amhorach

I did search and I found the topic regarding this swap.

However, the images are not loading, and the links in the thread either:
- don't include images
- or don't load at all

The swap seems easy enough, but I was wondering if anyone has any pictures of the swap or diagrams of the connections mentioned in http://www.geocities.com/rx7_ragtop/alternator.html.

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

...

amhorach

Outstanding. Thank you very much.

And, since I'm a goober and forgot to ask, does anyone have any information/source on a pulley that will work?

Craiger

iTrader: (1)

This one is sooooo in the archives. In fact almost your exact title is the title of the thread in the archive!!!

nyc_scorpio

iTrader: (1)

FD alt to FC

nvrdone

banzaitoyota.. search ebay

nu-rx7junkie

iTrader: (1)

Easy i just did it sunday oh use the battery wire terminal from your old fc alternator if yoiu have a turbo with top mount intercooler. It give you more room to tighten the belt. And you need to make the stock alt adjusting bracket slot bigger to accept the larger bolt. Ill tell you how if you have problems the diagram is not clear i know. good luck and dont forget about the pulley.

amhorach

Which is why I noted I searched there, and also noted the pictures in that thread were not loading. Hence, I asked for pictures. Also, a source for the pulley wasn't listed there, so I asked for that too. Hell, I even admitted to being a n00b by forgetting to ask in my original post.

The archive /is/ a great place for information, and I check there before I ask questions. However, when all of the information is not there due to outdated image links or whatever, I don't think it is over the top to ask for a bit of help and clarification.

To everyone else: Thanks again for the help. With the electric fan installed on the TII, the peace of mind from installing a beefier alternator will go a long way.

nu-rx7junkie

iTrader: (1)

Take the alternator to the machine shop and have them drill a centered hole to fit the shaft. I did cost 5 bucks and i used the old alt pulley from the fc.

DriftN7

what are the benefits of an FD alternator

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

a lot more amps.

totallimmortal

how many amps? FC stockers are only 60 amps right?

Mankdrake 2661

iTrader: (8)

FD alt's are well over 100amp. Close to 120 I think.

nu-rx7junkie

iTrader: (1)

s4 fc alt is 70 amp, s5 fc is 80 and fd is 100+and i got upgraded fd alt 180amp output and its in my fc

Nick_d_TII

iTrader: (6)

I did swap in a s6 alternator from the above diagram, my problem is that it is draining my battery when the car is off?

I've searched and people say they fixed this problem, but don't show or tell how.

I'm swapping from s6 to s4 alternator, I've wired as shown in the attachement.

I also read: http://www.rx7.org/public/altxref.html

Which says to install as I have? What should I check? I have a meter, I'm just not sure how to check what I need to check?

Thanks

DaMaCCa

iTrader: (1)

Ok so i've been looking for this info for a while and now that i see the diagram im a bit stumped. I have an S4 and want to swap in the S6 alt. But, with the s4 alt it has the ignition switch labeled in pink what does that connect to on the S6 alt? Or does it not attach to the S6 alt? If it doesnt attach what does it attach to?
I see that I have to go to the battery to the B and S terminals and that the L terminal goes to my exsisting dash connection.
So all i need to know is where my existing R terminal connector goes if anywhere?

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Wrong. The FD is rated/designed 100 amp. Period. Look it up in the specs, not some thread like this one.

Any alternator can spot test for more than it's rating, but that does not mean it safe to put out many amps. If your FD tests out at 110 amps and you ask it to do that for any length of time, you will fry it. Then you will have a -0- amp alternator.

HAILERS

The *R* terminal on your series four has a black/white wire going to it. That wire will NOT be used anymore. Cap it off.

The *L* terminal on your series four has a white/black wire on it. That wire WILL be used on the series six. It'll be used on the *L* terminal of the series six.

For the *S* terminal of the series six alt, you will run a BRAND NEW wire to the series six from a constant source of batt voltage. Splice into the EGI fuse in the engine bay. Whatever source, but must be 24hrs a day batt voltage. NO switched voltage like the black/white wire you presently have on your series four.

