I have an 88 Turbo II and it has some serious issues with starting and now maintaining it's running state.
Part is due to bad fuel injectors and part is due to coroding wiring and faulting electrical systems on the car.
So my question is would buying a new engine help
(the one I have has almost 130k miles on it) or should I try and replace everything on the engine?

Or should I just sell the car and start anew with some other one?

Any opinion is welcome and apriciated

 

Without some more specific info on the actual problems you’re having, it’s really hard to answer your questions. Most of the common problems with these cars are fixable (thanks to forums like this), so don’t give up just yet. Give us all the info you can on your car, it’s problems/symptoms and any mods. Let us try to help you!

 

well lets think for a min. how is a new engine going to fix bad injectors and bad wiring the wiring will just get way worse when you remove/ reinstall it. unless you plan on buying a new harness which is $$$

 

You may want to try to evaluate the condition of your engine by doing a compression check, if you have never done this then take it to a mechanic. That will decide alot about where to start the repairs. A turbo II with a 130k... your kinda over due for an engine so don't be suprised.

 

The injectors are spraying to much gas(leaking) even when the car is off so it is flooding itself. That's why it has trouble starting. Tonight I was driving it and it just died the tach dropped to zero and it wouldn't turn back over until I jumped it for 30 minutes. In order to keep the car from flooding the last mechanic to see it told me to disconnect the negative connection to the battery if the car was to be sitting any longer than an hour. I've been doing that and this afternoon when I went to start the car I had to jump start it after the car had been sitting for over 12 hours.

There are no mods done to the car I bought it for $900 and I was aware that it had and oil leak a feul leak and a coolant leak. I got all the leaks fixed but I only replaced one of the fuel injectors which was causing the first leak and after it was put back together we found out about the other injectors that were bad( we did replace the seals on all of the injectors). The exhaust manifold and the turbine housing were cracked to hell so I bought used ones off of another 88 TII and the twin scroll had been removed from that one and the compressor itself had slack in it which told me that the seal was going bad. I replaced the alternator and the battery right after I got the car and it would start just fine but it was still leaking. In order to get the car to idle I had to set it to 1500 RPMs or else it would not idle on it's own before and after I got the 3 leaks fixed.

So now the car won't start and won't run for an extended period of time. And that is everything that has happened involving my 10th Anniversary RX-7 since Dec. of 2001 that I can think of right now. Thanks for the help in advance.

 

Flooding while running can be an inidicator of low compression, so you might have your local mazda dealership do a "ROTARY SPECIFIC" compression test on the engine. You should get back 6 numbers.

If they're low, then I'd recommend doing a "do it yourself" rebuild on the engine before the apex seals to pop.

 

A place here in Houston called MazMax did a comprssion test on the car right before I bought it and I did get 6 numbers back I just can't find the shet with them on there right now. But they did tell me that the compression was low I think it was supposed to be around the 8's and it was high 6's.

 

bump

 

mazda compression numbers are more like 185, 160, 220 or something like that. If they give you a single number that probably means they used a piston compression tester.

 

All of your symptoms point to dirty injectors. The pintle can't seal closed properly so they leak when the engine's off because of residual pressure in the fuel system. This is the #1 cause of flooding in these cars. Remove the injectors and have them professionally cleaned.

 

The motor will still turn over with leaking injectors. If the motor does not turn over and you have to jump it to make it turn you have another problem.

Rob

 

Find out what those number's they gave you mean. The 88 FSM says compression should be 588kPa, 6.0kg/cm², 85psi @ 250rpm.

 

I don't have the mechanical know how to get to all 4 of the injectors myself and I only have an idea of where 2 of them are. But I'm also pretty sure the wiring is bad.

I'm really thinking about seeing what I can get for it and just stat over with one with fewer problems.