seized apex seal = rotor damage?
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,189
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From: Woodbine, MD
the best upgrade is to replace as many parts as you can with new. i've done a couple of new engines, and they ALWAYS run way better.
the FC and FD use the same corner seals, the FD spring is a good choice although the Rx8 spring is cheaper.
stat gears hardly ever fail, if you are going to run more than 8000rpm you should consider it, but under that you're fine.
the FD/Rx8 bearings are a production version of the competition bearings, they aren't needed under 8000rpm, but if you're buying bearings might as well.
you should consider the FD oil pressure regulator, its $30 new.
i've never used anything except OEM water seals, so i don't know about the pineapple ones, but the OE water seals will actually put up with quite a lot of abuse when they aren't 25 years old
the FC and FD use the same corner seals, the FD spring is a good choice although the Rx8 spring is cheaper.
stat gears hardly ever fail, if you are going to run more than 8000rpm you should consider it, but under that you're fine.
the FD/Rx8 bearings are a production version of the competition bearings, they aren't needed under 8000rpm, but if you're buying bearings might as well.
you should consider the FD oil pressure regulator, its $30 new.
i've never used anything except OEM water seals, so i don't know about the pineapple ones, but the OE water seals will actually put up with quite a lot of abuse when they aren't 25 years old
good to know the FD bearings are similar to the comp. bearings, they're a good deal cheaper.
it's been a while since I've researched the oil pressure regulators... but I thought I read a while ago that you shouldn't run an FD one because it's too high. racing beat says it wears out the oil pump? can I swap to an FD oil pump?
Currently I have a racing beat "street" 85? psi regulator in it but I wouldn't mind running higher if it's reliable...
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,189
Likes: 18
From: Woodbine, MD
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,576
Likes: 27
From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,576
Likes: 27
From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
The higher pressure does wear the shaft and keys in the oil pump sooner....but if you're not expecting 75k+ miles out of it then it doesn't really matter because you'll be back in there before any significant slack develops regardless.
ahh ... and, yes, the hat of student still fits quote well. thanks, RR.
You have a ton of decisions that could be made once your TII engine croaks - namely:
0) Replace rotary with V8? **** NO!
1) apex seals - stock or aftermarket (ALS, Goopy, ceramic (unlikely), NRS, RA...)
2) e-shaft - "upgrade" to RX8 shaft (cheap and tapered to prevent aft bearing contact)
3) Stat gears/ main bearings - upgrade to RX8 3-window? Yes (FD=$$$$)
4) Rotor bearings - replace? (typically no point)
5) Thrust (Torrington) bearings - upgrade to FD/RX8 oversize?
6) Oil pressure regulator - "upgrade" to FD? (I say 110+ psi OP is too high and provides no benefits vs 85-90psi)
7) rotor selection - S4/S5 N/A or stock?
8) rotor housings (see above)
9) side housings - upgrade to stronger frt & rr due to beefy dowel pin holes? porting? if reusing old, lapping, renitride, WPC?
10) New clutch? rebuild tranny?
11) etc - crank trigger? replace engine oil cooler and MOP lines? AI? new turbo?$$$$$, yadda yadda
As Morpheus says: "Welcome to the real world."
This is just off the top of my head, I'm sure I've forgotten plenty. And you thought it was only an apex seal. Think of it as an opportunity.
This is why killing a motor is a PITA and such a high dollar proposition.
0) Replace rotary with V8? **** NO!
1) apex seals - stock or aftermarket (ALS, Goopy, ceramic (unlikely), NRS, RA...)
2) e-shaft - "upgrade" to RX8 shaft (cheap and tapered to prevent aft bearing contact)
3) Stat gears/ main bearings - upgrade to RX8 3-window? Yes (FD=$$$$)
4) Rotor bearings - replace? (typically no point)
5) Thrust (Torrington) bearings - upgrade to FD/RX8 oversize?
6) Oil pressure regulator - "upgrade" to FD? (I say 110+ psi OP is too high and provides no benefits vs 85-90psi)
7) rotor selection - S4/S5 N/A or stock?
8) rotor housings (see above)
9) side housings - upgrade to stronger frt & rr due to beefy dowel pin holes? porting? if reusing old, lapping, renitride, WPC?
10) New clutch? rebuild tranny?
11) etc - crank trigger? replace engine oil cooler and MOP lines? AI? new turbo?$$$$$, yadda yadda
As Morpheus says: "Welcome to the real world."
This is just off the top of my head, I'm sure I've forgotten plenty. And you thought it was only an apex seal. Think of it as an opportunity.
This is why killing a motor is a PITA and such a high dollar proposition.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,189
Likes: 18
From: Woodbine, MD
for anyone who's interested here are the pictures of the housings:
Damage wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it was going to be, but it's still not usable:
the other housing looks completely fine, so I'm just going to use it and 1 new housing probably:
My irons do look like this though.... is that normal/will it clean off? Should I be concerned?
Damage wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it was going to be, but it's still not usable:
the other housing looks completely fine, so I'm just going to use it and 1 new housing probably:
My irons do look like this though.... is that normal/will it clean off? Should I be concerned?
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,576
Likes: 27
From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
Normal. No need to try and clean it off, if you do take some LIGHT sandpaper (320+) and wetsand with a solvent like mineral spirits and a broad sanding block.
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