Something like that.

uptotibet

HAILERS - As usual, you locked it down 100%. Thank you for the clarification!

uptotibet

its on my car and the voltage gauge always reads 12+ volts now. the conversion was't the "easiest", but it wasn't hard...

the machine shop handled the pulley and spacer
i bought an attachment bolt at the local NAPA
the wiring was simple with the diagram above
i heat-shrinked, taped, and attached it all like stock

then i had someone tighten the bolt while i yanked up on the alternator with two hands


its funnny... i swear the car pulls harder
it definitely starts easier and runs smoother now, especially at night... no more dim lights and garbage like that


its funny how fixing small things makes the old-classic feel like a real sports car out of nowhere

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

Hi Hailers I got an issue pertaining to this, was wondering if you could help. I installed a haltech so I don't have any of the stock wires. I got it running, but I think that there is something wrong. First of all I only get like 14.1 V. I was getting like 15V, because I didn't have the L going to the battery or dash at all. I pretty much have all of them going to the battery now, except I have S going to the ignition switch. I feel that I would get the full 14.4 volts if I had L going to the dash where it would possibly be getting a lower voltage (the correct voltage) so it would know how much it needs to charge?

I could be wrong, and or I might have my port letters mixed up. But what I need is the pin of the stock wiring harness where the "Dash" signal is coming from, so I can feed that to the alt instead of going right to the battery.

Thanks!
~Tweak

P.S. s4 gtu 1988.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

From what I can tell now, is that the "dash's" circuitry is actually in the stock ECU. O.o lol. Maybe I will just start trying resistors until I get 14.4 v.

eage8

iTrader: (9)

I'm running a Megasquirt with an S5 NA gauge cluster (that has a volt gauge instead of a boost gauge) with an FD alt and my volt gauge works fine. The Volt gauge actually just measures the Volts on the wire powering it. it doesn't depend on anything else, at least that's what I've heard.

according to the Megasquirt I'm only getting between 13.8 and 14.2V. I put a big capacitor in my ECU and that leveled the Voltage in the ECU a bit

HAILERS

The VOLT gauge gets fed from the interior fuse box on IG1.

It's a 7.5 amp fuse. That fuse gets fed from the IGNITION SWITCH. The ignition switch gets fed by a single black wire coming from the engine bay fuse box.

IF you have a CRUMMY ignition switch, it COULD possibly cause problems in volage drops etc (make up your own scenario).

Two jpsg out of the free FSM are attached.

The voltage for the stock ECU is fed directly from the Main Fuse which in turn gets fed from the EGI fuses on the engine bay fuse box.

There is one connector b/t the Main Relay and pin 3I on the ECU.

If I were concerned about voltage, I'd go to the alternator and at idle read what you get off the output terminal there. Then, if you had a series four, I'd go to the ECU and backprobe the 3I wire while still idling, and compare the results. There will be some voltage drop at the pin 3I when you compare the two.

And or also read the voltage at the SECONDARY injector wires at the ECU. NOT the primary ones because they are at work at idle and the voltage will be lower due to voltage drop at idle.

Maybe also read the volgage at the alt output terminal. THEN go to the engine bay fuse box and read the voltgage on the fwd bolt that holds the MAIN fuse in and then the aft bolt that feeds the Main Fuse. Gotta lower a plastic flap to get to the bolts. Fwd and aft side of the box.

And also compare the alt output voltage with the voltage at the POSITVE cable on the battery.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

Ok, so my idea that the alternator needs to sense what voltage is being produced in order to know how much more to make is not valid at all? Why would it go to 15+ volts when I don't have the dash wire at all? Is that the alternator working on full blast? I am not really interested in making the boost gauge work, and I can't test the power to/at the injectors at idle because the haltech has a shared positive... lol I am going to test the Volts down the power trail like you suggest.