The search for freeze out plugs begin today
pm me your address I will send you a used sensor. use versachem 999 ultra gray instead of a pan gasket. you can use it for the front cover however, you have an oil passage with an o ring and a .200 oil passage to take extra precaution with. I have an extra pan gasket I can send you as well - never use them.
Well I gotta say, it's been pretty rewarding doing all this myself.
I look forward to getting another 7 and taking the time to pull the engine and do some nice power upgrades, but nothing radical.
If i could get a second gen up to around 250hp, I think I would be happy.
I look forward to getting another 7 and taking the time to pull the engine and do some nice power upgrades, but nothing radical.
If i could get a second gen up to around 250hp, I think I would be happy.
The front seal can be had for $5 at autozone. And it's the bane of my existence because the damn thing is leaking in my car and i can't get the front bolt off. I broke a socket trying, and now that i'm in denver i have no tools to use.
Ahhh,so....Gotta quit buying those "made in China" sockets, lol...
How bad is it leaking? Are you leaving a trail of petroleum down the road? There shouldn't be that much pressure behind that sucker...
Is it time for a rebuild, j/k?
Gnome- don't forget you can print Mazdatrix's price list that contains pretty much every part you can think off, then highlight the stuff applicable to your car, and use it, instead of trying to track down everything on their "subsections with pictures"...
How bad is it leaking? Are you leaving a trail of petroleum down the road? There shouldn't be that much pressure behind that sucker...
Is it time for a rebuild, j/k?
Gnome- don't forget you can print Mazdatrix's price list that contains pretty much every part you can think off, then highlight the stuff applicable to your car, and use it, instead of trying to track down everything on their "subsections with pictures"...
Last edited by WAYNE88N/A; Jul 5, 2004 at 09:18 PM.
It was my dad's craftman's Socket and his high torque impact wrench that broke the damn thing after about 10 minutes of hammering on the front bolt.
It's also not leeking that bad, just enough that i have to add oil every once in awhile, but mostly it's the mess it makes of the engine bay that I can't stand. Also it soaks the fan belts and they tend to break from it. The leek i would say is equivalent to how much oil the engine burns with the OMP, which i don't have so i shouldn't be burning any oil.
It's also not leeking that bad, just enough that i have to add oil every once in awhile, but mostly it's the mess it makes of the engine bay that I can't stand. Also it soaks the fan belts and they tend to break from it. The leek i would say is equivalent to how much oil the engine burns with the OMP, which i don't have so i shouldn't be burning any oil.
It's not Mazdatrix that you need to worry about- it's those blooming overpaid idiots at UPS that'll screw it up for you...How did you ship it? Standard "truck"?
Did you find everything ok?
Did you find everything ok?
If ya got the cash, go with overnight or two-day delivery via fed-ex...I've had so many problems with UPS, I'll be pissed at them forever (can you guys tell I don't like UPS, lol)...
Did ya get everything ordered/ find everything OK on the Mazdatrix site? (yeh, it takes a little while to navigate around in there, but I've seen worse)
Did ya get the rest of the plug out of the front housing?
Did ya get everything ordered/ find everything OK on the Mazdatrix site? (yeh, it takes a little while to navigate around in there, but I've seen worse)
Did ya get the rest of the plug out of the front housing?
Yeah I got the rest out of the housing, still haven't located all the parts I need yet though, but I did save their full price list so i can look over it tomorrow.
So i don't really need the gaskets for the front cover and the oil pan?
So i don't really need the gaskets for the front cover and the oil pan?
No- as long as you clean the crap out of the surfaces before you apply the RTV (stock up on some acetone, that's my favorite, and I've "played" with a lot of solvents in my career), you shouldn't have a prob...Not a drop of oil has emerged from my oil pan or front cover since the rebuild, 2300 miles ago...
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,630
Likes: 3
From: NY, MA, MI, OR, TX, and now LA or AZ!
The picture of the thrust bearing you took, isn't the one you have to worry about. That one never falls out of place. It's the one *behind* that plate, that falls. The spacer goes through that plate, and on the other side the second bearing sits, the first one never falls because there's always the bearing for it to sit on, even if it moves back and forth, it's still supported by the bearing. To check the other one you'd have to remove the oil chain/pump sprocket and the counterweight, and the CAS/omp gear, then you could pull the first bearing out, and then slide the spacer out, then look in the hole and see if the bearing has fallen down and is resting on the e-shaft, or if you can't see anything (this is good, since it's in place and you're just seeing through the hole in it's center).
I was thinking, SonicRat (yeh, I know, thinking usually gets me in trouble), if he doesn't want to pull everything, can't he do a quick e-shaft "play" check once he gets the front bolt back in? If he has absolutely no play, then we gotta start worrying about the bearing (yeh, the rear one)...And if he gets the usual "clunk, clunk" while pulling & pushing on the front bolt area of the e-shaft (with the clutch still engaged), he should be OK, right? Don't really need to get the dial indicator out, he didn't do a rebuild, just needs to make sure there's some play there, right?
Think it'll work?
Think it'll work?
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,630
Likes: 3
From: NY, MA, MI, OR, TX, and now LA or AZ!
You'd have to release the clutch to check that, but that's exactly how I check after reassembly. Just get the bolt in and tightened to about 20ft-lb's, then let the clutch out and see if there's any play. You can't check with the clutch in because it's got too much pressure pushing the e-shaft forward to overcome by pushing against it, so it won't move.
I'm kinda with you, Mr Gadget, but we're trying to leave the options open for Gnome, and because of all the discussions for & against getting back to that bearing, we're probably confusing him...That's why I said a bunch of posts ago to just go with SonicRat's way of doing it, that way he could continue on without worrying about what to do...
Of course, now he's got to wait on parts, so....
Of course, now he's got to wait on parts, so....


