cover. Ill be using the stock oil return line from the turbo to the front cover. I want to draw oil from the stock sender location (1/8 NPT). I Also want to take the coolant as described above, from the rear housing into the turbo, then back out into the TB. What are the best fittings and line sizes for this?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I'm pretty sure I covered all the line fittings you need between my two posts. The stock oil tap for the pressure sensor is NOT 1/8" NPT as I indicated in my 2nd post. It is 1/8" BSPT, which is hard to find so you need to go to a hydraulic shop. So you'll likely need a 1/8" BSPT tee fitting, 1/8" BSPT female coupler (to attach your oil pressure sender) and then a 1/8" BSPT adapter to 1/8" NPT female for your oil take off. Then 1/8" NPT to -4 or -6 AN for the feed line, with the appropriate hose end.

For the coolant lines, -6 is closest to stock.

For the oil lines, either -6 or -4 is normally used for the feed. -10 is the minimum for the drain.

I should mention that AN stuff is not cheap. The cost of hose ends and adapters adds up VERY quickly.

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

^^^ i second that vote. i payed about 80 bucks for fittings and hose for my oil return.

HAILERS

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/gro...D=PLUMADAPTBSP

Lucky13

i wish i had the link, but there is a company making the serpentine belt conversion (includes pulley's and belts) i think it was going for around 300

BklynRX7

Holy crap, mine is costing me about $40 tops.

1987RX7guy

iTrader: (3)

The 300 dollar kit was probably Mazda Racing.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Or atkins

RETed

Sorry, I would never buy anything from them nor do I peruse their products.


-Ted

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

There's also another kit made by RX-7 Specialties in Calgary. I think they are selling for something like $400 Canadian?

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

LOLOL..... I dont blame you. My last rebuild by them lasted less than 100 miles dues to a faulty Oil Pump. Worn Keys....... GO figure!

BklynRX7

LOL that seems to be the trend. All ive heard lately is horror stories from atkins and pineapple. Im still buying that alt- relocation though.