lax-rotor

iTrader: (1)

I bled my cluctch today, but I noticed there's alot of sediment chillen in the resivior. First off is that going to be a problem? Second if it is, what's the best way to remove that sediment?

Also I still have a dead pedal for about 1.5" before the clutch starts to engage and disengage. would that just mean I need to adjust the clutch pedal?

NZConvertible

You should've removed the sediment while bleeding it. Open the bleeder, pump the clutch until the reservior is completely empty and you're sucking air, wipe it out with a rag, refill and bleed.

lax-rotor

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I did that, but I still see more. Is there a more complete way to clear the sediment? Compressed air? or is there only take a rag and wipe it out?

(side note I fixed the pedal play and reduced it down to about .25"-.5")

rodney87

Is this sediment floating in the fluid or on the side? Take a turkey baster and suck it out.

NZConvertible

So if you completely drained the old fluid, and then thoroughly wiped out the reservior, and then refilled the system will all new fluid, how is there still sediment in it? Or didn't you do that...

lax-rotor

iTrader: (1)

Nah I did it the first time. Flushed out the system. Wiped up the sediment out of the reservior, poured new fluid in but then all this sediment that wasn't in the resevior started floating in the new stuff. Turned the clear fluid grey. Is there a way to pressurise the system to force all the fluid and sediment out of the system?

rodney87

They sell pressure bleeders, but you need a compressor and I dont know how much one would cost.

lax-rotor

iTrader: (1)

Where would i look for one? Autozone? or is it a speciality piece?

jenkin

iTrader: (2)

http://ww2.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92474
cheap and easy.....

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

What is the condition of your rubber clutch line? It's probably very nasty inside.

lax-rotor

iTrader: (1)

Exterior looks fine, I'm not sure about the entirior, I'll check come this week end. If it's gone I may upgrade to steel braided... hell... even if it's not i'll upgrade to steel braided.

lax-rotor

iTrader: (1)

So I went ahead and flushed the system 3 times through completly. The first few times I was getting about this color or darker (that's not oil!)... But since I flushed it and refilled the resivior it's crystal clear now, and when the steel braided I ordered comes I'll just flush it one last time and fill and bleed.

86TwinTurbo

yah i have that right now too and i sometimes get a dead pedal but I can pump it like 2 times and I get pressure back...it floats in the new dot3 like oil in water? Is it scum from the rubber lines? also how can i lose pressure and then regain it back..I have no leaks, I have checked, bleed it like lax did amillion times and i rebuilt both cylinders a year ago

Boostmaniac

You probably have some air on the line if you are losing pressure.

That is some nasty looking fluid. It almost looks like your clutch line is rotting.

Stainless steel braided clutch line FTW!!!

lax-rotor

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, the clutch feels so much nicer after what i did.

1) adjusted pedal free play
2) adjusted clutch engagement
3) flushed 3x
4) bled.

soon:
5) remove stupid rubber line
6) install new mazdatrix stainless steel line
7) fill/flush/bleed.

86- flush that junk out (clean as much as you can with the rag), you get a much better feel on the clutch, promise. Go and get a vaccum/bleeder pump. and just flush that resivior until it runs clean. What might be happening is that sediment in your line is giving you a sticky piston on the clutch resevior cylinder (i'm guessing on that one). but another reason for getting rid of the sediment is that the hydrolic fluid compresses the sediment instead of pushing the slave cylinder as efficiently as it would with clean fluid.